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Vta Dump valve idling problem

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Old Dec 30, 2007 | 05:11 PM
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Default Vta Dump valve idling problem

Hi guys, does anyone know why a bailey vta dump valve would cause idling and erratic running problems on a 07 wrx?

I had it fitted on a 03 wrx for circa 15k with no problems at all.

Thanks in advance-jimmy
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Old Dec 30, 2007 | 10:22 PM
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Anyone?
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Old Dec 30, 2007 | 10:35 PM
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too weak a spring so is open on idle
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Old Dec 31, 2007 | 02:01 AM
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Hmm Im having similar probs with my forge d/v. Erratic revs/idle speed. Maybe you can have it serviced - clean it out & regrease it. I think Im going back to standard its less headache.

Good luck
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Old Dec 31, 2007 | 08:41 AM
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Get a twin piston DV.. Generally not as loud but it wont be open at idle.
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Old Dec 31, 2007 | 10:07 AM
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I thought the Forge newage DV was twin piston?

Steve
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Old Jan 1, 2008 | 11:57 AM
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Thanks, but any ideas why this would have been working fine when removed, and then not when re-fitted a month later?

Could it be something to do with the difference between the 07 and 03 wrx's?
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Old Jan 1, 2008 | 12:25 PM
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Why does the standard DV cure the problem? What is so different about the standard DV compared to others, the Forge for example, is it it's spring rate?
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Old Jan 1, 2008 | 03:34 PM
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As above you need to get one that has a stronger spring to stop it from opening at idle. Not sure if you can get stronger springs for the Baileys DV's but i know forge do interchangeable springs for thier DV's
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Old Jan 1, 2008 | 04:08 PM
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Default Dump valve

Hi guys,
I'm about to fit a Baily DV 12 dump valve to my 03 WRX, the car has been tweaked, exhaust, VF34 turbo, larger topmount intercooler, fuel pump and is running 329 BHP. Is it as straight-forward as it appears and will the car be much more responsive thru the gears?
Regards
trev
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Old Jan 1, 2008 | 04:44 PM
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No change except noisier !
I like it !
Many don't !
Not needed !

DunxC
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Old Jan 1, 2008 | 05:13 PM
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Same as above really.
I had one fitted on an 03 wrx and they do sound good (although tastes vary), but i did notice a difference in fuel consumption when i fitted it, and again when i took it off.
Very straight forward to fit less than 15 mins, but the return pipe is dificult to refit when putting back to standard if I remember correctly.
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Old Jan 1, 2008 | 05:55 PM
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So let me get this straight..if I have idling probs since fitting my forge dv, o does it mean that the spring is weak? the dv appears to be open on idle.

So Im left with the choice of contacting forge for a new spring (cost?) or buya new baileys dv or just go back to standard. What you guys reckon?

Sorry to jack the thread!
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Old Jan 1, 2008 | 09:53 PM
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No probs mate.

Where do u live?
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Old Jan 1, 2008 | 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by serpico
So let me get this straight..if I have idling probs since fitting my forge dv, o does it mean that the spring is weak? the dv appears to be open on idle.

So Im left with the choice of contacting forge for a new spring (cost?) or buya new baileys dv or just go back to standard. What you guys reckon?

Sorry to jack the thread!
the forge ones contain a spring and a shim, open it up and match a metal washer to shim size to add tension to spring, about size of an old 10p iirc.
or the spring kit is about 20notes
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Old Jan 1, 2008 | 10:27 PM
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A little info on Forge DV's

"Now you can fine tune your Blow Off/Diverter Valve to the exact needs of your engine with this complete tuning kit.

Your valve tuning kit you will find four springs and three spacers.

The strongest spring is the red, followed by the blue, yellow and finally the green which is the weakest. The spacers enable you to fine tune the settings between two spring tensions if required.

We normally supply our valves, unless requested differently, with a spring that will match the tension of the manufacturer’s original fitment valve. However, as many owners undertake tuning modifications some may wish to re-tune the valve characteristics to suit a given application.

If you are finding that the valve is dumping more than required or you are loosing boost pressure it is normally an indication that a stronger spring is required. Conversely if the valve is failing to dump it may be necessary to install a weaker spring. If during this tuning of your valve you are faced for example with the red spring being to strong and the blue spring to weak, you can add the spacers to the blue spring to increase the tension by small increments, thus achieving a setting between the red and blue springs.
Valve Spring color coding
Green - 5-15 PSI
Yellow - 15-23 PSI
Blue - 23-30 PSI
Red - 30 + PSI
The above figures are estimates only and should only be considered as a guideline

Please note - fitting a stronger spring into a valve will not increase boost pressure unless existing pressure is being lost. Failure to allow the valve to operate by installing a spring which is to strong may cause damage to the turbocharger.

Please Note:
The quoted spring pressure (Psi) relates to the un-assisted clamping force of the spring and should NOT be taken as an equivalent to boost pressure when determining suitability. Once a valve is fitted to a car it is subjected to various pressures that act upon the diaphragm or piston to aid its respective ability to seal or hold boost. An example of this, would be when using a FMCL007P valve on a 1.8T engine as found in the TT 225hp. The boost pressure on a "chipped" car can peak at 26psi. The recommended spring would be the Green or Yellow "
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