do different turbos and FMIC's increase bhp?
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do different turbos and FMIC's increase bhp?
As the title states does a straight swap for an uprated turbo and FMIC increase bhp or do you only swap them to accomodate bigger power?
Tom
Tom
#2
Tom - I being kind here
I don't know where to start, please search and read up on modifications and upgrades, you seem to be starting from VERY little technical back ground.
Yes different turbos can give / do give more power, but they need supporting kit, like fuel system, exhaust system, induction and engine & turbo management. All these things affect each other and the power and characteristics of the engine (along with valve timing compresson ratio and other engine specifications)
A FMIC gives better cooling of the compressed air from the turbo, which increases the charge (inlet air) density and therefore more power as long as you have enough fuel with that.
But the IC info is detail, i think you need to get a handle on back ground engine information
I don't know where to start, please search and read up on modifications and upgrades, you seem to be starting from VERY little technical back ground.
Yes different turbos can give / do give more power, but they need supporting kit, like fuel system, exhaust system, induction and engine & turbo management. All these things affect each other and the power and characteristics of the engine (along with valve timing compresson ratio and other engine specifications)
A FMIC gives better cooling of the compressed air from the turbo, which increases the charge (inlet air) density and therefore more power as long as you have enough fuel with that.
But the IC info is detail, i think you need to get a handle on back ground engine information
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thanks for that i was quite up to scratch with tuning NA vauxhall engines but never really had much experience with turbo engines. i personally wouldnt dream of undertaking any mods myself as this my car is worth to much to me to f*ck something up!!
i would always take my car to a specialist to fit new products as mentioned above hence why i just need to know the basics hehe
thanks again
i would always take my car to a specialist to fit new products as mentioned above hence why i just need to know the basics hehe
thanks again
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i get ya, i jumped from vauxhalls to scoobs a few years back, its a whole different ball game.
unlike vx's you can't use generic maps without risking the engine, despite what people may claim, so remap will be best part of a grand, although you'll get hundred or so quid chenge.
and the list of costs goes on, but you get the gist
unlike vx's you can't use generic maps without risking the engine, despite what people may claim, so remap will be best part of a grand, although you'll get hundred or so quid chenge.
and the list of costs goes on, but you get the gist
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The bigger the turbo, the bigger the power potential. But, the bigger you go, the more lag you introduce. Also consider the cost, as you don't simply bolt a new turbo on and hope for the best.
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i get ya, i jumped from vauxhalls to scoobs a few years back, its a whole different ball game.
unlike vx's you can't use generic maps without risking the engine, despite what people may claim, so remap will be best part of a grand, although you'll get hundred or so quid chenge.
and the list of costs goes on, but you get the gist
unlike vx's you can't use generic maps without risking the engine, despite what people may claim, so remap will be best part of a grand, although you'll get hundred or so quid chenge.
and the list of costs goes on, but you get the gist
How much??
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As in name a tuner that does remaps that says you don't????
A remap is the 'right' thing to do, but depending on what you do, not always necesary...I've dyno'd mine running 50% more boost than stock (using a bleed) and the AFR's and ignition are 'safe' - although they may not be optimum, the knock activity looks 'right'.
Simon
A remap is the 'right' thing to do, but depending on what you do, not always necesary...I've dyno'd mine running 50% more boost than stock (using a bleed) and the AFR's and ignition are 'safe' - although they may not be optimum, the knock activity looks 'right'.
Simon
#15
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As in name a tuner that does remaps that says you don't????
A remap is the 'right' thing to do, but depending on what you do, not always necesary...I've dyno'd mine running 50% more boost than stock (using a bleed) and the AFR's and ignition are 'safe' - although they may not be optimum, the knock activity looks 'right'.
Simon
A remap is the 'right' thing to do, but depending on what you do, not always necesary...I've dyno'd mine running 50% more boost than stock (using a bleed) and the AFR's and ignition are 'safe' - although they may not be optimum, the knock activity looks 'right'.
Simon
more boost maybe, i'm talking about a whole diffferent turbo
also a mates just bought a car, it had a boost valve on it, had it dyno'd to check it out and make sure running safe, it was runnin 20psi and lean
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yep great start,it will then put a smile on your face for a couple of weeks
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and how have you adjusted your fuelling to accomodate the bigger turbo? because if you have just bolted a bigger turbo on it will be sucking in a lot more air and witout extra fuel will be running lean towards the top end.It wont last for long unless you drive it gently
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plus you need to start worrying about other parts when you start goin for bigger power,standard pistons,rods,gearboxes,clutches etc dont seem to like much over 300 bhp/lbft when used in anger,just depends on your starting point with the car,UK or JDM WRX/STI
#23
PPP exhaust is very capable up to at least 380bhp (as well as being MOT friendly and sounding good).
At this level, a high flow panel filter would be cheaper and easier than an induction kit.
Don't change the standard dump valve (almost every mapper I have spoken to, says the OE one is best and others just cause more hassles than they are worth).
I spent less than half the money you are planning to spend, on a high flow panel filter, one stage colder plugs (PRF7B's) and a 3 port boost solenoid and after a remap from Bob Rawle walked away with 354bhp and 348lb.ft.
The car is such a massive improvement over the standard PPP vehicle now.
Anyway have a think about it, read up some more. Just trying to save you some cash mate.
#24
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Not trying to have a go, but why? (genuine question)
PPP exhaust is very capable up to at least 380bhp (as well as being MOT friendly and sounding good).
At this level, a high flow panel filter would be cheaper and easier than an induction kit.
Don't change the standard dump valve (almost every mapper I have spoken to, says the OE one is best and others just cause more hassles than they are worth).
I spent less than half the money you are planning to spend, on a high flow panel filter, one stage colder plugs (PRF7B's) and a 3 port boost solenoid and after a remap from Bob Rawle walked away with 354bhp and 348lb.ft.
The car is such a massive improvement over the standard PPP vehicle now.
Anyway have a think about it, read up some more. Just trying to save you some cash mate.
PPP exhaust is very capable up to at least 380bhp (as well as being MOT friendly and sounding good).
At this level, a high flow panel filter would be cheaper and easier than an induction kit.
Don't change the standard dump valve (almost every mapper I have spoken to, says the OE one is best and others just cause more hassles than they are worth).
I spent less than half the money you are planning to spend, on a high flow panel filter, one stage colder plugs (PRF7B's) and a 3 port boost solenoid and after a remap from Bob Rawle walked away with 354bhp and 348lb.ft.
The car is such a massive improvement over the standard PPP vehicle now.
Anyway have a think about it, read up some more. Just trying to save you some cash mate.
the figures the delta dash give are higher than a RR read out, i know acar that ran 365 on delta dash but then on the rollers 340 so 25bhp up, so goin gon similar figures the yours is prob nearer 330
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Well, the guy who bought my old car (sti 4) spent the best part of 3.5K on a new 20g, front mount and all the gear to go with it. It was re-mapped by a very very very well known tuner on here. Within 1000 miles, the bottom end went. Goes to show, a remap won't neccessarally make your engine bullet proof!
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Well, the guy who bought my old car (sti 4) spent the best part of 3.5K on a new 20g, front mount and all the gear to go with it. It was re-mapped by a very very very well known tuner on here. Within 1000 miles, the bottom end went. Goes to show, a remap won't neccessarally make your engine bullet proof!
Would it have lasted a thousand miles without one though?
#27
Even so, I can't see his car making more than a few extra HP above mine for twice the cash. I can't see any point in changing the PPP exhaust to the H&S unless he is planning to go for much higher power in the future. Would be better off spending the extra £1K on some whiteline suspension bits, a knocklink and still have £200 change. Just my opinion of course.
#29
Not by enough to make a H&S decat system worth the money in this instance IMO. The PPP cat is considered to have very good flow and be one of the best available. If you really wanted to offset the minimal lag from the cat, you could always get the OE headers ported and wrapped for around £250, which would more than compensate.