Menace

Hey guys,i`m haveing trouble with my boost,i have this adjustable in the bay



And i`ve been told to adjust it to suit my driveing,i have only adjusted it twice,but it doesnt feel right.At high end throttle,it makes a gurgle type sound before boostin also,the needle on my boost gage fliks hard over to the right


Am i doing some thing wrong or could it be something simple like a faulty spark plug causeing a miss fire

Thanks guys

bowsaaa

Sounds to me like its overboosting & the ecu is cutting the ignition to save your engine. The inline bleed valve you have are real crude & not well suited to any jap engines, more of an rs turbo type mod

slipstream_uk

iTrader: (1)

The bleed valve is very crude, if you want to stay on the cheap side, remove the bleed valve you got and replace it with a Dawes (a genuine one), then drill out the hole to 1.5mm. If you got money to spare go for an boost control kit, like Apexi or HKS.

After saying all that, I had the Dawes on my jdm for 6 weeks with no problems.

Menace

Thanks for the replies guys ,i agree the valve is abit pants,would i be better off getting rid of that valve like you say,and replace it with an in car controll kit,or something along those lines??

Thanks guys

Adam

slipstream_uk

iTrader: (1)

Yes bin the cheap valve soon as possible. Its all down to how deep your pockets are, But for a piece of mind go for a quality in-car control kit.

Dont run silly boost levels, more specs needed about your car. But dont run more than 1.1 bar, without further mods to support it.

Menace

Thnks slipstream What sort of specs you looking for fella??

At lts last rolling road trip,it was pushing around the 280bhp.Its had the Cat taken off aswell so the exhaust size you see is a straight through to bak box.



Adam

slipstream_uk

iTrader: (1)

I guess youve got a classic wrx or sti there.
You said decat, I take it its the downpipe one. Have you changed the panel filter to a performance one ? If have I would start looking at high flow fuel pump before you start running lean at higher revs and playing with boost levels.

Menace

Thanks again slipstream,man i love this site Not to sure about the panel filter,would that be the slanty metal one that the bonnet scoop flows into??(i know,proper novice question )


The matal one is abit battered as you can see from the rubber guider on the under side of the bonnet,how deep would i have to dig for a replacement one??

myblackwrx

iTrader: (1)

The slanty thing is your intercooler the filter is the large item on the right of your picture.

green un

left of piccy

slipstream_uk

iTrader: (1)

A = AIRFILTER
B = MAF SENSOR
C = BOOST SOLENOID
D = TOP MOUNT INTERCOOLER
E = TURBO

slipstream_uk

iTrader: (1)

From your pic your standard airfilter box has been replaced with an aftermarket performance airfilter. If you have still got the standard box, put it back on with a performance panel air filter. I only recommend bolt on airfilters if your using front mount intercoolers as the airbox needs to removed for pipework


Another tip, if you didnt know leave the blanking plates ON the small bonnet vents. It will let water into the airfilter and screw your maf up, if removed. Meaning new maf needed.
Plus the blanking vents OFF causes the warm air not to escape from engine properly

mickywrx

iTrader: (29)

"E" is wrong mate, turbo's further back It's still got that funnel thing attached.

slipstream_uk

iTrader: (1)

oops

Menace

Thanks alot guys,much appreciated

myblackwrx

iTrader: (1)

bugger