AdamCrank

Hello all, had a really bad day today.

I just nipped to the petrol station on my break at work, filled up with petrol and the car wouldnt re-start.

Couldnt get it going so phoned up the RAC - bloke said the battery was knackered, one of the worst hes seen for a while and probably the original battery ( cars a MY99 UK Turbo - so 8 years old ).

I then took it to a garage and had a new battery fitted - I did this straight away as he couldnt guarantee the car would start again after switching the engine off.

New battery fitted - car starts / runs sweet. I drive home and upon pulling into my driveway i notice the engine is hunting - anything from 1200 rpms to 400 rpms - the car doesnt stall at all and runs excellent but its started this hunting all of a sudden.

Whats caused this sudden problem? All ive done is change the battery for a new one - and the bloke said it was the correct battery for the car.

Anyone any ideas as im getting fed up with the whole thing and ive had a ****ty day to boot.

Any help would be appreciated, sorry for the long post.

Adam

mark28

it sounds to me like a mass air flow sensor fault. this would my first point off call...

AdamCrank

All I did was swap the battery - i didnt touch anything on the engine so why the sudden problem?

Adam

dan83590

I would think the MAF would be the problem also, they don't seem to like the power being disconnected on the 99's for some reason.

PtePyle

I changed the battery on my old MY00 UK Turbo earlier this year and it did exactly the same. Changed the MAF after reading posts on here and that fixed it!

AdamCrank

How much are these Mass Air Flow sensors? And is it a complete thing that i need or just a particular part?

Suppose a subaru garage is the only place to get one quickly?

Lastly if i need to order one of these things, am i safe using the car? - seeing how it runs perfectly well ( apart from the hunting at idle ).

Adam

Powerstation

Yup it does point toward the MAF sensor.
We can soon confirm it on the diagnostics either way.
£75 + vat from us.

Driving it normally would be prudent until it's sorted


Andy

badgerface123

hi i just bought a maf for my 99 £75+vat from subaru dealers but didnt sort my prob so if u want ill sell u my old one as its perfectly fine

AdamCrank

Hi all, thanks for the help so far.

If the MY99 MAF's are a bit dodgy - is their a more reliable alternative? Perhaps one from a newer car?

Adam

mark28

if you run a standard air inlet i would stick with the oe item, can change to othere make if you run a after market ecu

mark
p.s sorry for slow posts but i'm in the car on the way to france

AdamCrank

Hia mate, i run the standard airbox with improved panel filter as id been told an aftermarket could upset the car.

I suppose most Subaru dealers have these things in stock constantly? Would i be able to take the car to my nearest subaru dealer and ask them to temporarily fir the sensor to see if it solves the problem - or do they not like doing that? Would they rather just take your money.

Dont worry about slow posting mate - im not gonna use the car again till the morning anyway.

Adam

mark28

if it was me i would cheak that the air filter is a oil fee (dry) type filter. some air filters are oiled..

if the filter is oiled then it can sometimes can contaminate the maf sensor

AdamCrank

OK mate, ill have a look at the filter - although im sure its not this as the current panel filter's been on the car about 8 months and this is the first time ive had problems with the car.

Anyone know the closest Subaru Parts dealer to Warrington? Used to be one in Northwich but not sure its still there or not.

Thanks

Adam

Fuzz

Map Locator | Subaru (UK) Ltd.

Jolly Green Monster

iTrader: (4)

the reason it is most likely the maf sensor is that the ecu learns to the failing maf sensor and adapts as it fails slowly.. then you disconnected the battery long enough for the ecu to forget it's settings and therefore run with the classic failed maf sensor sympthoms on the new battery..

AdamCrank

Got you now mate - thanks for all the help chaps.

Im off to Northwich this morning to get a new one.

Thanks

Adam

AdamCrank

Christopher Neil didnt have one in stock - then they tried to fob me off saying i needed to buy the full unit - £160's worth stating that "my model of car needs the complete unit and not just the sensor" !!!

Anyway ive sent a few pm's to try to get one off here for a reasonable price.

Powerstation - youve got PM

Thanks

Adam

Brun

What they said at Christopher Neil is complete ****e. Haven't looked at all the posts in this thread but just incase anyone hasn't said it - don't gun your car till the maf is sorted as it's possible that your £75 bill may turn into a £3k one

Fuzz

Will nudge someone about that on Monday then.
Would probably be better to call though.
01684 296675.


Andy

AdamCrank

Hia mate, thanks for that.

I'll give them a shout on Monday then and see if i can get one sorted. Any idea how long delivery takes on one of these?

And are they relatively easy to fit?

Looks like ill be leaving my car at home for a few days next week so i dont cause any damage to the car.

Adam

[Davey]

lol I loooooove the way the MAF sensor is blamed for everything

Check the earth cables.

Fuzz

Driven sensibly it will be fine, by that I mean off boost.

to remove is easy, pull off wiring plug and undo two screws.

As I stated earlier though and also the last poster comes back to it but on a different tack.
You should get it checked to confirm it IS definitely the MAF before spending £75 quid!


Andy

Zola-the-master

[Davey] I agree, But i think that you'll find that this one is genuine. I had exactly the same problem with my year 2000. The clinic did explain why disconnecting the battery (or going flat) causes this problem but TBH i anit got time to put it in to text.

Fuzz

JGM already explained it so no nee to Zola.

Zola-the-master

Oh yeah... Must have missed that one

AdamCrank

OK, well what sort of places could i take the car to have it checked over - and to make sure its definately the MAF sensor?

Im not sure its something your average garage would have a clue about!!

Adam

Zola-the-master

You could try reading your fault codes but it might not show up but its a start,



Read Memory Mode

• Ensure ignition switched OFF
• Connect Engine Diagnostic Link connectors (Black)
• Switch ignition ON, DO NOT start engine
• Check that CEL illuminates
• Count CEL flashes
• Troubles codes are indicated as follows
• Long flashes indicate the ‘tens’ of the trouble code
• Short flashes indicate the ‘units’ of the trouble code
• A short pause separates each flash
• A long pause separates each trouble code
• Switch ignition OFF
• Disconnect engine diagnostic link connectors (black)

Dynamic Check Mode

• Engine at normal operating temperature
• Ensure ignition switched OFF
• Connect engine diagnostic link connectors (Green)
• Switch ignition ON. DO NOT start engine
• Check CEL illuminates
• Start engine
• If CEL does not flash: Drive vehicle for 1 minute minimum at 7mph minimum
• Increase engine speed to 2000rpm minimum for 1 minute minimum
• Count CEL flashes
• Troubles codes are indicated as follows
• Long flashes indicate the ‘tens’ of the trouble code
• Short flashes indicate the ‘units’ of the trouble code
• A short pause separates each flash
• A long pause separates each trouble code
• Switch ignition OFF
• Disconnect engine diagnostic link connectors (Green)
• The ECM fault memory can also be checked using suitable diagnostic equipment connected to the data link connector (Yellow)

Erasing Trouble Codes

• Engine at normal operating temperature
• Ensure ignition switched OFF
• Connect engine diagnostic link connectors (Green and Black)
• Switch ignition ON. DO NOT start engine
• Check the CEL illuminates
• Start Engine
• Drive vehicle for 1 minute minimum at 7mph minimum
• Increase engine speed to 2000rpm for 1 minute minimum
• Check that CEL flashes: Code 11111. No fault found
• Switch ignition OFF
• Disconnect engine diagnostic link connectors (Green and Black)


Trouble Code Identification


Trouble Code - Fault Location
11111 - No Fault Found
11 - Crankshaft Position Sensor
12 - Starter Switch
14 - Injector 1
15 - Injector 2
16 - Injector 3
17 - Injector 4
21 - Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
23 - Mass Air Flow Sensor
24 - Idle Air Control Valve
31 - Throttle Position Sensor
32 - Heated Oxygen Sensor
33 - Vehicle Speed Sensor
35 - Evaporative Emission Canistor Purge Valve
49 - CO Adjustment resistor – If Fitted
51 - Neutral Switch (MT)




Or you could act on the advise given by other members with the same problem

Tart Man

This is exactly what the problem will most likely to be.

And be thankful...that dead battery may have saved you the cost of an premature engine rebuild

(depending on how long its been running with a semi-failing sensor and how its been driven with it in that state).

If in any doubt find a freind with a MY98 to MY00 car and swap it to see if it works

Fuzz

Find an ecutek dealer or someone with access to the diagnostics port, either with deltadash (ecutek) or the Select monitor (Subaru) May be others as well but not so sure,

Reading fault codes wont tell you a thing unless it completely fails.

Someone worth their salt will be able to see what "load" it's reading and tell you whether it's FUBAR or not.

tarmac terror

iTrader: (2)

I had a similar set of symptoms caused when I disconnected my -ve terminal when implementing the earth mod on my MY00. It was my Lamdba sensor that was toast, but the symptoms were identical to your own. Car hunting for idle between 0 and 1500 RPM