Am I getting ripped off
#1
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Am I getting ripped off
1993 WRX JDM
After going on Prosports Charity rolling road day and being the slowest scooby there with a drastic 190bhp ... being told it didn't even seem to be boosting up) Ive been trying to get them to look into the problem for weeks but no success so desperately I decided to take my underpowered Scooby to a Stockport based well known race car tuning company who have a 4 wheel rolling road.
After a couple of hours diagnostic and now only putting out around 120bhp, I've been told its probably the Turbo is knackered ... however to reach this assumption its costing £125 per hour and took them 1.5 hours so with VAT now spent £220
When I bought the car about 6 months ago I was told it had a TD05 fitted ... but to be honest the guys told me a few things it was suppose to have and didn;t so might be Billy Bull ..
Anyway 1st does £220 sound a lot to suss out it might be the Turbo ... or should they be telling me it is definately the Turbo for that amount.
And is changing a Turbo a DIY job or should I pay someone to fit..
Also if it had a TD04 and I go up to a TD05 will I need to upgrade anything else ...
Also I have seen people selling Turbos second hand ... do I need a Snorkel Type or Front mount type as a direct replacement.
any advice appreciated.
Regards
Paul
After going on Prosports Charity rolling road day and being the slowest scooby there with a drastic 190bhp ... being told it didn't even seem to be boosting up) Ive been trying to get them to look into the problem for weeks but no success so desperately I decided to take my underpowered Scooby to a Stockport based well known race car tuning company who have a 4 wheel rolling road.
After a couple of hours diagnostic and now only putting out around 120bhp, I've been told its probably the Turbo is knackered ... however to reach this assumption its costing £125 per hour and took them 1.5 hours so with VAT now spent £220
When I bought the car about 6 months ago I was told it had a TD05 fitted ... but to be honest the guys told me a few things it was suppose to have and didn;t so might be Billy Bull ..
Anyway 1st does £220 sound a lot to suss out it might be the Turbo ... or should they be telling me it is definately the Turbo for that amount.
And is changing a Turbo a DIY job or should I pay someone to fit..
Also if it had a TD04 and I go up to a TD05 will I need to upgrade anything else ...
Also I have seen people selling Turbos second hand ... do I need a Snorkel Type or Front mount type as a direct replacement.
any advice appreciated.
Regards
Paul
#2
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that is a hell of a lot of money for a maybe diagnosis, come to think about it, it is a lot of money full stop. they are ripping you off mate.
personally i would get someone to fit it professionally, because afterwards if you upgrade from td04 to td05 then it will need to be remapped as soon as possible, regards which type of turbo snorkel or front mount im not sure what you mean, but im sure someone else will be able to help you on that question
personally i would get someone to fit it professionally, because afterwards if you upgrade from td04 to td05 then it will need to be remapped as soon as possible, regards which type of turbo snorkel or front mount im not sure what you mean, but im sure someone else will be able to help you on that question
#3
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fecking hell that's a lot of money.
you are more likely to have a Td05 fitted (although my 93 wrx had a vf 12 from a Legacy).
The turbo will have a 90 degree bend at the front.
I know this doesn't help your current situation but i had a look at your scooby and it may be worth checking out www.polarperfromance.co.uk they may help with your alleged turbo problem.
you are more likely to have a Td05 fitted (although my 93 wrx had a vf 12 from a Legacy).
The turbo will have a 90 degree bend at the front.
I know this doesn't help your current situation but i had a look at your scooby and it may be worth checking out www.polarperfromance.co.uk they may help with your alleged turbo problem.
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has anybody ever thought that it may be in limp home mode and hence only giving 1/2 boost.
I have seen other cars hit around 170-190BHP in this mode.
Do you know what boost it's hitting and if any faults have been logged (see my website for FAQ and method of reading faults).
a boost gauge will only cost you about £20 off fleabay and if it's hitting 7psi/0.6bar (ish) then it looks to be in limp.
faults are not always logged, especially if it's a MAF related fault causing lean running.
P.S If it s a1993 WRX Saloon it should have a TD05 as standard. If it's a WRX Wagon it should have a TD04. If it werre a UK Saloon or Wagon (which it isn't) it would have a TD05.
I have seen other cars hit around 170-190BHP in this mode.
Do you know what boost it's hitting and if any faults have been logged (see my website for FAQ and method of reading faults).
a boost gauge will only cost you about £20 off fleabay and if it's hitting 7psi/0.6bar (ish) then it looks to be in limp.
faults are not always logged, especially if it's a MAF related fault causing lean running.
P.S If it s a1993 WRX Saloon it should have a TD05 as standard. If it's a WRX Wagon it should have a TD04. If it werre a UK Saloon or Wagon (which it isn't) it would have a TD05.
Last edited by Scott.T@PolarPerformance; 15 August 2007 at 01:26 PM.
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I'm assuming £125 per hour is RR time
And for that I'd expect full diagnostics check - they should have provided you with all the answers to Scott's questions - boost, AFR etc. I's also expect to be told the problem and offered a solution
And for that I'd expect full diagnostics check - they should have provided you with all the answers to Scott's questions - boost, AFR etc. I's also expect to be told the problem and offered a solution
Last edited by Jay m A; 15 August 2007 at 01:58 PM.
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Just been to Collect it
Ouch ... well I feel like I've been had good style ..... Maybe I should have ask him how much per hour before I let him have it, but I just expected RR time to be about £80 per hour and all it needed was a tune up.
A. Jay yep RR rate
OK ... the guy definately tell me that it is not spooling up (boosting up) and therfore he suspects that it is the turbo, and before he can sort out the problem I will need that replacing..... he said after having it on the rolling road that he only got about 120bhp out.
The wife just called me as shes driving car back to say it feels even worse now than it did before I took it in ... (she drives it most of time)
A. Scott.T ... It only boosts to .5bar so maybe it has gone to limp home mode ... how do you change it back and what would cause it to go in that mode in first place.
A. Mac12 .. I have been recomended Scoobyteknix before but dont really fancy driving 60 mile to get it sorted unless I have no choice.
A. Jay yep RR rate
OK ... the guy definately tell me that it is not spooling up (boosting up) and therfore he suspects that it is the turbo, and before he can sort out the problem I will need that replacing..... he said after having it on the rolling road that he only got about 120bhp out.
The wife just called me as shes driving car back to say it feels even worse now than it did before I took it in ... (she drives it most of time)
A. Scott.T ... It only boosts to .5bar so maybe it has gone to limp home mode ... how do you change it back and what would cause it to go in that mode in first place.
A. Mac12 .. I have been recomended Scoobyteknix before but dont really fancy driving 60 mile to get it sorted unless I have no choice.
#11
As above, if its in limp home the purge solonoid stays shut so the wastegate actuator works at a fixed 0.5bar.
Similar problems can be caused if the purge solonoid is not working, or associated hoses incorrectly fitted or blocked, or the wastegate actuator itself is duff.
Similar problems can be caused if the purge solonoid is not working, or associated hoses incorrectly fitted or blocked, or the wastegate actuator itself is duff.
Last edited by Callus Man; 15 August 2007 at 02:45 PM.
#12
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Limp home mode is normally caused by the ecu detecting a fault (would light up the CEL i would have thought).
Scoobypedia | Trusted knowledge for everything Subaru | Scoobypedia browse has the reset/reading fault codes procedure on it (i think Scotts' has as well)
Scoobypedia | Trusted knowledge for everything Subaru | Scoobypedia browse has the reset/reading fault codes procedure on it (i think Scotts' has as well)
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If it's in limp the easiest way is to get it out of this mode is to disconnect the battery for 20 mins then reconnect and go for a drive.
you should feel the difference 'IF' it's come out of limp (or see the difference on a boost gauge).
However, they don't always come out of limp mode everytime or can drop straight back into it.
The Check engine light should illuminate but it doesn't always and doesn't always log a fault.
You can do an ECU reset 'electronically' and that is detailed on my website.
I have seen a MAF running lean i.e around 16AFR rather then 14.7AFR on cruise. This dropped the car into limp mode but no error was recorded.
In this particular instance the owner cleaned the MAF with carb cleaner and it was OK after that.
Details of how to do a diagnostics check are on scoobypedia but also on my Frequently Asked Questions page
you should feel the difference 'IF' it's come out of limp (or see the difference on a boost gauge).
However, they don't always come out of limp mode everytime or can drop straight back into it.
The Check engine light should illuminate but it doesn't always and doesn't always log a fault.
You can do an ECU reset 'electronically' and that is detailed on my website.
I have seen a MAF running lean i.e around 16AFR rather then 14.7AFR on cruise. This dropped the car into limp mode but no error was recorded.
In this particular instance the owner cleaned the MAF with carb cleaner and it was OK after that.
Details of how to do a diagnostics check are on scoobypedia but also on my Frequently Asked Questions page
Last edited by Scott.T@PolarPerformance; 15 August 2007 at 05:03 PM.
#14
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If you want an honest, unbias opinion from somebody who knows Subaru's then get in touch with Dan at PH Automotive in Macclesfield. He owns a scooby, services a few of the SMACS subarus and knows subaru's. He doesnt talk BS and wont charge you the earth.
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OK I have reset my ECU and the only error code its flashing up is 43 (apparently Accelerator pedal switch) what ever thats suppose to indicate?
Do I still need to do the disconect battery for 20mins Scott?
I also read that on newage you can do a quick ECU leaning sequence can this same thing be done on a classic?
Do I still need to do the disconect battery for 20mins Scott?
I also read that on newage you can do a quick ECU leaning sequence can this same thing be done on a classic?
#16
I had the same error code on mine and disconnected the battery for half hour hey presto sorted, if that fails give scoobyclinic a buzz really helpful chap that knows everything about imprezas with nearly 20 years experience in them.
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Learning is quite quick anyway....
if you did the diagnostic routing and it gave 43, then 43 may be historic.
It's probably worth a 20 min disconnect, then connect just the black connectors under the dash and turn on the ignition to see if it still flashes 4 & 3 or a constant flash.
if it's all clear, see how it drives. If it was in limp and now isn't then you should feel the difference.
if you did the diagnostic routing and it gave 43, then 43 may be historic.
It's probably worth a 20 min disconnect, then connect just the black connectors under the dash and turn on the ignition to see if it still flashes 4 & 3 or a constant flash.
if it's all clear, see how it drives. If it was in limp and now isn't then you should feel the difference.
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OK ... well done the 20 min disconect and no gain, been for run and no difference still only boosting to .6 ... However it certainly doesnt seem as bad as the wife was saying to me earlier so might have sorted somthing...
what I dont understand is that if its supposedly not boosting up or the Turbo isn't working then why when I excellerate and then change through the gears can I here it dump the pressure ??? and why is it still quick I mean I can still get it upto 120+ .....
Ive not had scoobys before .. but have had GTO Twin Tub and R34 Skyline ... and as the scoob is now it seems respectable ... I mean the way I feel at the moment is if I do finally get to the goal of 1bar ... boy will it be fast
So maybe I should look to the Actuator?
Or better still 500 has offered to take a look see and has a tub spare
I suppose it could be impellas on the turbo are slightly damaged and as such just cant raach max... Or maybe the guy that owned it was a cowboy and somethings show me he might have been ... so it might be somthing really simple ... but for £220 from a proffesional Mechanic you'd think would have pin pointed exactly what it was
what I dont understand is that if its supposedly not boosting up or the Turbo isn't working then why when I excellerate and then change through the gears can I here it dump the pressure ??? and why is it still quick I mean I can still get it upto 120+ .....
Ive not had scoobys before .. but have had GTO Twin Tub and R34 Skyline ... and as the scoob is now it seems respectable ... I mean the way I feel at the moment is if I do finally get to the goal of 1bar ... boy will it be fast
So maybe I should look to the Actuator?
Or better still 500 has offered to take a look see and has a tub spare
I suppose it could be impellas on the turbo are slightly damaged and as such just cant raach max... Or maybe the guy that owned it was a cowboy and somethings show me he might have been ... so it might be somthing really simple ... but for £220 from a proffesional Mechanic you'd think would have pin pointed exactly what it was
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If it's running 0.6bar chances are it's in limp and the boost control solenoid will be closed and only allow actuator pressure which is around 0.6bar.
Or the Boost control solenoid is stuck/failed. Does this start to click when you raise the rpm off idle ?
Or the boost control plumbing has been messed with due to a previous owner playing.........
photo below shows you how it should be plumbed :
If the above looks OK, then I would get the AFR checked to make sure it's not running lean and dropping into limp mode for safety. As mentioned above, I have seen this and it shows no errors.
Or the Boost control solenoid is stuck/failed. Does this start to click when you raise the rpm off idle ?
Or the boost control plumbing has been messed with due to a previous owner playing.........
photo below shows you how it should be plumbed :
If the above looks OK, then I would get the AFR checked to make sure it's not running lean and dropping into limp mode for safety. As mentioned above, I have seen this and it shows no errors.
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Scott.T ... funny actually I took with me a HKS AFR & FCD and a Blitz SBC with me and said just in case he's unable to control the ECU he could fit these ... (blumin eck can you imagine how much it would have cost me with that labour on top) ..... anyway the reason he didnt fit them ... he told me that was the cheats way of getting it to work ...
Last edited by JAPSU; 15 August 2007 at 09:44 PM.
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Could be a boost leak? The hard plastic pipe under the intercooler is prone to cracking. If you haven't already check all pipework, air filter, clean MAF and boost control solonoid with brake cleaner, all simple checks.
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#26
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I've got all the possible bits that you could need here, give me a shout if you want me to have a look, no charge . If not, do the ecu test as described on scott t's website and see if the boost control solenoid is working.
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Hi Mate defo want you to have a look for me ... I'm fitting Xpower Graphics to an MG on Saturday and Cusco Graphics to a Scooby Sunday ... so this weekends out ..... but let me know when would suit you I only live Altrincham .. so easy to bob across anytime in evening for a look see.
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