Based on the Group Buy currently running, (http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/showthread.php?t=530366) can anyone explain how a thermostat which opens at a lower temperature contribute to a cooler running engine?

As I understand it, the thermostat is just a temperature controlled valve, which opens at a set temperature (OEM is 80 degrees IIRC).

As I 'normally' run around 94C on the road, peaking at 107C (!!!) on trackdays, would this actually help, as the OEM thermostat would be wide open by then anyway!

As you guys are experiencing what I would consider a mild winters day temperature wise at the moment , you may have some idea of the temperature control issues I face here!

Are there any issues (other than extended warm-up) with removing the thermostat completely?

Neil (currently 'enjoying' 48C temps )

 

because it opens sooner..

seeing now 77 on cooler morning cruise. Still heats up on idle to same as before mind..

Seeing good oil temps too.. although not measured before the stat change.

Simon

 

Old topic I know guys but did this have any issues with "cold" running on the ecu?

Mine seems to run at about 98 deg on normal/motorway cruise and over 102+ when pushing...

Just wonder if normal runs with coolant temps down to say under 80 deg would cause ecu to run differently?

 

Engines have an optimum water temp that they run at. I've never quite understood the point of running a colder 'stat. Surely all it does is drop the coolant temp a few degrees under normal running conditions? Which I just can't quite see the point of. If anything, I want to get my coolant up to temperature faster and a colder 'stat does the opposite. And under hard use, the colder 'stat makes no difference whatsoever, surely?

 

Have to agree with you there but I've heard it does...temps drop to 90 deg when on fast cruise etc...much better for me if I could have that figure instead of 98 before I blat her...I guess its to do with the system cooling earlier (stat fully open) so more cooling (time wise)??

 

It won't keep it cooler, it may take a (very little) while longer to get to temperature though.

Unless you are improving the cooling to the point where you run close to the stat opening temperature its pretty pointless to fit a cooler stat, even then its marginal as you soon go above that at low speeds unless you run the cooling fan, which hits power and fuel economy anyway.

Simon

 

Okay cheers Simon...

 

I can only speak for my experience of cars in the UK.

Cooler stats do make engines run cooler, cooler engines are less prone to det.

The stat is not a switch and is designed not just to stay closed until a preset temp is reached but to open gradually over a temperature range, increasing coolant flow as it does so.

Andrew...

 

Ah, all makes sense now...its using the existing rad system to better effect as the stat is open wide longer...so more cooling. Cheers chap

Okay, looks like this is the route I will be taking...

Anyone know where to get one from and how much they are?

 

as others have said it makes a big difference..

temps on my car have dropped from late 80s to 78 on high speed cruise and engine takes more timing as a result.. and also lower oil temps.

Simon

 

so in conjunction with this, should we be looking to run millers rad-hib extra cool as these are said to dramatically reduce runnin temps aswell?

 

not tried it.. heard good things about water wetter..

Simon

 

Can't argue with results like that. So the question is, where do you get one from?

 

lol...I've just asked the same question on another topic...hope they're not £100 for one

 

I ordered mine today from David Henry cars and it cost £55 with next day delivery.

Banny

 

Nice one Banny...cheapest I've found so far...

 

sure there is a company called zerosports that do them as well, sure I have seen them for £40 odd quid somewhere (will try and remember)

 

I just bought one from flat4online it was £70 made by sard but i havnt fitted it yet, so interested to read this thread

 

Performance 71°c Thermostat & 1.4bar Rad Cap

 

gutted!!

 

Don't want to gut you out even more, but I just ordered the same SARD one direct from Nengun in Japan - AND a 1.3 bar rad cap for £45 the lot delivered or thereabouts.

 

The one i ordered is a zerosports stat.

Banny

 

Excellent, cheers guys, just saved a few quid!

 

The one in the link is not a Zero Sports thermostat, and has a much smaller aperture for the water to flow through.

I have tried the one in the link, and the Zero Sports are more reliable.


Mark.

 

I've ended up buying from Mark as he gave me a top quote, including engine mounts etc...cheers Mark

 

Sorry to dig this up guys but I have been umming and ahhing about getting a cooler thermostat (Zerosports or Sard) as I get tired of getting out of the car with the TT running, just to find that sods law 15 secs after the cooling fans kick in the car turns off, never sits right with me. That and I too believe that it can't hurt to run a bit cooler. HOWEVER, I saw the post from JGM in this thread: https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...themostat.html and I would like to know what he means in simple folks terms .

Cheers,

Nick

 

when the engine is cooler, it needs more fuel, a bit like a choke on a carb car, what simon has done is turn the temp down at which point it needs a choke. so in effect, he's making the automatic choke turn off at 72(random figure below cruise temps) degrees instead of 80

 

Can you do that on an Apexi PFC via the commander??

 

you cant change the stat opening with the pfc, all you could do is add more fuel but with the standard stat the engine would be running hotter so it wouldnt be able to take more timing so your just wasting the fuel, running injectors at a higher duty for no benefit.

What I think would happen is that with a lower temp opening stat, you would just run a different portion of the map for the temperatures that the engine is seeing.

A question for the mappers on this though, if you had a standard stat when originally mapped, would you benefit from a remap with a lower temp stat

 

Hmm, sounds like more hassle than it's worth for me I think. I will give the coolant a flush and renew it, I have never had overheating problems anyway, just the comical sod's law fan cutting in just before the TT cuts.