Hi all!

My WRX “01 has developed a strange starting problem. It doesn“t do it every time I start it, but when it happens it will idle for 1-2 second before stalling. It happens only when starting from cold. No CEL on the dashboard. After stalling it takes several attempts to get it started. It seems to me that the problem is fuel related, like it doesn“t get enough fuel to keep itself running. Is there an idle control valve on my car? could this be it?

Car is running perfectly otherwise.

Thanks
Claus

 

The first time I started it today it idled for about 2-3 seconds and then died. The second time I turned the key it started and ran and ran all day long:-)

Any suggestions on what I can do? If it“s the coolant temp. sensor or idle control valve can they be fixed or cleaned to work again somehow?

 

Sounds like it could be the coolant sensor, but I'd of though that it would show the CEL.

 

No CEL“s. Where do I find the coolant temp. sensor and idle control valve?

 

Coolant sensor is in the water cross pipe on top of the block under the inlet manifold, not too sure of the Idle control valve on your car, it may be on the inlet manifold to the back on the right

 

sounds more like an immoboliser problems as it will allow the car to run for 4 secs then stops the engine

 

Didn“t know my car had an immobiliser. It will run for max. 2-3 sec. when it does this. Could it have something to do with me locking the car with the key in the door because the battery in the key is finished?

 

Hey, easy now guys. Queue up :-)

 

Id say its the idle control valve.

 

Ok thank you. Noone knows for sure where the idle control and coolant temp. sensor is placed. Pictures would be nice.

 

it's built in to the key transponder type, when you put the key in the ignition does the flashing light go out on the dash?

 

Yeah the flashing red key symbol goes out when I put the key in the ignition.

Problem has become worse. Engine won“t run at all today. Still does fire up and will idle for 1/2 - 1 sec. then dies. If I start the engine immediately without waiting for the fuel pump to finish whirring, the engine will idle for a little longer. If I tap the loud pedal just a bit it makes the problem even worse. It“s like the revs won“t stabilize at idle. Revs just falls until engine dies.

HELP please. Where is the idle control valve and the coolant temp. sensor. Can anyone post some pictures of where these are in the engine bay please.

 

Think the ISCV is on the throttle body on the later cars.

 

i have the same problem. when starting the car your normally hear the fuel pump noise thingy. But when i dont hear that noise there is a problem with it. I found out that i have to remove the back seats and there is a few plugs. i gave them a little move a round and then tried starting it again. It worked and i heard the noise again. I was told it has something to do with the immobiliser and the fuel pump. hope this helps

 

I can hear my fuel pump every time I turn the key. So I think it must be the idle control valve. Guess I“ll have to take off I/C, dismantle throttle body, clean everything inside it and cross my fingers. When the problem occurs I can hear a whining noise from the top of the throttle body.

Now it“s raining outside and I can“t get my car inside my garage cos car won“t start!!

 

No luck. I take it that the idle control valve is the little magnetic valve on top of the throttlebody. Took it apart and cleaned it but the engine still only idles for 1 sec. before it dies. Didn“t test the little magnetic motor cos I don“t have the values for this nor the tools/skills.

I“ve had other suggestions for this problem saying it“s the MAF.

 

if you unplug the maf and it idles then it is the maf, if you unplug it and it doesn't run then it is unlikely that it is the maf.

 

Thanks I“ll try that tomorrow, flat battery getting a recharge now.

 

Put in recharged battery, disconnected MAF. Engine started immediately, but got a CEL. 5x start/stop and it dissappeared. Went for the motorway and nothing unusual from AFR meter or KL, yet it threw a CEL again. Engine pulling like it use to, so something tells me this is no MAF problem. Can I clean the MAF? As far as I know there is a difference in the MAF from a classic to a newage, the latter supposed to be better. Do they go on newage cars as well?

 

I take it that you plugged it back in before you went for a drive?

You can clean it with aerosol brake cleaner, just don't touch the element

99/00 cars were the problem ones, not heard of many issues with the newage, but can't see why it wont fail, especially if used with an oiled air filter.

Adam

 

Yes I plugged it in before driving :-)

Today engine fired up willingly, I went out to warm up the engine. When I came back I pulled the MAF connector and engine died immediately. To my knowledge this means that MAF is functioning normally. I just don“t get this. Could it be that when I pulled my battery to recharge it, the ECU was cleared for fault codes and this could have an influence on the engine making it start perfectly now?

 

Cleaned the MAF today and it was very dirty. Used brake cleaner and one of those sticks you use to clean your ears with. It became all black from the dirt on the MAF sensor. I cleaned the hot film and up inside the little tube.

The engine now starts perfectly and pulls fine like it has always done. Strange thing is that I still get a CEL now and then when I let it stretch on the motorway. Time to read some codes.

 

The select monitor at the Subarugarage had a whole bunch of codes in it:

P0340 camshaft sensor
P0102 MAF
P0508 idle control
P0113 intake air temp.
P1131 O2 sensor

Mech. reckoned that it would be unlikely for the engine to run properly (which it does) with all these faults so he thought that they showed up as a result of the battery being disconnected when I recharged it. He then cleared the ECU for faults and told me to come back another day to have the ECU checked for new faults.

The intermittent starting problem is still there though. The car is mapped with EcuTek in belgium and the guy down there think it is idle speed control valve or the MAF. My problem is that I don“t want to buy various sensors/parts before I“m sure they are going to cure the problem. Was told by the mechanic that a new newage MAF was around 300£ + VAT and that the idle speed control valve was only available as a complete throttle body (very expensive).

Think I“ll start with changing the spark plugs as they are due for service soon anyway and then I“ll get rid of my old transparent panel Greenfilter and swop it for a KN panel.

Isn“t it possible to buy a newage MAF as cartridge only, like those for the classic? and maybe I can get the idle speed control valve as a seperate part, perhaps from a breaker. Someone who has contact details for this?

 

Bugeye MAF's are available as a replacement only at about 70-80 quid plus vat. BR Developments do them as do a number of other outlets.

I'm not sure if it's a MAF problem....the newage ECU can usually get a car to idle even with a dodgy MAF.

I'd try and borrow a MAF from a mate and swap it over and see what happens !! only a 2 minute job.

The Idle Control valve costs about £280 plus VAT new !!!!

Shaun

 

Ouch!!

Perhaps I should try the breakers. Is the ISCV a seperate sparepart from new or only available as a complete throttlebody as I was told by dealer?

Any links to breakers?, Subaru“s not very common in denmark.

 

Ordered 4 new plugs yesterday. Hope this helps.

 

Any updates, have the same problem?
So if you put your ear near the fuel pump at the back of the car, and switch the electrics on, you are suppose to hear it whirl?

 

hi very frustrating problem this, i had it on my t 2000,prob seem to get worse after couple months,then one day started the car fired up as i touched the start button then 2 -3 seconds dropped off to sleep again,i tried and tried and tried again to start it using differant throttle positions,no way !! not today steve yr lucks run out , so i walked home very shall we say despondant,gave CENTRALSUBARU a ring they picked the beast up was sorted next day with a new fuel pump plus some other checks,also did my air con rad all in 200 quid. my idle is hunting however and i think that mab a problem, but then air leaks-vacume leaks are common on older cars anyway.- fuel pump. ;O) THAT NOT MY NAME BY THE WAY.