morto15

Have just had to buy new tubular manifold (due to the crap Feral race manifold blowing 2 holes after 600 miles!!) got this one from RCM, fitting the turbo up pipe looks a little daunting do you have to strip the turbo off? or is there a hassle free way of doing it cheers for any info

360ste

iTrader: (1)

After fitting mine I found a piece on either hear or SIDC recommending that you fit the up-pipe to the headers first then having undone the engine mounts lift the engine slightly to allow fitment. The reason for this is when you try to bolt the headres to the up-pipe getting two of the three bolts tightened is easy getting the third is a swine. All the bolts for the up-pipe can be got from the top of the engine. Hope this helps

silent running

Having done this a number of times now, I'd always do it like this. It sounds like more work, but it will save you untold hassle:
1. Drive car up on ramps - much easier than working under a jack because you'll be over and under the engine bay a lot.
1. Headers off, disconnect up-pipe end first (10 mins)
2. Downpipe off, undo lambda and cat-on-fire sensor wires first, sensors themselves can stay in place (30 mins)
3. Turbo off, undo water (side) and oil (top) connections, be prepared for a bit of water to fall out, bottom oil drain just pulls straight out when you lift the turbo. (20 mins)
4. Up-pipe is now ready to be taken out with no fuss whatsoever.

An hour's work if you're fast, although the first time I did it without a lot of guidance and plenty of tea, and time to look at stuff and mull it over; it was a morning's work. This all assumes that your bolts/nuts/studs aren't seized. It's slightly time-consuming, but there's no EASIER way of doing it. I recommend you get yourself a 14mm swivel head ratchet spanner and a good quality wall-drive six-sided 14mm socket. You'll need both. Refitting is exact reverse of removal, the worst bit can be getting the turbo oil drain pipe back inside its rubber counterpart right below it.

morto15

Thanks silent running, (and 360ste) its a lot easier when someone has done it before mind you it will still prob take me a morning and loads of tea! but that helps a lot

silent running

It took me ages the first time. I'm no mechanic. I've just got plenty of tools and time and can't stand paying other people to do jobs I know I should learn to do myself. Don't be too worried if it takes you a whole day to get the old lot off, change the up-pipe and put everything back together. The main sticking point will be seized studs and bolts so get plenty of PlusGas on the case beforehand. When doing everything back up, remember that every single nut in the whole system from headers to downpipe is only torqued up to 35-40lb/ft - i.e. hand tight on a long spanner.

paul holland 555

New member to Scoobynet needs help. Ive got to change my up pipe on a classic wrx, I take it that all the above points can be done once the downpipe is off as well. Ive loosened 3 off the 5 nuts at the turbo but cant even see the ones at the back.(Under downpipe flange). Was told is possible to change up pipe by just lifting the turbo?

StickyMicky

whats is the question??


you know about the 5 nuts, you have loosened 3 of them off and you are stuck? just take the other 2 nuts off

paul holland 555

The question is, can you get to the two nuts at the back or does the down pipe have to come off before getting at them. I cant get a socket on them or spanner.

StickyMicky

you need the downpipe off to get the turbo off, to get the upipe off........

silent running

Downpipe >>> Turbo >>> Up-Pipe, in that order.

When you look down on the turbo there are three obvious studs to tackle. The two others are nicely hidden underneath the downpipe exit flange and you can't get a socket to them, there's just no sensible way. You HAVE to remove the downpipe, which really isn't that bad a job. Once that's off, everything else becomes obvious.

paul holland 555

ok you lot, thanks alot. Will have a go tomorrow depending on the weather.