rob2006

iTrader: (1)

I have an 03 PPP'd STI (type Uk)

I want to start buying bit by bit all the parts i will need to reach my target BHP. (380ish)

By this time next year i want to have everything on the car and a nice map in place by Andy Forrest....

I will buy a few parts new - depending what they cost. But mostly i will be hovering the for sale section for bargains.

Are my standard injectors good enough for that power. If not what are they maxed out at?

Will a tdo5 20G do?

What else should i expect to buy?

survey steve

check this post and car out, may give you one or two ideas



https://www.scoobynet.com/scotland-2...ml#post6901462

ZEN Performance

Straight through centre section, md321h turbo, map, maybe a cold air induction kit. Your best bet is to speak to Andy, as he can supply the important bits himself.

RLE

iTrader: (2)

Hi Rob

My 53 plate is there or there abouts on an 18G turbo (delta dash shows 392/350 but yet to get it rolling roaded)

20G is capable for the numbers you crave but its a turbo I didn't like when I tried it (spool etc). Mid range is much better on the 18G and suits my driving style a lot better.

Mods came to about £2500.00 all in which included a lot of new bits (turbo and 3" exhaust)

No experience with the MD turbo but if Paul recommends it will certainly be up to the job.

SSCJAY

Is easy to strap a bigger turbo to your engine and get the power your after, but if your planning on keeping the car with standard engine you really need to think about making the engines job nice and easy to increase its life. I would put on Parrallel fuel rails, Uprated headers, Induction system with larger turbo inlet.

Previously I had an 04 sti running 420bhp on standard internals but at only 1.55 bar of boost (lots of supporting mods though)

Without the right components you could see ring land failures and a hefty repair bill!

ZEN Performance

Things have moved on.

rob2006

iTrader: (1)

To be honest the turbo is probably the one thing i will definitely be buying second hand although it will be a low miles example.

I ideally what the car to have as little lag as possible but still have over the 365 mark. I take it the 18G is less laggy but the trade off is a lower max bhp.?

I was under the impression for some reason that the newage cars were parallel fed... is this not the case then

I plan on getting the standard headers ported and wrapped and fitting a perrin CAI

Believe it or not the exhaust is causing me loads of grief. I have been told that the prodrive 100cell cat (downpipe) is an excellent piece of kit and flows as much as any decatted down pipe. I have then also been told that i wont get over 340bhp if i leave this in place.

Just wot the hell do i do. I dont want to get rid of my prodrive system! LOL.

ZEN Performance

You you want 365hp, then the 18g is probably for you. I wouldn't worry about parallel fuel rails, keep the PPP downpipe (which is very good), straight through centre section, remap. However i wouldn't skimp on the turbo, buying new may well save you grief.

Paul

SSCJAY

in what way?

I have seen a couple of 53/04 sti running 380 - 390 bhp with not much other than a larger turbo and uprated FPR and have blown rings in 8000 miles!!
Consequences of running 1.6-1.7 bar i would have thought??

scoobboy

iTrader: (3)

was it one of your mates cars i guess???

prob wasnt even mapped properly for that to happen, or even at all

SSCJAY

Nope, Cars I had the pleasure of repairing

ZEN Performance

Are you Vin Diesel?

scoobboy

iTrader: (3)

wish i could have got 390bhp outta my newage sti with such few mods

more like suckin diesel

SSCJAY

Sorry, Am just sharing the things I have seen for the good of the community that's what I thought these forums were for to share each other's experiences? I haven't come on here to take the **** or for people to take the ****.

Grow up boys

ZEN Performance

"blown piston rings", is that something you know as fact, or something someone told you? If the car is setup correctly, an new age UK STI with forged pistons, should be fine for 400hp, any more and I would recommend uprating the internals, but the pistons are good as they are.

"supporting mods" covers a multitude of sins, many of them are not needed if the core components are there, but they will often enhance any setup. Since people are often after the best VFM, then that's the route I would suggest first.

I will scan the graphs of 390hp with the following mods:

MD321h turbo
3" sports cat exhaust system
walbro fuel pump
hyperflow cold air induction
650cc injectors
remap

The car drives very nicely, and is a great road car.

RLE

iTrader: (2)

Rob.......here's what I went for. It took me around six months of solid research and a bit of wasted cash and time getting the drive I wanted but I think I'm there or there abouts now.

-Base car 53 plate sti with ppp 305bhp

-Added TSL 333 remap (Mapped by Richard Bulmer) which utilized the existing Prodrive exhaust set up and uprated fuel pump from the PPP. Only other thing added at this time was a Green panel filter. Total cost £600.00 which included the Ecutek license. Power now 332/290.

-Next........Harvey Smith up-pipe; Roger Clarke 3" down pipe; Revolution 3" exhaust; ported headers; Forge recirculating dump valve; 20G turbo; all components wrapped wherever possible; remap by Andy Forrest. Not sure of power but spool slow and I simply hated the set up. On boost I must admit it flew!

-Off with the 20G on with the 18G after much deliberation. Remap with Andy Forrest again. Difference substantial. Quick spool of turbo (on par with the oem VF35) mid range pull was a lot stronger than the 20G. B roads simply fantastic as the turbo was always on boost. With the 20G I was always up and down the gears. Yes top end bhp will be slightly less but on the road I would be surprised if the 20G out performs the 18G.
Power now 350/330 but all was not right on the rollers........loss of boost quite early

-Further remap scheduled with Bob Rawle. Plugs uprated to NGK7' and added a RCM 80mm K&N cone as well as a 3 port boost solenoid. These mods seemed to make a massive difference and the car was ballistic. Power now 392/350 which is my lot on the current set up without the addition of a FMIC.

As I mentioned before I made a few errors with my choices and this cost me a bit of cash with the remaps and new turbo but its all a learning curve I guess.

The top mappers agree the sti TMIC is good for 400 bhp so I'm not going to swap it over considering the cost v gains plus the current set up is more than enough for the road. The exhaust is certainly an area of contention...........some mappers feel the Prodrive sports cat is good others dont. I took the advice of the mapper that I was booked in with at the time purely as he had good experiences with the set up. I sold my Prodrive system and this practically covered my outlay for the new components.

I'd agree with Paul. Dont skimp on the turbo especially as the likes of Andy F offer a years warranty. Sure other suppliers will as well. You will have your VF35 available to sell as well to recoup some of your outlay (I sold mine for £350.00)

I know I've waffled on but to finish I'll give you approximate costs of my current set up assuming I got everything right the first time.......

TD05 18G turbo (new) £920.00
Ported Headers/ Harvey Smith Up pipe/ RCM 3" downpipe - ported and wrapped -£615 (all new except for the headers which Harvey ported for me)
Revolution 3" exhaust system (new) £285.00
Turbo Blanket (new) £80.00
Forge Recirculating DV - (used) £85.00
RCM 80mm Induction trumpet and K & N filter (new) £260.00
3 port boost solenoid (used) £45.00
Induction Shield (new/ fabricated) approx £100.00
Remap (license already purchased) £400.00
NGK7 plugs (new) £30.00

Won't bore you with suspension/ brake upgrades which I think are essential if you are looking at this power but the above exludes labour. Recouped about £800.00 in bits I sold (VF35 turbo/ Prodrive exhaust)

Running 1.45 boost btw.

HTH

rob2006

iTrader: (1)

Thats excellent mate, thanks

I forgot i could sell my turbo afterwards so a new turbo is a definite now as i was looking to pay about £600 for one anyway.

Again the headers will get ported and wrapped so i will talk with harvey about this to get costs etc..

At most i will change the center section as i really want to keep the catted downpipe and prodrive rear box. (its a noise thing) I have no option in this as the wife will not let me have the boy racer noise! No offense intended to all those that are loud and proud

Whats this then?

Is the standard one not upto the job? I have a VTA one but its no longer fitted as i've grown out of the noise it makes... for sale too..

Read a little about perrin stuff and they seem to be rated well for scoobies so i think i'll try one of their cold air intakes that sit inside the inner wing.

Whats the story with the 3 port boost solenoid's, i think i might have one of these available for free. (friend going AVCR on pre 96 classic shape ) i assume a classic one is fine?

No licence so about £600 for me eh!

Ohh thank you for reminding me... i have a set of these in the shed which i never got round to fitting on the classic i used to have.

This year i'm looking at buying a either Perrin front and rear ARB, drop links and an anti lift kit. I also want a set of coilovers or just better struts but nothing ott as the car will never see a track. Handling upgrades are the reason why my power increase wont happen straight away.

SSCJAY

Blown rings yes, (top ring land) Both went for uprated wiseco pistons in the end.

Was just trying to make a point that VFM may mean compromise the life of the engine, in my opinion is better to over engineer than get by on the bare essentials.

RLE

iTrader: (2)

Hi Rob

The Revolution exhaust is one of the quieter ones to be honest. Like you I'm not too keen on the loud dustbin lid tail pipes that you see about these days. Sure the OEM dumpvalve serves its purpose but understood the Forge ones to be a little stronger and as it was off Revolutions demo car and practically brand new I had to have it for the price . Hate the VTA so again I'm on your line of thinking.

3 port boost solenoid helps achieve a finer control of boost. Where mine tailed off with the standard 2 port in place the replacement ensured I could hold peak a lot better. If you can get one for free snap it up. The one I got was from a Sti5 so one from a classic will be fine although it will need modifying slightly to fit your newage. Your mapper will be able to sort on day of fit.

Turbo blanket helps keep the temps at bay and trust me the heat that the bigger turbo gives off was shocking. A worthwhile addition.

I toyed with the Perrin and APS cold air kits for some time but plummed for the RCM 80mm after speaking with Bob Rawle. IIRC Bob worked closely with RCM developing this kit for his old JDM Newage and it appears to work well with good gains.

On the handling front I went with AST coilovers (12 way adjustable) which are simply fantastic and believe it or not are more compliant than the prodrive springs that I had on before. Really pleased I got them tbh (cost £1000.00 fitted on a group buy @ Powerstation). Adjustable Whiteline ARB on the rear with uprated alloy drop links all round and Whiteline Anti Lift Kit (Demon Tweeks give Scoobynet members 15% discount which is worth remembering). Finally fitted H brace underneath the car to compliment the front and rear strut braces that were already on the car.

Damn. I didn't realise I had so much on it.

Have you decided on who you are going to get the car mapped by yet?

pippyrips

my jdm is pushing a comfortable 370/370 with mods listed in view my scooby

ZEN Performance

Sorry there is no such thing as "blown" rings. If you've damaged a ring land, then that's a mapping issue. It would be worth noting that RCMS use OE rings in their high power 2.0 builds, including the Team Ice car and the gobstopper. You can overheat rings or get them to pinch up with incorrect gaps, running in, mapping, piston design etc etc.

I've got customers running over 40,000 miles on an STI8 bottom end, running at least 375hp, and for the last 20,000 miles, over 400hp.

SSCJAY

I think you misunderstand me, the Piston rings were ok it the piston Ring lands the piece of the piston between the top piston ring and the piston crown.

Blown rings is just a laymans term I know, but self explainatory for the less informed individuals.

I know what these engines are capable of when mapped correctly I had one myself!!

GazTheHat

I have almost an identical setup to RLE, but i'm running with Octane Booster too and different exhaust components.

The 18g will give you the driveability and figures you desire.

ZEN Performance

In fariness, the same thing would have happened with the wiseco pistons. It sounds like the car was detting heavily, and or running too lean (ie hot) and caused the damage. The latest turbos mean you don't have to thrash the engine to make power, or "prop up" the turbo with lots of little extras to get the power. FWIW with a "big" turbo I've made over 370hp at the wheels on a standard v7 bottom end, using headers, FMIC injectors etc. Carefully tuned it will have lots of life in it before the planned rebuild to a larger engine.

SSCJAY

Well that probably would Have answered my original question when you said 'things had moved on'

Have not seen one of these MD321H's so probably bit behind the times.

The failures I had seen I put down to Poor fuelling at high duty cycle on the oem fuel lines, and too much boost. Obviously both resulting in det.

That's why I recommend parrallel fuel rails for high HP applications and for the sake of £200 is one problem overcome.

Regarding the V7 bottom end, Is that not better anyway due to having real forgies instead of the Hypercast pistons in the V8?

ZEN Performance

Uk sti 8 has forged pistons, or at least those I've stripped do.

I would say a parallel fuel rail mod isn't so important on a newage with top feed injectors, the fuel rails flow very well, without injectors in the way like with a classic sidefeed setup.

SSCJAY

I checked with Subaru When I came accross the first problem, they told me they were hypereutectic Pistons from the V8 onwards.

Very similar characteristics to a forged piston in terms of thermal displacment and strength, but alot cheaper.

davedipster

Now I'm interested...looks in pocket for spare cash...

How much for this little lot, drive in-drive out for a 03sti ppp?

Dipster.

ZEN Performance

I can ASSURE you that at least some MY03 Uk STI version 8 engines, have forged pistons. I won't say all as I haven't stripped every v8 sti yet!

They are also different to the v7 forged piston.

SSCJAY

I'm doing a 2.5 L conversion on an 04sti smoe time this month, we'll see what comes out of it!!