The Seer

Purchased a V 5 Type R last week, 56K on the clock, very nice example all bills/history imported by Prodrive in '99. I'm aware of the fragility and reliable longevity isn't this engines strong point. I've spoken to GGR and many rebulids they have done. Also spoken to RCM. Visiting on Monday to have their uprated oil pump fitted. They seem relatively confident in it's prupose of rectifying a prominent weak spot of the engine. Does anyone have any comments on this?

Also poor fueling can cause rebuilds. Discussed with GGR. Says an uprated map for 99 r.o.n. will certainly add some piece of mind when being driven hard. RCM say that this isn't necessary and that simply checking/replacing lamba and MAF will suffice. Again can anyone comment on this.

Is there anything else I should know on preventative measures in avoiding engine rebuilds?

stockcar

personally an Ecutek re-map will be far more suited than anything else...............find it odd that RCM should suggest otherwise??

alyn

The Seer

Thanks for the reply. No, RCM (olley) never mentioned and when asked said it wasn't necessary. Any more info about the Ecutek item?

Pete

Where in the country are you?? i`m having my RA mapped on next week, fuel pump, knock link etc API in Leamington, warick

scooby-k

same engine as P1 and the fuelling or rather poor map by prodrive is what kills them in my opinion so unless its been mapped for uk fuel you should consider it. poor oil flow as rcm have said is another factor. How much is the rcm pump fitted?
maf sensors are also week point on this model
ken

The Seer

I live in Essex. Travelling isn't a problem as long as isn't Scotland for a re-map! A.P.I eh? any idea of prices for re-map on 99 R.O.N.? Also what it's involved in for the money? GGR have suggested the car is mapped for 99 R.O.N. £800 all in. The new oil pump is the low side of £500 including work to fit it. However I don't think this pump increases the flow rate. All it does is stop a vacuum forming once oil is changed by having a better presure release valve. Although I'm now thinking perhaps this wont suffice to protect the big end at high revs. Does anybody know of any group N oil pumps that are available and where to get one, prices also please?

Thanks for the info about P1's and why their engine longevity is decreased. No the car isn't mapped for 99 R.O.N. although it's been in the country since '99 (Imported by Prodrive). It's been looked after and survived up until now. Though that's not enough to convince me to not chose the route of a re-map. Oddly Olley at RCM really didn't think it is necessary and that checking/replacing the lamba and MAF were enough as far as fueling goes. I think I'll have a re-map done as a matter of course. Without wanting to spend out on MOTEC unit any idea of a unit that is regarding as being a decent lesser priced alternative?

Thanks.

dazdavies

iTrader: (22)

Speaking from my own experiences and the learning curve I have gone through over the last few years. I was a complete novice and now build my own and other peoples engine's.

The single best piece of advice I can give you is to definately get the oil pump changed. These are the primary cause of bottom end failures in Imprezas epecially the classic shape. I think £500 is a tad on the steep side though as the pump is around £170 and fitting it can be done in a couple of hours.

But defo get it done it could save you thousands.

Mapping is an issue too due to UK fuel not being as high octane as the Jap stuff . Again though if your spending £800 you could get a standalone ECU such as an Apexi power FC (i'm running one of these) fitted and mapped for that. ECUTEK's should be no more that £650 fitted and mapped but vat's ontop of that so if your £800 includes vat its not far off.

With an ECUTEK your first map includes the license. subsequent maps should cost you £300 ish.

Hope that helps

Daz

Sc0oby

can any please give me more details on why the oil pump fail? had a v3 type r for almost 10 years no no problem or whatever.

MrRA

RCM know their stuff so I would be happy with what they tell me in all honesty. As regards the GrpN oil pump, again talk to RCM on this. If you really insist on one I'm sure they will obtain one for you. They are simply in another league IMO.

dazdavies

iTrader: (22)

Have to agree with that. They are by far the best around.

rob4620

Get to Zen Performance Northampton, they just set me up the most perfect blistering RA ever!

Zen Performance - Performance upgrade solutions for Japanese cars

Speak to Paul and tell them Rob sent you, best mapper around.

smithy 7

damm wished i asked that question before my engine went boom.

same car as you mate same year same milage, gutted

The Seer

Apparentley the only reason the big end goes is because of detonation in the combustion chamber of cylinder 3. This caused by the temperature of this cylinder becoming to hot by being next to the turbo charger and by it being the furthest from the water pump. The detonation causes a shock which travels down the con rod and eventually knackers the bearing. I've been told a decent re-map will help in preventing this though can't make the engine last forever(lucky to see past 90,000 miles). The only time it is worth having the oil pump changed is when the oil is required to be changed. The pump doesn't increase flow rate. All it does is prevent from a vacuum being created which can be another cause of engine damage AFTER an oil change.

terryb

The Seer

There are so many different theories as to why these engines let go and all of them are justified. I had a P1 for 2 years without a problem - 40k miles and lots of hard driving. Changed for an STI 5 RA Ltd and have had 2 engine failures (big ends) in that time.

At least one of my engine failures was definately an oil starvation issue - so the above comment about ONLY happening due to detting is incorrect.

You asked for tips on how to prevent this - so these are my tips

1. Fit a knocklink - will give visual warning of detting
2. Modified oil pump (which you have planned)
3. Never take the engine beyond 7500 rpm or 7000 rpm if you are disciplined - and NEVER try a top speed run (both my engine failures happened doing this)
4. Get a remap - as mentioned above
5. When getting the car after a sevice, take it easy - do not rev the car hard or drive fast round bends, etc - as if the oil level is high - then oil could contaminate the MAF through the breather hoses. An oil contaminated MAF can result in massive detting causing a failure
6. Use good quality oil - Motul 300V or similar and check the level regularly - especially before/ after a long journey/ trackday
7. If subecting to prolonged hard use (1/4 mile or track day) then use some octane booster, as that will give you more of a safety margin


Hope this helps - I have been there and done it as they say

Pete

Some sound advice there Terry