bugeyeandy

All I have is an STi backbox apart from that it's standard.
If I went down the road of an uprated fuel pump and samco hose on the intercooler what sort of horsepower would I be looking at from a remap (I realise the pump and hose don't increase the bhp).

Also, is the ecutek a remap of the ECU that's already in the car?

funkyspider

To be worth the while you need to (as a minimum) replace the centre pipe cat with a straight through pipe and add a K&N or Green panel filter in addition to what you already have. An uprated fuel pump is a good idea, but I wouldnt think 'a must' for a mild first map.

Initial remap with just those mechanical mods should see 245-ish, but does improve the driveability of the car more than the modest increase suggests.

Ecutek is basically a bit of software (or firmware) that is uploaded onto the existing ECU. This software allows the mapper full control over the fuelling and boost maps, and a bit more besides.

I'd suggest finding a mapper you would want to use again and getting them to build in some 'headroom' into the initial map. An Ecutek map is usually locked by the original mapper, but that mapper would be able to access it to tweak it at a later date if you removed the cat downpipe for example. A different mapper would have to start from scratch with their own base map. You only pay for the Ecutek license once, which is the reason why the first map is expensive, subsequent remaps are charged at time only basis.

There is an alternative to Ecutek - I think it's OpenECU which doesnt involve an initial license fee, but less mappers use it. I believe scoobynet member Jolly Green Monster does non-Ecutek mapping. I'm sure I'll be corrected if wrong on any of these points An Ecutek map cannot be later overwritten with OpenECU without a full reset of the ecu (which I believe needs it to be sent away to Ecutek??)

easyrider

JollyGreenMonster does use openecu software- And he's local to you Bugeyeandy,and has a lot of experience in remapping.

I can vouch for the openecu software as ive been using it to do my own mapping(also have a bugeye), and have had some very impressive results,its pretty much the same as Ecutek.

IMO openecu is better than Ecutek, as there is no "lock" on your ecu so if you wish to at a later date,you can tweek the map yourself and the software is allways being improved-and the best bit is that the program is FREE-you only have to get a compatable OBD2 lead for your laptop-Ecutek locks the ecu so that only they can look at the map/remap,which i feel is a bit naughty considering that YOU own the ecu.

Its taken me hours, and i mean HOURS of tweeking bits here and there + galllons of fuel to get to the stage i am at with mapping, plus i had to understand that i may blow the engine on my learning time.So, i'd say that its best to give JGM a PM/email- i think you will find that he's pretty reasonable in the price stakes too

Gary

easyrider

Forgot to add link-
Jolly Green Monster - ECU Mapping

Pete

Some good info there guys...

bugeyeandy

Thanks to the pair of you for the answers. 245 sounds good - i'm not looking for loads extra just enough to make it feel how it should if that makes sense.
I see PPP is £1k through SIDC but that only seems to have the samco, a backbox and a remap - how does this manage to make 260bhp?

Seems that ECUtek may be the expensive option if I don't intend to go any further with the mods. The initial licence fee is a whopper.

Thanks again, has given me some food for thought

Stevesbluewrx

iTrader: (4)

Andy,

YHPM mate.

Steve

funkyspider

Stage 2 of mild modding - add a prodrive sports cat downpipe and a decat up-pipe, its such a good second step of mods. Not overly expensive but will see you up to 290ish and keeping the engine 'sensibly' modded and well within the capabilities of the bottom and top end internals...

I also recommend a whiteline rear Anti-Rollbar, solid drop-links and some uprated brake pads. I used Mintex M1144 pads on standard disks which aren't the best by any stretch but give good strong bite from cold and slow the car hard and well on those more spirited drives.

easyrider

Personally-I would fit a decat up pipe for safety(they can overheat/break up with higher boost,pretty rare though)and down pipe for faster spool/free'er revving, keep the center pipe cat as they're not too restrictive at low levels of tune+ it'll pass the mot(fact)as a "stage1"-makes a world of difference compared to std and doesnt require a remap,then go for a remap to make the most of the easier breathing as a "stage2"-then youre going to be starting to have an edge(slight) on a Sti+ you'll get that proper kick when the turbo comes into action.
Just bear in mind-its a very slippery slope when you start doing this,as you will probably want more once you're used to the power hike!!!

Gary.

edit-also good advice above re the brakes ect