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Stuck 19mm bolt (strut upright)?

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Old 19 December 2006, 08:13 PM
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Henrik
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Cool Stuck 19mm bolt (strut upright)?

I'll be fitting some eibach's sometime in the near future, but what kind of tools would I require to remove the bolts that fix the hub to the strut upright (on a my03 wrx)? I have had a look at the bolts, and I think they are 19mm. However, they seem quite rusty, so no doubt they will be right little piglets to get off.

I was thinking of buying a breaker bar from Halfords, but it's only rated up to 390NM? Or should I go for something like this: Breaker Bar 1000mm 3/4Sq Drive Sealey AK7312

I'll try to find a single hex socket to go with it, because if I use double hex, no doubt the bolt will become rounded... I'll also use liberal amounts of WD40, of course

Also, do I need to buy new bolts for re-attaching the strut, and does someone know what they should be torqued up to?

Unfortunately I don't have access to air tools, but I've been preparing by eating lots of pies
Old 19 December 2006, 08:33 PM
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wez wrx
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Buy a gas torch, if there seized on heat them up for a couple of minutes and they' l come off ne bother! You' l also need some spring compressors! Both items cost less thn 30 quid.
Remember to get it 4 wheel alignmened by someone good!
Old 19 December 2006, 08:38 PM
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555Rob555
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They shouldn't be that hard. I have done loads of struts on old cars, and they all come in the end. A good, well fitting spanner on each end, and maybe some penetrating oil if required.

Put tour back into it man!!

Or your foot/ bodyweight if your backs too weak.
Old 19 December 2006, 08:52 PM
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Henrik
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Originally Posted by 555Rob555
They shouldn't be that hard. I have done loads of struts on old cars, and they all come in the end. A good, well fitting spanner on each end, and maybe some penetrating oil if required.

Put tour back into it man!!

Or your foot/ bodyweight if your backs too weak.
I'm more scared of breaking the tools / rounding the bolts

So, presumably the breaker bar I posted above is OK then?
Old 19 December 2006, 09:18 PM
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wez wrx
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More than ok! if you think the nut may round use a hex socket rather than the bi-hex type! But as i said use a bit heat and they'l come off with a rachet neva mind a breaker!!
Its a easy job, 45mins per corner no probs. Thats shock off ,springs changed and back in!
Old 19 December 2006, 10:06 PM
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Henrik
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Originally Posted by wez wrx
More than ok! if you think the nut may round use a hex socket rather than the bi-hex type! But as i said use a bit heat and they'l come off with a rachet neva mind a breaker!!
Its a easy job, 45mins per corner no probs. Thats shock off ,springs changed and back in!
Cool, thanks for the info!

Off to buy a torch in the coming days, then... May come in handy if I mess the nuts up and need to torch the car as well
Old 20 December 2006, 09:57 AM
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D1CCY
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Manual says use NEW locknuts and tighten to 129 ft-lb. Almost a 2 man job as its hard to hold the camber adjusting bolt in place when tightening. Suggest setting the bolts to give max negative camber (ie top of wheel leaning in most towards the car) until you can get alignment done.
Old 20 December 2006, 09:59 AM
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jim litten
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Halfrauds Pro 1/2" breaker bar and use 19mm impact socket, and decent ring key on the other side is more than man enough for the job, quick ****** of the breaker bar will crack it easily.
Old 20 December 2006, 11:07 AM
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silent running
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I used my 2 foot long torque wrench and a normal socket the first time, but now I just use a normal shortish socket wrench and hammer it round with a 1kg club hammer. I've never used new bolts, although you're probably supposed to. Once the club hammer's done it's stuff, there's no way anything's moving.
Old 20 December 2006, 11:07 AM
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Cheers guys, scoobynet at it's best
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