Brun

I had a problem a few weeks and 1200 miles ago (See here) and it seems to have returned
Took the car out for a spin and after a couple of miles the car felt like it was ever so slightly holding back, i thought nowt of it but after another mile, the power just went. As soon as i dipped the clutch, the car just died
As i mentioned in the other thread, it seemed to go when the key was removed and replaced - i tried it this time to no avail. After leaving it a minute, i tried again and she fired. I have since done 10 miles, with no ill affects. Can anyone come up with a suggestion.
I can't really turn upto Scoobyclinic and ask them to find a problem that occurs once every 1200 miles as it will be very costly and may not be found

Brun

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Brun

Anyone?

myblackwrx

iTrader: (1)

what year is it?

Brun

Oh yeah - MY99 uk car
Tek3, VF35, FMIC, VTA, K&n, full decat - just to complete the picture

MaDaSS

Crap petrol. Drive it out of the "system" and then fill up with some good stuff and see what happens then.

Brun

It's always fed on Esso SUL from the same garage.
Apart from the other night where it felt like it might be holding back a tad, it runs absolutly 100% apart from when it has cut out. I'm guessing a bad batch of fuel would make it run crap

myblackwrx

iTrader: (1)

You could always try optimax or tescos 99ron as well

log1

you have a full de cat exhaust. have you done a cell fix on your exhaust? and also are you getting a engine check light on?

Brun

No cel fix required on an MY99. It's been decatted for the last 4 years and in it's present state of tune for the last year with no issues.
I'm getting no cel light either as well as no fault codes when i check them.

Good suggestion but like i say, the car would probably run crap and light up my knocklink if the fuel was in question. The car either runs perfect, of it stops.

redscooby2003

I had a problem like that with my 98 model, turned out to be a fault with the immobaliser I had fitted to the car, cutting the negative side of the supply to the relay. If you don't have an immob on yours wired the same way or into the plus side, then maybe you could replace the relay and see what happens anyway.

Keith

Brun

Hmmmmmmmmm interesting.
My car is fitted with the OE Sigma M30 (did the 98's have that?)
Did your car turn over at all when the problem occured? It's just that when my immobiliser cuts in, the car won't turn. With this problem mine will turn but not fire

redscooby2003

It wasn't actually the imob cutting in, as the car would turn over just not fire up. It turned out to be a fault with the imob system. It has other points that it imobs on the car, but for some reason just that side of it went. I still have it fitted to the car and all works, been like that for a few years now too. But for some reason part of its control circuits decided that it would keep dropping, so the fule pump relay would get power to the plus side but nothing would go to either ground or negative side. So relay just stop the pump from working. I bypassed the connections on mine to remove the negative side and soldered the wires back together and hey presto she started, and I've never had a problem since. I even had it to a garage for diags before all that, and paid out £150 for a new knock sensor and labour. When picked it up it was running fine, but then it started happening again, so got an auto electrician to come round and thats what he found it to be. So thats why I suggest you try the relay, sounds just like mine. Hope that all makes sense.

Brun

Does sound very familiar. Where is this relay?
Thanks for your imput

BarnetScooby

I had an Audi A4 turbo a couple of years ago and it did exactly the same thing. It tunred out to be some sort of chip in the key causing a problem with my immobiliser, i got a new key and all was well

Yamarashi

I've experienced problems with a Sigma (Not the immobiliser side just the fuel cut off side) having intermittent problems powering the fuel pump similar to redscooby2003. Also had times when pulling off and refitting the connector the the fuel pump (under floor of boot) has resolved similar cranking but non starting problem. I made the contacts in the connector a tighter fit which seemed to stop this problem.