Hesitation but no idle problems.
#1
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Hesitation but no idle problems.
Hi everybody
Car: MY1998 UK 2000 Turbo wagon
Green panel filter
De-catted center section
Large bore rear silencer (which I am changing soon)
It also has a horrible VTA dump valve (also in process of changing)
If I accelerate with anything more than about 50% throttle the car loses all power (not electrical). It then recovers if I back off a little.
I have done a search on here. Most common fault seems to be a faulty MAF sensor however there also seems to be an associated idle problem which I don't have.
I have checked the MAF in that if you disconnect the cable from it whilst the engine is running the engine within about a second will stall. Could this still be the problem?
Any advice. Lambda sensor perhaps? What is it and where is it?
Only had the car two weeks - it ran really well when I got with the all the mods mentioned above. The only thing I have since changed is the green replacement panel filter as it had some sort of induction kit on it instead of the standard air box.
Appreciate any help chaps.
Thanks.
Car: MY1998 UK 2000 Turbo wagon
Green panel filter
De-catted center section
Large bore rear silencer (which I am changing soon)
It also has a horrible VTA dump valve (also in process of changing)
If I accelerate with anything more than about 50% throttle the car loses all power (not electrical). It then recovers if I back off a little.
I have done a search on here. Most common fault seems to be a faulty MAF sensor however there also seems to be an associated idle problem which I don't have.
I have checked the MAF in that if you disconnect the cable from it whilst the engine is running the engine within about a second will stall. Could this still be the problem?
Any advice. Lambda sensor perhaps? What is it and where is it?
Only had the car two weeks - it ran really well when I got with the all the mods mentioned above. The only thing I have since changed is the green replacement panel filter as it had some sort of induction kit on it instead of the standard air box.
Appreciate any help chaps.
Thanks.
Last edited by BrettC; 09 November 2006 at 02:10 PM.
#3
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Thanks mate. I'll look into your suggestions.
Planning to clean out the boost solenoid tomorrow as well.
Is there any chance that because I changed the induction kit (no heat shielding or anything) for a green replacement panel filter that with the increased air intake and the de-cat exhaust I am now getting an overboost problem?
Should I consider a dawes device or equivalent in order to be able to set the boost just below fuel cut off? Or should I just put the cat back on?
Obviously want as much performance as poss but definately not with the sacrifice of reliability or potential engine damage.
Cheers
Planning to clean out the boost solenoid tomorrow as well.
Is there any chance that because I changed the induction kit (no heat shielding or anything) for a green replacement panel filter that with the increased air intake and the de-cat exhaust I am now getting an overboost problem?
Should I consider a dawes device or equivalent in order to be able to set the boost just below fuel cut off? Or should I just put the cat back on?
Obviously want as much performance as poss but definately not with the sacrifice of reliability or potential engine damage.
Cheers
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g'day ive got a 99 wrx wagon, and had a problem that sounds just like yours.
the car ran perfectly fine, no problems at all till i floored it, then after 4000rpm at full throttle there was a major stutter, tried cleaning boost hoses and solinoid ,nothing, changed leeds,coilpack,wastegate actuator still nothing.
turned out the plugs were stuffed, changed them, now its perfect
the car ran perfectly fine, no problems at all till i floored it, then after 4000rpm at full throttle there was a major stutter, tried cleaning boost hoses and solinoid ,nothing, changed leeds,coilpack,wastegate actuator still nothing.
turned out the plugs were stuffed, changed them, now its perfect
#7
Hi there,
Similar problems... although I had gizzmo with mbc... so mine was the fuel that I was using not good enough for the boost...
However, if ure pretty standard, I guess plugs/leads... if plugs, get plats ngk6/7 the higher the colder and gap to 0.7mm
if leads normally have a crack on them, u need to carefully glue them together and then use a high voltage silicon gel - if u know people who are paramedics, they should have some and put a little gel in there.
Hope this helps u
S
Similar problems... although I had gizzmo with mbc... so mine was the fuel that I was using not good enough for the boost...
However, if ure pretty standard, I guess plugs/leads... if plugs, get plats ngk6/7 the higher the colder and gap to 0.7mm
if leads normally have a crack on them, u need to carefully glue them together and then use a high voltage silicon gel - if u know people who are paramedics, they should have some and put a little gel in there.
Hope this helps u
S
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#8
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Thanks guys for all your help. Appreciate it.
I was lucky in this instance - I cleaned the boost solenoid and all is well.
Initially when turning on the ignition there was no click from the solenoid, after the clean, you can hear the click and the overboosting has stopped.
Thanks again
Brett
I was lucky in this instance - I cleaned the boost solenoid and all is well.
Initially when turning on the ignition there was no click from the solenoid, after the clean, you can hear the click and the overboosting has stopped.
Thanks again
Brett
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