Fitting v 6 spoiler to classic boot
08 November 2006, 11:24 PM
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Fitting v 6 spoiler to classic boot
i have just recieved a v6 spoiler for my classic , and im puzzled to how it fits the boot,looking at the exsisting mid level spoiler this has 2 screws in each end, there is no holes in the new spoiler , no fixings came with it at all. it is a two piece spoiler with two bolts at each end to fasten the two parts together but no way of fixing the lower part to the boot?
dont fancy having to drill the boot lid as i thought these spoilers just fitted to the existing holes? a friend suggested using a fixing compound, forget the name of it but he says it will break the spoiler before the fix will give way. might this be the only way to fix it on?
dont fancy having to drill the boot lid as i thought these spoilers just fitted to the existing holes? a friend suggested using a fixing compound, forget the name of it but he says it will break the spoiler before the fix will give way. might this be the only way to fix it on?
09 November 2006, 08:49 AM
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do not just use a sealant when fitting a spoiler, at speed it will come off over a period of time if nothing else is holding it on. I personally would send the spoiler back, there are plenty of suppliers out there that can supply the same spoiler with fitting kits etc. I got mine (I think) from Sil Imperial, it bolts up using the existing holes in the boost. You can use some kind of fixing agent//sealant with the bolts for added security.
09 November 2006, 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by jaytc2003
do not just use a sealant when fitting a spoiler, at speed it will come off over a period of time if nothing else is holding it on. I personally would send the spoiler back, there are plenty of suppliers out there that can supply the same spoiler with fitting kits etc. I got mine (I think) from Sil Imperial, it bolts up using the existing holes in the boost. You can use some kind of fixing agent//sealant with the bolts for added security.
its too late to send it back as its sanded down ready to paint,think i will have to drill four holes in the boot lid and use some plasterboard fixing bolts with the fixing compound as well . this should ensure it wont come off.
09 November 2006, 12:23 PM
#5
Firstly, have you got the old spoiler OFF the car? The reason I ask is that there were THREE bolts per side on mine ('98 UK ), one of which, per side, is hidden under the rubber bump-stops on each side. The bump-stops just pull off and refit the same way.
My new spoiler came with TEN fixing bolts, and TEN large washers:
Three per side which used the OE holes in the boot. The base of the spoiler had threaded inserts sets in it to accept the bolts, but most were hard to see as they had thin skins of resin over them. Once located and cleaned up, they were fine.
The other four bolts were to hold it together, two per side, again into threaded inserts in the TOP half, through holes in the bottom half. You needed a 10mm socket on a longish extension bar to do 'em up.
If yours has no bolts, I strongly suggest you,
a) check the packaging, and then,
b) ring the supplier.
I had mine painted in bits, then put it together with some PURIFLEX (aka CICAFLEX) sealant in between. This stuff is specially made for cars, and any excess can be wiped off before it goes off with paper towels and white spirit.
I also replaced the screws holding the LED brakelight with stainless ones
I then enlisted the help of two other people. I placed the spoiler where it should go, and marked the bootlid at various points with a water based marker pen.
I then Puriflexed round all holes and around the spoiler edge for good sealing, placed it, got the helpers to hold it against the marks with the boot open, and did up the bolts, starting with the middle one each side to hold it in place. You can move it to fine tune position for about 5 minutes, while the bolts aren't completely tight, then you'd better get the sealant off pretty quick or it's there forever
DON'T overtighten bolts, as you'll just tear the inserts out of the holes. Once it's gone off, the sealant will hold it.
DON'T use silicone, it's not good enough. It'll come away, grow mould etc etc and cause loads of problems.
HTH, Alcazar
My new spoiler came with TEN fixing bolts, and TEN large washers:
Three per side which used the OE holes in the boot. The base of the spoiler had threaded inserts sets in it to accept the bolts, but most were hard to see as they had thin skins of resin over them. Once located and cleaned up, they were fine.
The other four bolts were to hold it together, two per side, again into threaded inserts in the TOP half, through holes in the bottom half. You needed a 10mm socket on a longish extension bar to do 'em up.
If yours has no bolts, I strongly suggest you,
a) check the packaging, and then,
b) ring the supplier.
I had mine painted in bits, then put it together with some PURIFLEX (aka CICAFLEX) sealant in between. This stuff is specially made for cars, and any excess can be wiped off before it goes off with paper towels and white spirit.
I also replaced the screws holding the LED brakelight with stainless ones
I then enlisted the help of two other people. I placed the spoiler where it should go, and marked the bootlid at various points with a water based marker pen.
I then Puriflexed round all holes and around the spoiler edge for good sealing, placed it, got the helpers to hold it against the marks with the boot open, and did up the bolts, starting with the middle one each side to hold it in place. You can move it to fine tune position for about 5 minutes, while the bolts aren't completely tight, then you'd better get the sealant off pretty quick or it's there forever
DON'T overtighten bolts, as you'll just tear the inserts out of the holes. Once it's gone off, the sealant will hold it.
DON'T use silicone, it's not good enough. It'll come away, grow mould etc etc and cause loads of problems.
HTH, Alcazar
09 November 2006, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by EVO172
its too late to send it back as its sanded down ready to paint,think i will have to drill four holes in the boot lid and use some plasterboard fixing bolts with the fixing compound as well . this should ensure it wont come off.
Once I had assembled my spoiler (2 piece) I then used different bolts (shorter) these had no head on them they were just threaded. I inserted // loctited // tightened the threaded bolts into the spoiler and left it overnight (was getting dark anyway) Once firmly locked I then removed my old spoiler again, and then simply dropped on the new spoiler (bit more involved I used some foam padding that I got with the spoiler and some grommets as well) and then put the relevant washer and nut on the underside and tightened it up evenly across the 4 bolts.
It is also easier with a few people doing it!!!
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09 November 2006, 03:35 PM
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Thanks for the advice guys, this must be a real cheap copy, because their is 4 holes total in the spoiler, 2 at each end, these are to connect the 2 parts to each other, their is no other fixing holes, i have e mailed the supplier and have not had a reply yet,(suprise suprise) i purchased it of flea-bay and its come from Germany (the bloke will be getting neg feedback if not sorted)
sometimes it just might pay to buy an expensive one from a repupatable firm
but i will have to carry on with this one now as i have sanded it down,
as to removal of the old one, it looks like 2 allen bolts each side , (one of which is under the bungs) 1993 wrx import, and i havent removed it yet, waiting to get the new one ready first
(the bloke will be getting neg feedback if not sorted)sometimes it just might pay to buy an expensive one from a repupatable firm
but i will have to carry on with this one now as i have sanded it down,
as to removal of the old one, it looks like 2 allen bolts each side , (one of which is under the bungs) 1993 wrx import, and i havent removed it yet, waiting to get the new one ready first
10 November 2006, 02:46 AM
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it been a while but here goes.. these nightshifts are long... ::
If your going ahead with this spoiler I would strongly advise dry fitting it first before you spray paint it.
The skin of the spoiler is too thin for regular self tapper screws/ inserts unless your using a bonding agent also.
If you have a helper ignore next paragraph:
Attach a weight to overcome the spring tension on the bootlid, It makes life easier, a 1 gallon contain with water attached with light rope, adjust the quantity of water in the container to balance the bootlid. Because you will have to get to the inside while checking positioning on the outside, and if the boot pops up and the spoiler slides down toward the back window, you will mess your spoiler and the bootlid.
Remove old spoiler 2 bolts to be seen, 2 hidden under the rubber bungs.
Fit the new spoiler and see what the bow is like in the middle, if it’s excessive, you will need to drill a centre hole *.
Clean up all the paint work under the old spoiler, attach a few small pieces of doublesided padded tape to the new spoiler where it touches the boot ( the outer edges) This is to hold in place while your aligning for marking/drilling, and stop it sliding, but still be able to pull it off easy after.
run some masking tape around the 4 holes, ( for later) and also a patch around the centre *.
The 4 holes originally in the bootlid, mark these on the spoiler from the inside (pierce the tape 1st).
Check that the brake light fits ok with the spoiler fitted! !!!
The wire for this may need another hole, or may come out the the end like the OE types
Double check alignment and double checked your hole markings.
*Drill the centre hole with a small and short (3mm ) bit, try and judge this so you can get a socket on the nut later . drill right through the bootlid and the 1st layer of the spoiler, be careful not to go through the upper layer of the spoiler!!
recheck that the 4 original hole still align with your marks. *enlarge the hole in the middle of the bootlid to 8mm, to give you adjustment later.
With the spoiler on a workbench :
Drill the 4 holes in the spoiler, *and enlarge the centre one from earlier to 6 mm also.
Use m6 flathead ( gutter bolts, wide flat heads), not hex heads.drill a large hole around an inch or 2 away from each 6mm hole, cut a slot to link each large hole to each 6mm hole,
a dremmel is handy for this . The large hole must be able to let the head of the gutter bolt pass through.
Put some epoxy resin on the underside of the heads of each bolt, and push the heads through the large hole,put plenty on, but keep the threads clean, then slide them along the slot to where the 6mm holes were drilled. Put some cling film gaskets down over the bolt threads to stop the resin squeezing out and sticking to the bootlid .
Before the resin cures, refit the spoiler putting cling film or some type of non stick thin material between the boot and the doublesided tape pads from earlier, so you can pull if off again next morning.
Tighten the 5 bolts finger tight,evenly. If the resin get past it should only stick to the masking tape.
have some spare nuts and a magnetic pickup tool handy as you may drop a few.
Next day or when resin sets, remove, and using more resin, attach some flat fibreglass or plastic to close the large holes, and the slots, for strength.
You can add more resin to the bolts after the initial resin to hold them in placed has cured.
Refit your old spoiler, until your new one is painted.
When your spoiler is painted add some black adhesive foam ( thin draught excluder type) to the base of the spoiler to stop rubbing paint off of the bootlid and spoiler.
Rub a light silicone bead around all bootlid holes,let it cure partially, touch up any bare metal ( centre hole) with paint
Use a rubber washer and large steel washer for the centre hole when fitting, tighten the centre nut ‘til the height is right ( til you have a nice gap), then put silicone over the exposed threads to stop the nut loosening.
Be careful not to chip the spoiler fresh paint when fitting the brake light
:If your going ahead with this spoiler I would strongly advise dry fitting it first before you spray paint it.
The skin of the spoiler is too thin for regular self tapper screws/ inserts unless your using a bonding agent also.
If you have a helper ignore next paragraph:
Attach a weight to overcome the spring tension on the bootlid, It makes life easier, a 1 gallon contain with water attached with light rope, adjust the quantity of water in the container to balance the bootlid. Because you will have to get to the inside while checking positioning on the outside, and if the boot pops up and the spoiler slides down toward the back window, you will mess your spoiler and the bootlid.
Remove old spoiler 2 bolts to be seen, 2 hidden under the rubber bungs.
Fit the new spoiler and see what the bow is like in the middle, if it’s excessive, you will need to drill a centre hole *.
Clean up all the paint work under the old spoiler, attach a few small pieces of doublesided padded tape to the new spoiler where it touches the boot ( the outer edges) This is to hold in place while your aligning for marking/drilling, and stop it sliding, but still be able to pull it off easy after.
run some masking tape around the 4 holes, ( for later) and also a patch around the centre *.
The 4 holes originally in the bootlid, mark these on the spoiler from the inside (pierce the tape 1st).
Check that the brake light fits ok with the spoiler fitted! !!!
The wire for this may need another hole, or may come out the the end like the OE types
Double check alignment and double checked your hole markings.
*Drill the centre hole with a small and short (3mm ) bit, try and judge this so you can get a socket on the nut later . drill right through the bootlid and the 1st layer of the spoiler, be careful not to go through the upper layer of the spoiler!!
recheck that the 4 original hole still align with your marks. *enlarge the hole in the middle of the bootlid to 8mm, to give you adjustment later.
With the spoiler on a workbench :
Drill the 4 holes in the spoiler, *and enlarge the centre one from earlier to 6 mm also.
Use m6 flathead ( gutter bolts, wide flat heads), not hex heads.drill a large hole around an inch or 2 away from each 6mm hole, cut a slot to link each large hole to each 6mm hole,
a dremmel is handy for this . The large hole must be able to let the head of the gutter bolt pass through.
Put some epoxy resin on the underside of the heads of each bolt, and push the heads through the large hole,put plenty on, but keep the threads clean, then slide them along the slot to where the 6mm holes were drilled. Put some cling film gaskets down over the bolt threads to stop the resin squeezing out and sticking to the bootlid .
Before the resin cures, refit the spoiler putting cling film or some type of non stick thin material between the boot and the doublesided tape pads from earlier, so you can pull if off again next morning.
Tighten the 5 bolts finger tight,evenly. If the resin get past it should only stick to the masking tape.
have some spare nuts and a magnetic pickup tool handy as you may drop a few.
Next day or when resin sets, remove, and using more resin, attach some flat fibreglass or plastic to close the large holes, and the slots, for strength.
You can add more resin to the bolts after the initial resin to hold them in placed has cured.
Refit your old spoiler, until your new one is painted.
When your spoiler is painted add some black adhesive foam ( thin draught excluder type) to the base of the spoiler to stop rubbing paint off of the bootlid and spoiler.
Rub a light silicone bead around all bootlid holes,let it cure partially, touch up any bare metal ( centre hole) with paint
Use a rubber washer and large steel washer for the centre hole when fitting, tighten the centre nut ‘til the height is right ( til you have a nice gap), then put silicone over the exposed threads to stop the nut loosening.
Be careful not to chip the spoiler fresh paint when fitting the brake light
10 November 2006, 10:45 AM
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Thanks for that Danc, much apriechiated ,will bare all that in mind, if i can remember it all
we are using a flex bond adhiesive, used in the trade to stick lorry wind deflectors on which should be strong, and will use some screws as well, but very good guide you wrote there,
we are using a flex bond adhiesive, used in the trade to stick lorry wind deflectors on which should be strong, and will use some screws as well, but very good guide you wrote there,
10 November 2006, 05:07 PM
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Wrote to the suppier, asking where the fitting kit was , here's the reply
QUOTE
hi,
we dont send fitting kit with this spoiler. you need to use special glue to fit this to the boot.
QUOTE
so i guess this one is not the usual type, no wonder it was cheap
QUOTE
hi,
we dont send fitting kit with this spoiler. you need to use special glue to fit this to the boot.
QUOTE
so i guess this one is not the usual type, no wonder it was cheap
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