drewruberry

iTrader: (2)

Hi all,

I bought an oil catch can and have been reading up in hear on how to fit it. Now i dont have a clue. My head feels like its going to burst.

my car is a 1993 wrx import so i thought i was only suppost to use the two pipes that run into the inlet pipe after the maf that runs to the turbo?

can anyone help at all. all info would be appreciated and pics would just make my day.

P.S ive inclosed the link to ebay where theres one excatly the same as mine. Notice in the pic of the can that the blue pipes are up facing down is this just for carrage should i turn them up the other way?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/OIL-CATCH-CAN-...QQcmdZViewItem

silent running

I think the first thing to get your head round is why you are doing the mod at all and how the existing system already works. Once you understand that then you can just about do the job without instructions. Apologies if I'm going over stuff you already know but hopefully it'll help.

I don't know how a 93 differs from my 98 so I'll just go over the principles as I know them. Basically as standard oil vapour and pressure accumulates in the crankcase and the cam covers on either side. Most of the time the cam covers draw in fresh air from the inlet tract and the crankcase vents out through the throttle body PCV valve (when in vacuum) or straight to the inlet tract (when in boost). This results in either small amount of oil vapour burnt off in normal driving or when caning it, a greater amount of oil vapour being pulled into the inlet tract, through the turbo, through the intercooler and then burnt off in the cylinders. Whichever way you look at it you're burning oil and reducing the efficiency in your cylinders, although from a green point of view it's a lot better.

So the idea is to either duct these vents straight out to atmosphere, via a catch tank to collect the liquid oil as it condenses out of vapour; or to use a catch tank as an intercept point, cleaning the 'oily' air before letting it be drawn back in to the inlet. This maintains a closed 'green' system.

People choose slightly different ways of doing it, hence why you can't find one definitive answer to how it's done. I first of all disconnected the worst offender which was the pipe from crankcase breather to inlet pipe. I rerouted this through a remote catch tank and back into the inlet pipe. However I still found I was getting a lot of vapour in the intercooler, throttle body and inlet manifold. So I blocked the PCV valve as well and routed all the breathers into the catch tank and back to the inlet. I'll have a look in a few weeks and see how effective it's been in keeping the inlet tract oil-free, although I think maybe I should have put a one-way valve in somewhere to allow the crankcase breathers to draw clean air in still.

drewruberry

iTrader: (2)

Im just back a couple of weeks from getting my car mapped by andy F and it was him that advised me to do it will a few other mods as it would be useful.

I am currently running 1.4 bar at full boost and around 320bhp so anything that will help even alittle in keeping the car running smoothly is always good.

And i had noticed a bit of oil when i changed to an induction kit while adding my fmic.

drewruberry

iTrader: (2)

Anyone with any pointers. Do i just remove the two pipes going to the intake pipe before the turbo and reroute them to the catch can and fit a breather on it and then block up the orginal holes?

James Neill

iTrader: (1)

You need to register - but this post has all the info you need

http://p1woc.co.uk/postnuke/index.ph...wtopic&t=11600

drewruberry

iTrader: (2)

hi, thanks for the reply but thats for newer model mine is 93 and differnet?

Cheers Drew

drewruberry

iTrader: (2)

Any one done this to an earlie wrx?