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guide to remove and port std headers?

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Old 16 August 2006, 05:46 PM
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sharpydoo
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Default guide to remove and port std headers?

im looking for instructions on how to remove the standard headers, port and wrap them, and then replace. and is it worth replacing the uppipe?

the car is a MY00 UK.

can anyone help?
Old 16 August 2006, 06:51 PM
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ticky
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There was a good diy porting headers thread on Nasioc with pictures (try search)
Remove heatsheild off headers (drivers side) This will give you better access to the 2 nut & bolts that hold the cast headers to the up-pipe.
Then undo the 3 x 14mm nuts, both heads.
There might be a bracket off the centre pipe heatsheild thats needs undoing to but I cannot remember for sure.
Removing the headers is not that difficult.

Ticky
Old 16 August 2006, 10:03 PM
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sharpydoo
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its mainly the up pipe ive heard isnt so easy, would i need to ugrade this if im just porting the original headers?

Originally Posted by ticky
There was a good diy porting headers thread on Nasioc with pictures (try search)
Remove heatsheild off headers (drivers side) This will give you better access to the 2 nut & bolts that hold the cast headers to the up-pipe.
Then undo the 3 x 14mm nuts, both heads.
There might be a bracket off the centre pipe heatsheild thats needs undoing to but I cannot remember for sure.
Removing the headers is not that difficult.

Ticky
Old 17 August 2006, 09:10 AM
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ClintUK
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Very well worth doing. With just OEM headers and a sports cat wide throat down pipe I got a genuine 34bhp gain.

It's not too hard as long as you have time as grinding with 'normal tools' does take a while.

Take off headers and up pipe. I've only ever had the up pipe off when the turbo's off too, don't think you can do it without to be honest as I don't think it fitts through the bottom, you have to take it out the top.

If you can get grinding tools at 10 000rpm ish rather than 3000 rpm drill speed do so, but most of the ones I know about need compressed air, so settle in for some noisey hours in the garage.

Keep the gaskets from the headers etc... and it will be plainly obvious what needs doing.

Every joint needs doing, but you only really need to do the receive side, ie the hole the gas is flowing into should be bigger than it's flowing out of. (There are gains to be made by perfectly matching both sides but I suspect 2-3bhp only?)

If you do do this and have the turbo off, it it worth doing the turbo inlet too.


Bit of a bugger this as I've got ported OEM headers on mine and I had stared to do my old ones, found out the link pipe was split so advertised my bits, but no one wanted them.

But it is well worth doing. Good improvement and you keep turbo spool up low in the rev range. Some after market headers have a larger volume which slows the gas and cools it, which means the turbo doesn't spool till later in the rev range.

PM me with your email address, I have some photos of before and after exhaust bits, I'm sure it'll inspire

Clint
Old 17 August 2006, 04:54 PM
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sharpydoo
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Originally Posted by ClintUK
Very well worth doing. With just OEM headers and a sports cat wide throat down pipe I got a genuine 34bhp gain.

It's not too hard as long as you have time as grinding with 'normal tools' does take a while.

Take off headers and up pipe. I've only ever had the up pipe off when the turbo's off too, don't think you can do it without to be honest as I don't think it fitts through the bottom, you have to take it out the top.

If you can get grinding tools at 10 000rpm ish rather than 3000 rpm drill speed do so, but most of the ones I know about need compressed air, so settle in for some noisey hours in the garage.

Keep the gaskets from the headers etc... and it will be plainly obvious what needs doing.

Every joint needs doing, but you only really need to do the receive side, ie the hole the gas is flowing into should be bigger than it's flowing out of. (There are gains to be made by perfectly matching both sides but I suspect 2-3bhp only?)

If you do do this and have the turbo off, it it worth doing the turbo inlet too.


Bit of a bugger this as I've got ported OEM headers on mine and I had stared to do my old ones, found out the link pipe was split so advertised my bits, but no one wanted them.

But it is well worth doing. Good improvement and you keep turbo spool up low in the rev range. Some after market headers have a larger volume which slows the gas and cools it, which means the turbo doesn't spool till later in the rev range.

PM me with your email address, I have some photos of before and after exhaust bits, I'm sure it'll inspire

Clint
pm sent, thanks
Old 17 August 2006, 05:47 PM
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Eprom
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Originally Posted by sharpydoo
im looking for instructions on how to remove the standard headers, port and wrap them, and then replace. and is it worth replacing the uppipe?

the car is a MY00 UK.

can anyone help?
I have just done this 2 weeks ago, but have not had time to write this up, and have some photos of how it is done, you need good tools for the grinding, a die grinder and Diamond cutting bits is what I used, and this makes the job much easier and more controllable.

The down pipe has to come off, to get at one of the nuts for the up pipe to be removed.
Use a six sided socket not twelve, as the nuts are tight, and you may well round them off if not careful.
The main problem I came across was getting the heat shielding off to get at the manifold bolts, this shielding covers them up, every nut will be rusted solid on the shielding, I ground them off in the end.
The up pipe can be taken off from below, the turbo stays in place, but you will have to remove the nut that connects the engine mount to the cross member, you then jack up the engine on the drivers side to allow enough room to remove the up pipe.
I would recommend one of Harvey’s up pipe

PM me if you need any advice.
Old 17 August 2006, 07:11 PM
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jasonius
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Worst bit is removing the heat shield lugs, a real PITA..!

I suppose you could leave them on, but it makes wrapping them a bit easier and they look much better. Also saves a bit of weight, oooh around 300g at least, lol..!

I'll try and find the post I did when I did them as there are a few pics and some advice from other members..

Having them fitted in a few weeks along with turbo, injectors and fuel pump. Then off to BRD the next day for remap..

Trending Topics

Old 17 August 2006, 07:13 PM
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Here you go:

https://www.scoobynet.com/hows-my-po...hlight=Porting
Old 17 August 2006, 08:26 PM
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T5OLF
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Originally Posted by jasonius
Worst bit is removing the heat shield lugs, a real PITA..!

I suppose you could leave them on, but it makes wrapping them a bit easier and they look much better. Also saves a bit of weight, oooh around 300g at least, lol..!

I'll try and find the post I did when I did them as there are a few pics and some advice from other members..

Having them fitted in a few weeks along with turbo, injectors and fuel pump. Then off to BRD the next day for remap..
Just use a small angle grinder to remove lugs with a cutting disc, should have then off in no time.
Old 17 August 2006, 08:30 PM
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T5OLF
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Mine

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...loys/SN013.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...loys/SN017.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...loys/SN015.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...loys/SN014.jpg

Only port in the direction of flow.

I would buy one of Harvey Smiths up-pipes rather that porting your OE one
Old 18 August 2006, 12:29 PM
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scoobysmiff
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Originally Posted by T5OLF
I brought a full set of Harvey's ported headers, it saved me loads of hassle
and i know they have been done right as well
Old 19 August 2006, 12:10 PM
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scooby4181
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Default harvey smith ported headers

any ideas how much to expect to pay for a set inc up pipe,also anyone got any contact details ?
Old 19 August 2006, 12:54 PM
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scoobysmiff
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harveysmith1@btopenworld.com

send him an email with your request and he will get back to you with prices and availability
Old 22 March 2007, 04:37 PM
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Bendalyn
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Default this is a good guide

P+P Exhaust Manifold
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