guide to remove and port std headers?
#1
guide to remove and port std headers?
im looking for instructions on how to remove the standard headers, port and wrap them, and then replace. and is it worth replacing the uppipe?
the car is a MY00 UK.
can anyone help?
the car is a MY00 UK.
can anyone help?
#2
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There was a good diy porting headers thread on Nasioc with pictures (try search)
Remove heatsheild off headers (drivers side) This will give you better access to the 2 nut & bolts that hold the cast headers to the up-pipe.
Then undo the 3 x 14mm nuts, both heads.
There might be a bracket off the centre pipe heatsheild thats needs undoing to but I cannot remember for sure.
Removing the headers is not that difficult.
Ticky
Remove heatsheild off headers (drivers side) This will give you better access to the 2 nut & bolts that hold the cast headers to the up-pipe.
Then undo the 3 x 14mm nuts, both heads.
There might be a bracket off the centre pipe heatsheild thats needs undoing to but I cannot remember for sure.
Removing the headers is not that difficult.
Ticky
#3
its mainly the up pipe ive heard isnt so easy, would i need to ugrade this if im just porting the original headers?
Originally Posted by ticky
There was a good diy porting headers thread on Nasioc with pictures (try search)
Remove heatsheild off headers (drivers side) This will give you better access to the 2 nut & bolts that hold the cast headers to the up-pipe.
Then undo the 3 x 14mm nuts, both heads.
There might be a bracket off the centre pipe heatsheild thats needs undoing to but I cannot remember for sure.
Removing the headers is not that difficult.
Ticky
Remove heatsheild off headers (drivers side) This will give you better access to the 2 nut & bolts that hold the cast headers to the up-pipe.
Then undo the 3 x 14mm nuts, both heads.
There might be a bracket off the centre pipe heatsheild thats needs undoing to but I cannot remember for sure.
Removing the headers is not that difficult.
Ticky
#4
Very well worth doing. With just OEM headers and a sports cat wide throat down pipe I got a genuine 34bhp gain.
It's not too hard as long as you have time as grinding with 'normal tools' does take a while.
Take off headers and up pipe. I've only ever had the up pipe off when the turbo's off too, don't think you can do it without to be honest as I don't think it fitts through the bottom, you have to take it out the top.
If you can get grinding tools at 10 000rpm ish rather than 3000 rpm drill speed do so, but most of the ones I know about need compressed air, so settle in for some noisey hours in the garage.
Keep the gaskets from the headers etc... and it will be plainly obvious what needs doing.
Every joint needs doing, but you only really need to do the receive side, ie the hole the gas is flowing into should be bigger than it's flowing out of. (There are gains to be made by perfectly matching both sides but I suspect 2-3bhp only?)
If you do do this and have the turbo off, it it worth doing the turbo inlet too.
Bit of a bugger this as I've got ported OEM headers on mine and I had stared to do my old ones, found out the link pipe was split so advertised my bits, but no one wanted them.
But it is well worth doing. Good improvement and you keep turbo spool up low in the rev range. Some after market headers have a larger volume which slows the gas and cools it, which means the turbo doesn't spool till later in the rev range.
PM me with your email address, I have some photos of before and after exhaust bits, I'm sure it'll inspire
Clint
It's not too hard as long as you have time as grinding with 'normal tools' does take a while.
Take off headers and up pipe. I've only ever had the up pipe off when the turbo's off too, don't think you can do it without to be honest as I don't think it fitts through the bottom, you have to take it out the top.
If you can get grinding tools at 10 000rpm ish rather than 3000 rpm drill speed do so, but most of the ones I know about need compressed air, so settle in for some noisey hours in the garage.
Keep the gaskets from the headers etc... and it will be plainly obvious what needs doing.
Every joint needs doing, but you only really need to do the receive side, ie the hole the gas is flowing into should be bigger than it's flowing out of. (There are gains to be made by perfectly matching both sides but I suspect 2-3bhp only?)
If you do do this and have the turbo off, it it worth doing the turbo inlet too.
Bit of a bugger this as I've got ported OEM headers on mine and I had stared to do my old ones, found out the link pipe was split so advertised my bits, but no one wanted them.
But it is well worth doing. Good improvement and you keep turbo spool up low in the rev range. Some after market headers have a larger volume which slows the gas and cools it, which means the turbo doesn't spool till later in the rev range.
PM me with your email address, I have some photos of before and after exhaust bits, I'm sure it'll inspire
Clint
#5
Originally Posted by ClintUK
Very well worth doing. With just OEM headers and a sports cat wide throat down pipe I got a genuine 34bhp gain.
It's not too hard as long as you have time as grinding with 'normal tools' does take a while.
Take off headers and up pipe. I've only ever had the up pipe off when the turbo's off too, don't think you can do it without to be honest as I don't think it fitts through the bottom, you have to take it out the top.
If you can get grinding tools at 10 000rpm ish rather than 3000 rpm drill speed do so, but most of the ones I know about need compressed air, so settle in for some noisey hours in the garage.
Keep the gaskets from the headers etc... and it will be plainly obvious what needs doing.
Every joint needs doing, but you only really need to do the receive side, ie the hole the gas is flowing into should be bigger than it's flowing out of. (There are gains to be made by perfectly matching both sides but I suspect 2-3bhp only?)
If you do do this and have the turbo off, it it worth doing the turbo inlet too.
Bit of a bugger this as I've got ported OEM headers on mine and I had stared to do my old ones, found out the link pipe was split so advertised my bits, but no one wanted them.
But it is well worth doing. Good improvement and you keep turbo spool up low in the rev range. Some after market headers have a larger volume which slows the gas and cools it, which means the turbo doesn't spool till later in the rev range.
PM me with your email address, I have some photos of before and after exhaust bits, I'm sure it'll inspire
Clint
It's not too hard as long as you have time as grinding with 'normal tools' does take a while.
Take off headers and up pipe. I've only ever had the up pipe off when the turbo's off too, don't think you can do it without to be honest as I don't think it fitts through the bottom, you have to take it out the top.
If you can get grinding tools at 10 000rpm ish rather than 3000 rpm drill speed do so, but most of the ones I know about need compressed air, so settle in for some noisey hours in the garage.
Keep the gaskets from the headers etc... and it will be plainly obvious what needs doing.
Every joint needs doing, but you only really need to do the receive side, ie the hole the gas is flowing into should be bigger than it's flowing out of. (There are gains to be made by perfectly matching both sides but I suspect 2-3bhp only?)
If you do do this and have the turbo off, it it worth doing the turbo inlet too.
Bit of a bugger this as I've got ported OEM headers on mine and I had stared to do my old ones, found out the link pipe was split so advertised my bits, but no one wanted them.
But it is well worth doing. Good improvement and you keep turbo spool up low in the rev range. Some after market headers have a larger volume which slows the gas and cools it, which means the turbo doesn't spool till later in the rev range.
PM me with your email address, I have some photos of before and after exhaust bits, I'm sure it'll inspire
Clint
#6
Originally Posted by sharpydoo
im looking for instructions on how to remove the standard headers, port and wrap them, and then replace. and is it worth replacing the uppipe?
the car is a MY00 UK.
can anyone help?
the car is a MY00 UK.
can anyone help?
The down pipe has to come off, to get at one of the nuts for the up pipe to be removed.
Use a six sided socket not twelve, as the nuts are tight, and you may well round them off if not careful.
The main problem I came across was getting the heat shielding off to get at the manifold bolts, this shielding covers them up, every nut will be rusted solid on the shielding, I ground them off in the end.
The up pipe can be taken off from below, the turbo stays in place, but you will have to remove the nut that connects the engine mount to the cross member, you then jack up the engine on the drivers side to allow enough room to remove the up pipe.
I would recommend one of Harvey’s up pipe
PM me if you need any advice.
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Worst bit is removing the heat shield lugs, a real PITA..!
I suppose you could leave them on, but it makes wrapping them a bit easier and they look much better. Also saves a bit of weight, oooh around 300g at least, lol..!
I'll try and find the post I did when I did them as there are a few pics and some advice from other members..
Having them fitted in a few weeks along with turbo, injectors and fuel pump. Then off to BRD the next day for remap..
I suppose you could leave them on, but it makes wrapping them a bit easier and they look much better. Also saves a bit of weight, oooh around 300g at least, lol..!
I'll try and find the post I did when I did them as there are a few pics and some advice from other members..
Having them fitted in a few weeks along with turbo, injectors and fuel pump. Then off to BRD the next day for remap..
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Originally Posted by jasonius
Worst bit is removing the heat shield lugs, a real PITA..!
I suppose you could leave them on, but it makes wrapping them a bit easier and they look much better. Also saves a bit of weight, oooh around 300g at least, lol..!
I'll try and find the post I did when I did them as there are a few pics and some advice from other members..
Having them fitted in a few weeks along with turbo, injectors and fuel pump. Then off to BRD the next day for remap..
I suppose you could leave them on, but it makes wrapping them a bit easier and they look much better. Also saves a bit of weight, oooh around 300g at least, lol..!
I'll try and find the post I did when I did them as there are a few pics and some advice from other members..
Having them fitted in a few weeks along with turbo, injectors and fuel pump. Then off to BRD the next day for remap..
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Mine
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...loys/SN013.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...loys/SN017.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...loys/SN015.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...loys/SN014.jpg
Only port in the direction of flow.
I would buy one of Harvey Smiths up-pipes rather that porting your OE one
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...loys/SN013.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...loys/SN017.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...loys/SN015.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...loys/SN014.jpg
Only port in the direction of flow.
I would buy one of Harvey Smiths up-pipes rather that porting your OE one
#11
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Originally Posted by T5OLF
Mine
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...loys/SN013.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...loys/SN017.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...loys/SN015.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...loys/SN014.jpg
Only port in the direction of flow.
I would buy one of Harvey Smiths up-pipes rather that porting your OE one
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...loys/SN013.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...loys/SN017.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...loys/SN015.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...loys/SN014.jpg
Only port in the direction of flow.
I would buy one of Harvey Smiths up-pipes rather that porting your OE one
and i know they have been done right as well
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harveysmith1@btopenworld.com
send him an email with your request and he will get back to you with prices and availability
send him an email with your request and he will get back to you with prices and availability
#14
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