StretchGSK

Hi

I recently noticed that I am only boosting to a max if 0.8 bar, instead of the the required 1.2 that a PPP should be making.
I was running NF and my IAM was at 16 during all my testing.

I have done almost as much trouble shooting as I can.
I have checked my wastgate default boost by bypassing the solenoid with a new piece of pipe and made a max of 0.35 bar.
The pipe from the turbo nipple does contain the "brass pill"

I have collected some log using TARI and found some possibly usefull info.
My ECU and my boost guage both indicate the same boost value.
The wastegate duty cycle is maxing out at about 66% which is similar to the logs I have from before the problem stated.
What is strange is that the injector duty cylcle peeks at over 100% even though the boost is at about 0.7
I am aware that the PPP causes inflated IDC but why when the the boost is so low?

I have spent a lot of time searching here on scoobynet and have since cleaned my solenoid etc with brake cleaner. While I was doing this I noticed that the solenoid did not click and spray out fluid like the post mentioned it would when I connected the green diagnostic plugs. I thus swapped it with a known working one and it also does not click...?

Does anyone have any idea what I can try next?
I noticed a lot of posts about problems with the MY01 PPP when they first came out.
Can the PPP chip possibly have stopped working?
Can I open the ECU and check anything myself?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated

Stretch

DARKDESTROYER9

could it be lost preasure due to the hot weather?

Spoiler

Hi,

I had similar problems with my bugeye, turns out to be a fuel problem...!!

I had been running it on SUL from my local Tesco...

Switched to Optimax, problem solved...!!

Weird but worth a try....

StretchGSK

I am in Cape Town, South Africa so it is mid winter at the moment.
So not a heat related problem.

DARKDESTROYER9

sorry didnt look where you was from, just its really hot here and my old escort cosworth had used to loose about 1.5psi boost in the summer due to the lack of moisture in the air

StretchGSK

I am adding NF Octane booster to my 95ULP so fuel is not the issue.

StretchGSK

I connected the green plugs again tonight and checked the voltage in the connector to the solenoid and there was a slight fluctuation in voltage during the cycles.

Advice please guys....?

vessy

The solenoid will only fluctuate with the green plug connected, mine doesn't at all until boost starts rising when driving.

Have you looked into a possable boost leak? this would explain lower pressure and higher IDC as the MAF will be sensing higher flow.

have you logged load? is that higher for the gear/revs you have seen before?

StretchGSK

I will be disconnecting the boost pipe from the wastegate actuator to check if I can make anything near 1BAR
This should tell me if I my Turbo/Piping setup can is actually possible of makeing the target boost and let me know if it is a leak or a boost control problem.

Good point about the IDC, I did not think of that.

Sadly I only found out about the load option about a week ago so have never logged it. Will do so now though

StretchGSK

Disconnected the pipe leading to the Waste gate actuator this afternoon.
Was really surprised how fast the car boosted.

Checked the logs and was able to hold 1bar easily.
So it seems I have a ECU type problem.
As I would not want to pay to have the PPP chip fixed I was wondering, would it be worth doing a EcuTek remap if I dont upgrade injectors and fuel pump?

vessy

You should get more than 1 bar with the wastegate disconnected! I had that pipe split on me and i was very quickly peaking at 1.3bar in 2nd before complete fuel cut!

were you controlling boost using throttle or were you WOT?

Just looked at your original post again, 0.35 BAR actuator pressure seems low too, normally get 0.5 bar sometimes more.

You don't have a leak in your pipework to the MAP and boost gauge do you? what Vac readings do you get for idle and coast?

StretchGSK

Thanks for the reply Vessy

As it is the first time I disconnected the boost pipe I was being VERY carefull with the throttle. Logs showed about 40% throttle opening at 1bar.

I was lying in bed last night and realised that the low actualtor pressure could mean a problem with the actuator spring or arm length.
Not hear of an arm "unadjusting" itself or a spring failing but will check those next, by swapping it out if I can find a donor.

VAC reading is about -0.2 bar at idle I think ( i am at the coast)
I will double check these values later today.

Does the boost guage take its own reading from a physical connection or is it reflecting the reading the ECU is taking?
Can you describe how/where this pipework runs?

vessy

Depends what type of boost gauge you have fitted, most normally are T'd into the line that feeds the MAP, you should be able to follow the pipework back from where it goes through the bulkhead.

-0.2 Bar is too low, you should have around -0.6 at least at idle, i get -0.7 idle and -0.8 coasting.

Sounds to me that you have a leak in that line somewhere, so your gauge and the ecu aren't seeing correct boost, i would get this checked out quickly as this will mess the fueling up and you could also be running much higher boost pressures than you should be, the boost solenoid is probably maxed out as it's trying desparatly to bring boost up, when in actual fact it's probably higher than it should be already.

This will also make sense for the 0.35 bar just on actuator pressure, intake was probably at 0.5+ bar but you are getting a lower reading.

StretchGSK

Vessy, it seems drinks will be on me if ever we meet!!
I traced the pipe from the bulkhead (boost guage) to a T piece to the left of the altenator.
The one side of T is connected to a nipple on intake manifold and the other goes under the manifold to what looks like a electronic item (MAP sensor?)
Now both pieces of the T were worn/perished and one even had a split in it.
I managed to replace these pipes and I now read the following:
Idle -0.7 (guage sits at the bottom of the thick zero line when not running)
coasting with throttle closed -0.9
WOT easily 1.2 (using only 95ULP)
Car also feels quite a bit more urgent, although this may just be in my head.
So all I have left to do is run a few logs and check if the timing and MAF etc to check what difference this has made.
And to think this connection has been faulty for almost 3 years, as I have never seem more than -.2 at idle

While checking these connections I noticed a pipe not connected to anything just below where the nipple in the intake manifold.
Any ideas?
I will pop in at my local dealer in the morning to have it looked at.

And just the other day I was wondering why the boost guage went all the way to -1 Now I know!

I will post again once I have run the logs and am sure everything is 100%

StretchGSK

Almost forgot.
Are you aware there is a brass restrictor pill in the pipe comming out of the intake manifold?

There is also a long brass restricotor leading to the boost guage.

Where are the various places to connect the boost guage?
What are the benefits?