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Old 20 June 2006, 10:23 AM
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speedracer
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Default Rear suspension top mount issues

A garage just quoted me 3 hours labour to change this, seems a lot to me! Is that fair amount of time to do this?
Old 20 June 2006, 11:53 AM
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Jolly Green Monster
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Remove trim to get to strut top
Loosen top nut on strut top mount
Loosen 3 top mount nuts

car up on ramp, axle standard etc..

rear wheel off.

Mark camber bolts (although rear is not adjustable standard but worth marking anyway) undo 19mm (from memory) camber bolts

Remove strut.. undo top nut (spring compressors maybe needed).

Remove and replace top mount

refit..

Think it took me 3~4hours to change all four struts on my car.

Would expect to be quoted 1~2hours labour...

Simon
Old 20 June 2006, 12:28 PM
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speedracer
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Thanks! I thought that sounded a bit excessive for one corner! Do you know if top mounts main dealer only parts?
Old 20 June 2006, 12:31 PM
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not sure.. I might be inclined to do both rears at the same time.
Old 23 June 2006, 07:17 PM
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speedracer
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Ok, I just spent £200 on changing the top mount and the phantom knocking noise is still there!

After a little experimentation on the way home I found that if I touch the brakes even just a tiny amount whilst going over a bump the knocking noise stops. I know its not the drop links as I had them replaced the week before and I've been under the car and can't find any bushings with any play in them. I'm also pretty sure that its not the struts as these are aftermarket jobs with fairly massive stantions and as theres no leak from them I dont think its that. After reading a few more old threads I'm now thinking that it could be loose pads, when I release the foot brake after parking on a hill and applying the handbrake the car rolls forwards a touch, I guess this could be a sign that the pads can move a fair bit in the calipers. Is this normal? I mean could that really make that much noise!?! Its a fairly loud rattling sound I'm having to put up with.
Old 24 June 2006, 02:37 PM
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On closer inspection today I found that the bolt that when undone allows you to swivel the top part of the caliper up to change the pads was not there, meaning the top half of the caliper was loose to clang about. Fingers crossed this was the cause of the problem! Just need to find a bolt now!
Old 24 June 2006, 03:54 PM
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have u just got the car, if so i would be going round the full thing with a torch and a torque wrench to make sure its all there and tight, last thing u need missing or loose stuff on a perf car!!!!!!!
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