Racy Jace

Hi, Can anyone tell me what happens when you remap a 1999 uk
car with the 3 port pipes wired up in this order.

1,a
2,b with 1mm restictor
3,c

Is that order correct? I think the garage my have got 2 hoses the wrong way round.

Jolly Green Monster

iTrader: (4)

1 and 2 are the wrong way around iirc..

probably struggled to make any boost?

Simon

scooby-tc

iTrader: (2)

mmm i wonder if thats where my boost problem is?

Racy Jace

Sounds about right! The duty cycle is set high and it strugles to hold boost.
I think it must have been a genuine mistake as it is a big company. The garage are looking at it next week so hopefully theyll spot it and sort it out.

It just worried me that I had the car remapped with a new turbo and the car felt slower!

Racy Jace

The pipes actually cross over when there tied together so it is easy to get them the wrong way round. It wouldnt supprise me if theres a few more cars that have had this happen to them too.

Scott.T

iTrader: (2)

My rule of thumb is 'T' for 'T'urbo, goes to 'T'op port
the rest is easy, middle to Actuator and bottom to intake

No need for the restrictor though IMHO,as I don't run one.
Anyone elses thoughts on the benefits of the restrictor though would be appreciated.

I know it's there to stop boost spikes in the early cars, but I've not had a proble running without (MY00/VF28).

silent running

Not sure if it's different on a MY99, but on my MY98 WRX, changing to a 3 port also meant dumping the restrictor as well. IIRC it doesn't run any restrictor at all, because the system is simpler in a way - no teeing off of pipes I mean. One port goes to the actuator (controls the boost), one goes to the compressor outlet (picks up the boost signal) and one goes to the inlet pipe (a 'breather' to vent off excess air). I found that when I changed my TD04 to a VF35, the standard 2 port couldn't handle the new turbo and let it overboost so I had to mess around with the restrictor. Once I got the three port plumbed in, the standard ECU controlled everything fine and kept the boost spot on.

If you're really stuck I'll go and have a proper look at what I've got going where. But I'm pretty sure that you shouldn't have a restrictor in there at all, it's not needed with the 3 port system. Someone will correct me if I'm wrong.

Jolly Green Monster

iTrader: (4)

Agree no restrictor is best..

everyone makes mistakes but surely they must have noticed the lack of boost etc and suspected perhaps it was wrong?

check the wiring too.. from memory the colours match up on the wiring..

Simon

Steppler

which way to the pipes go on a 2 port valve??

silent running

On a two port, one goes to the inlet as usual, but then you've only got one pipe going down to the turbo area. This then tees off - one line going to the actuator, and the other going to the compressor outlet. There is a restrictor in the compressor outlet side, which basically serves to give the solenoid a better chance of bleeding off sufficient boost. Without the restrictor in there, it's almost as if you've got the compressor outlet hooked up directly to the actuator, leaving you with boost at 8-10psi or whatever the spring pressure is.

Racy Jace

Thats what I would have thought. Im just being patient at the minute as the garage have been polite so Ill give them a chance to rectify the stiuation.

My car has got a VF28 turbo on too by the way. Im hoping once the garage change the pipes over and remap it again the car will be alot more responsive as it feels so slow at building up the boost.

If my car still feels slow at building up boost, would a Dawes device set at the correct boost levels help? Ive just heard good things about how much quicker the turbo spools up with these.

V5-APS

iTrader: (1)

I had a look at mine earlier and noticed that pipe 3 going into the actuator is split !!
Do i need the same exact diameter of pipe to put back on there, as it seems as though the std size is too small for the
actuator i have??

Racy Jace...good luck with your car

Scott.T

iTrader: (2)

If you've put a Vf28 on instead of a TD04, make sure you use the correct Banjo bolt on the oil feed. The VF one has a much much smaller hole and a filter in it. The VF doesn't need as much oil as the TD04 as it's a roller bearing. Using the TD04 banjo bolt can over oil the bearing and the extra pressure can lead to slower spool. However the VF will be slightly slower then the TD04 anyway.

thedrill

I have the 3 port solenoid on uk my98 wagon, it has the brass restrictor in the pipe..just changed my TD04 to Vf28 and that also came with restrictor in the pipework, albeit a bit smaller hole diameter.

Is this better removed?

silent running

Dunno...give it a try with the restrictor out. Presumably it will dull the spool up a little?

Racy Jace

ok. What is a Banjo bolt?
How do I check to see if its got the correct Bajo bolt
Can they easily be changed on the car without taking the Turbo off?

Cheers for the help guys its much appretiated

Scott.T

iTrader: (2)

The Banjo bolt is the bolt fixes the hard oil feed pipe into the oil supply just in front of the Turbo. Easy to remove but you will loose a little oil.
The VF Banjo has a very small hole in it, probably about 1-2mm.
The TD04 Banjo has a larger hole of around 3-4mm

With regard to the restrictor question.
If it's been mapped with the restrictor in place, it will have 2 effects deending where it's fitted. If it is in the supply hose i.e the hose that goes to the solenoid from the turbo. Removing it will reduce boost.
If it is in the return hose that goes from the very bottom of the solenoid to the inlet manifold. Removing it will increase boost and probably provoke fuel cut/overboost.

From memopry using a 2-port and restrictor, the VF is about 0.8mm and the TD04 around 1mm.
When I first fitted my VF running a TD04 based map I had to use the TD04 restrictor as the boost was too high running the smaller 0.8mm VF one.

I now run a 3-port with no restrictor.

Racy Jace

From what I can make out when the garage put my car back on the Dyno to check things they should now remove the restrictor and tweek the map so it will hold boost better

Would a well established tuning company spot if the Banjo bolt is wrong and change it to help spool up the turbo up?

Can these be bought easily and fitted after the mapping if it does turn out to have the wrong banjo bolt?

Scott.T

iTrader: (2)

Yes
Not without removing it
I got mine from Roger Clarke. But David at API will know what your talking about. Just mention VF Roller bearing Banjo with filter.

Racy Jace

Hi, I got my car remapped again and got 313bhp@ 1.25bar on a VF28

The pipes were the wrong way round which normally doesnt make a differance with the 3 ports the company use. On the Subaru ones it does though . My duty cycle has gone from 85% to 54% now and the boost comes on quicker and earlier so things are better

Cheers for youur help guys

Scott.T

iTrader: (2)

Cool, good power that, at 1.25bar. Must of been a cold day
54% sounds about right for 1.25bar. I'm running 58 on an apexi for 1.3bar.

Jolly Green Monster

iTrader: (4)

result!

billsandhu

Glad its all sorted now. Hows the drive???