kbahus

So I just got my swap up and running but it is throwing a code 22 cel, knock sensor. I tried three different knock sensors and could not get the cel to go away. Now all three were used but what are the chances of having three bad ones? I checked continuity on the wire and it has a good connection between the sensor and ecu. I can definetly feel it holding back the car at times and would really like to fix this issue. Does anyone have any suggestions that I could try?

Jolly Green Monster

iTrader: (4)

have you listen to / had the engine listened to with detcans and are therefore sure the knock sensor is not correctly picking up a lot of det?

Simon

kbahus

Simon, what is a detcan?

ozzy

Basically a set of earphones directly connected to the engine block so you can actually listen for det.

Your engine maybe detting badly and the knock sensor is picking it up and flagging an actual fault. i.e. the knock sensor is doing it's job.

kbahus

Good to know. I replaced the knock sensor today with a brand new one from Subaru, checked the wire to the ecu and the shield, and tried to reset the ecu by letting it sit with the battery disconnected but the cel was instantly back on when I turned the key on. It does run a LOT better with that new sensor though.

fireblade37

iTrader: (1)

Try unplugging your ecu overnight that's what i do to guarantee a reset.If that doesnt work then sorry cant help.

I think your not resetting the ecu properly, i have always been told that disconnecting the battery doesnt do a reset

Butty

iTrader: (2)

Did the CEL come back on without even driving the car?

nick

Jolly Green Monster

iTrader: (4)

yeah what Butty asked..

kbahus

Yes, it comes right back on without driving the car.

Jolly Green Monster

iTrader: (4)

connector clean and connecting correctly?

have you used the plugs to reset the ecu and clear the error codes?

Some of the following you know as you need to do so to get the error code in the first place but me lazy cut and paste

ECU Reset and Error codes
Turn OFF the ignition

Connect Error code Connectors and Test Mode Connectors :
2 black connectors under dash, connect black to black and 2 green connectors under dash, connect green to green, they are by your left knee when sat in the drivers seat and often taped back to the loom if they haven't been used before.

Turn ON ignition but don't start the engine

Engine Check lamp comes on

Press accelerator pedal to the floor

Then return it to the half-throttle position and hold it there for two seconds

Release foot off the pedal completely

Start the engine

Check engine light error code is indicated by Pulsing lamp

If an error is detected then Check the ECU Code

If no error is detected - drive the car sensible for a couple of minutes
i.e. until warm (do not use boost or high rpm!)

When the ECU has been reset the Check Engine Light will flash

An Error Code is indicated by a flashing check engine light
of varying length of flash,
a flash of around once a second is the okay code and indicates all is well.

If an error code is detected Check the ECU Code

Turn ignition OFF and Disconnect Connectors

If there is a fault Check the Appropriate Sensor



Error Codes
An Error code is defined as a slow flash followed by fast flash
i.e 2 slow and 3 fast = 23 Mass Airflow sensor.
A continuous on/off at the same speed is no fault found.


Code Fault
11 Crankshaft position sensor

12 Starter switch

13 Camshaft position sensor

21 Engine coolant temperature sensor

22 Knock sensor

23 Mass air flow sensor

24 Idle air control solenoid

31 Throttle position sensor

32 Oxygen sensor

33 Vehicle speed sensor 2

35 Purge control solenoid valve

42 Idle switch

44 Wastegate control solenoid valve

45 Pressure sensor / Pressure exchange solenoid valve

51 Neutral position switch

kbahus

Update:

Car sat for three days with no battery power, turned it on and almost instantly it throws the cel for code 22.

Today is the first day I was able to actually go out and drive it for a prolonged period of time and am running 93 octane (u.s. rated stuff). Noticed it only pulls 11psi of boost, sometimes it would creep up to 12-13 only in the top of third gear. I am supposed to have a 6k ecu but it may just be a 6k case with some other ecu inside as it should be running more boost, unless it is possible that it is pulling boost due to the cel? I thought for sure the first time I took it out it was pulling 13-14ish and felt much faster.

I really don't know what to do about the cel, as no matter what I do, including all mentioned above it does not go away. I am starting to think I have an ecu problem but I bet there is not another 6k ecu within 1,000 miles of me.

ReggieMY99

Your ecu is restricting boost to protect your engine

it does sound like you have massive det occuring hence the code 22

93 octane ?, no wonder your engine is detting like mad

what is 93 octane US rated exactly ?

jaytc2003

iTrader: (1)

think 93 over there is equivalent to our 97 there is a site that gives you the comparisons. The fuel in the usa is measured in mon and not ron.

Kbahus, reset the ecu using the procedure that JGM (Simon) says. It is the best way of resetting the ecu. Once reset, disconnect the connectors and go for a test drive and see if you get the cel coming back on.
I would be suprised if a standard ecu boosts at 14 psi but I am not an expert on ecus so could be wrong, would have thought 11 psi would be about right

kbahus

The conversion varies depending on a few things but it is around 97-99 typically. Plus i am running at 5,000' msl elevation so we can get away with less fuel, more timing, etc.

I will try that method one more time tonight and post the result.

kbahus

I tried that method twice and it is still on, it also started throwing a code 43 for the accerlator switch. I don't even have an accelerator switch on my swap. What is the function of this? Maybe this is causing some problems too.

jaytc2003

iTrader: (1)

http://www.saxonfields.freeserve.co....iag%20Page.htm

try that site is it quite comprehensive in error codes and the procedures etc