ive been a bit shy of asking previously but what is the purpose exactly of....

1. knocklink
2. gauges

what purpose do these serve
what car would they go on and why

i have a rough idea of what they do but could do some expert clarification.

 

the Knocklink is "supposed" to detect pre-ignition and knock via the knock sensors on the block, the problem is they are universal and have to be "callibrated" which is more trial and error than science so IMHO they are completely useless because if your car is already slightly knocking when you fit the knocklink you will be callibrating it to show as OK to start with which obviously will mask any knock..

 

Yep but there worth there weight in gold if callibrated with a set of det cans.I would'nt be without mine.

 

Personally I would spend my money on a Air/Fuel ratio gauge connected to a dedicated lambda.

 

IMHO if you have a standard car, use the recommended petrol and service it regularly, you don't need them.

 

As Turbotits states, when calibrated properly they are worth their weight in gold. A lot of people slag knocklink's because they have to be calibrated. Now how many who slag knocklink's have had their OE ECU or a after market ECU mapped (sorry CALIBRATED) to their engine. You don't fit new suspension and then not get the alignment set (another form of 'CALIBRATION'). I could go on for ages with different items on a car that are adjusted/ calibrated to get it working correctly. So lets not all turn **** and into PSLewis or his new identity.

 

Not really the same is it..

When you have an engine mapped or steering aligned you are working to various constants..

If you are not 100% sure of the state of your engine i.e. is there fueling problem and you are getting pre-ignition then you are not calibrating to a constant you are just making sure the lights dont come on which no matter what way you look at it seems a bit pointless?

 

See your point. but if as I am going to do which is get my car on a RR, after a bit of work has been done , to get the mapping settings calibrated then getting the knocklink calibrated at the same time at the quoted 75% of max power will be accuratley set. As the mapper is not going to have the engine detonating, therefore any det due to poor fuel. Be it out of the pumps or due to a fuel supply problem on the car will be detected and hopefully I will not need to rebuild the engine.

 

As long as the RR technician has tested your KS or connected a external mic/KS then that is the way to do it!

 

As I thought.