I have a `00 UK Turbo (last of the classics).
Full De-cat, Air filter and the older 801 ECU, which I feel made a noticeable difference.
Ive had this Dawaes for about 2 years, and have always had to be careful to back off the throttle to stop it over boosting.
1st and 2nd seem to be ok @ 1-bar, 3rd, 4th and 5th are prone to over boosting upto 1.2 -bar.
I was under the impression that the Dawes regulated the boost so it maintained a constant ceiling at all times.

Ive been driving on half throttle for two years now, always looking at the boost whilst driving. But had enough now, do I need to cut the boot in 1st and 2nd or is something wrong here??

Anyone help?

 

take the dawes off and get it mapped correctly,you can then use the car properly without having to drive at half throttle..... yes the dawes is a cheaper way of raising boost over a remap.... but its not exactly working better is it?

 

Better than nothing.. And a hell of alot better than £700 odd for a simple map.
Money for old rope.. Like the PPP.

Anyone offer any useful TECHNICAL advice??

 

No it shouldnt overboost, thats not normal

i use a dawes on mine and half for a year now, it holds 1.1 bar and thats what it has been set for, not less not more but exactly 1.1 bar

sounds like the spring inside is a bit loose that might be why its overboosting, the spring should stretch to what its set for not more, how do you know its set for 1.2 bar when its going over that limit in overboost ?

maybe it havent been set for 1.2 bar but more

 

That was useful technical advice, I'd argue that "nothing" is better than something which means that effectively you have to constantly watch the boost guage and drive on half throttle.

If you want more power, get it done properly. Rasing the boost without making appropriate alterations to the ignition and fueling is asking for trouble IMHO.

Ns04

 

Didnt think it was...

I just keep an eye on the boost gauge and see whats going on..
On a straight peice of road of course...

If I go full throttle it can something push upto 1.3, so i back off and then reapply and it then tends to stay..

Do you know if i can do naything about the spring??

Alos, did you disconnect/block up all the the solinoid valve pipe work on yours??

 

mmm...standard scoob better than a scoob that's got no botoom end due to over-boosting!

If you can keep your eye on that boost all the time when you driving then I hope I'm not coming in the opposite direction to you

Wait till you can afford a proper boost upgrade and you will see that remaps are not 'money for old rope'...

apart from that I for one have no technical input toi give you

 

some of you seem to be missing the point of the question..

It wasnt should i ditch the dawes.... it was simpley, do you know what the problem might be.
I'm well aware of what i can do in terms of finding an alternaive to the boosting control.
However i wish to try and fix the issue on currently installed parts.

Thanks all the same for the advise , but not quite what i was looking for..

 

oldmanmille,

Thanks for the honesty of your response..
Dont worry, i dont stare at it all the time, i'm aware that i need to back off so i dont tend to focus on it all the time.. Understand your concern though..

 

each to their own mate,as the ball which covers the port is held by the spring,id say the spring is weak and letting the ball rise off its seat...... fit a new spring,or if unavalable a new dawes

 

Agree with rigga, something is wrong with the setup, spring could be to loose, maybe it was stretched once and has now lost its elastic ability, guess you have checked breatherhole etc. and cleaned it out

anyway dawes is excellent for controlling overboost, thats why i fitted mine in the first place

 

ReggieMY99..... yea breather hole blocked,i forgot about that...... great technical advise


actually i think my diagnosis was the other way round,if im correct to limit the boost the dawes controls,you adjust the spring tension till the desired ammount of boost is reached,and the pressure lifts the ball off the seat by overcoming the spring tension...if thats the case the spring hasnt gone weak as if it had low boost would be the problem...... or is it the other way round?|

now you understand why i never fitted mine lol

 

Thanks for your help on this..
I took it off gave it a good clean, checked the breather hole too.
I remember reading somewhere about someone drilling it out to 1.5mm???
I will try the new spring route anyhow.

Cheers

 

i think 2mm was found to be the best for off boost driving

 

Dawes is a very effective method of boost control and there's no need for an **** re-map.

Best to set the boost in a high gear (4th/5th). Try and get 1.1bar in top gears and see how you get on.

Bob

 

The Dawes and other similar ball and spring valves work very well at maintaining a steady boost level on WOT. It is not very good at regulating part throttle boost levels, unlike the factory ECU which can be mapped to throttle back the boost at part throttle, and prevent very high EGTs.

The Dawes does not have a boost target, it just works in a round about sort of way. If it's cold, then it will make a little more boost than when it's hot, if the spring gets weak, or debris causes sticking or the ball not to seal, the boost levels can change.

The most important thing is to adjust the dawes to suit your needs, it's trial and error. You don't want to be relying on backing of the throttle to prevent hitting the fuel cut. As bob says, set for the higher gears, it's unrealistic to expect to always hit target boost in the lower gears, people can spend a lot of time trying to do just that, it's not always easy.

 

There you go, expert advice , i set mine for 1.1 in fifth and took it from there, took some time but is very stable and the boost havent moved anywhere since, and certaintly no overboost anymore

Reg

 

as above setting the boost in the first 2 gears is a bit of a waste of time

 

Well, i have to say thats alot of mixed but useful information.
Nice to see everyone has their own opnions.

Thanks for you help on this, time to get my hands dirty.

 

how do u adjust the boost? does it need to be done by a Re-map or is there a way of doing it yourself?

 

Gangle,

I've had good experience of Dawes over a few years. I wrote up experiences and settings on my Scoobypedia site. See the Newage Cheep Modifications article below:
http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.p...pModifications

In summary, hole size of Dawes to 1.5mm, boost to 1.1bar/16psi at WOT in 5th on a cold day for a standard 2.0 litre MY00 or MY03 WRX. Assume other variants would be set the same.

Note that by using a Dawes your ECU no longer adjusts your boost based on speed and/or inlet temperature any more. For example, a stock map would see boost reduced as speed increases. I did a little analysis of the Dawes characteristics and observed that it naturally tapered boost down very slightly :-) using the above settings. This was not as much as the ECU does it though. I found that when the Dawes gets hot (hot day or heat soak) it also seems to naturally reduce boost slightly. Not an expert here so can only have my assumptions on why this would be.

Oh, I also switched to only use Optimax fuel as soon as I started raising boost for added safety.

Hope this helps,
-Steve.

 

Thanks alot for that steve. I'll check out that link too.
Would like to do alot to my car now, had it quite a few years and would like to see what its capable off without throwing bundles of cash at it..

 

Steve, I had a look on the link. Am interested in the re-map section.
However there is noting displayed on the page "ECU Knowledge Base"..
Do you have this info anywhere esle??

 

Refresh your page and try again....

 

Hi, iv just read through the link that was posted on here..then i went onto the dawesdevices link homepage, I have to say im impressed by what i read for a budget upgrade and im thinking of buying their hybrid boost control which can be delivered to my door for under £30 But i was wondering what the advantage would be of having a hybrid boost controller over a basic boost controller?

 

I'd go for the hybrid all day at that price. I can't believe the price now - purchased mine around 4+ years ago. The hybrid should be fractionally quicker at reacting as target boost is achieved thus preventing any small over boosting.

When I was researching this years ago I couldn't find anyone who independantly had done any verifiable tests (diagnostic data logs) with both. As the cost back then was more I went with the standard one and it worked fine. I've got my diagnostic logs of running it on MY03 I can share if interested.

 

@crispyduck
Yea that would be very useful thanks I must admit i was surprised when i saw the price.By the way if anybody else is interested the new website addy for dawes devices is http://www.3barracing.com
Oh also would the sti ppp backbox fit on my95 wrx wagon??
Thanks

 

codfather, just sent you PM.
I've updated my web site with the new link, cheers.

 

Hi thanks for the pm mate..
Its convinced me to buy a hybrid mbc....for less than £30 its hardly going to break the bank
Mind you upon inspection under the bonnet today, it looks like im gonna be replacing a crank seal and rocker cover, dnt know if im up for the challenge myself though

 

Well looking forward to fiiting my hybrid MBC however iv heard a few horror stories stating that i could be risking running my car too lean and cause detonation?!? is this true??