Im in two minds wether to buy an induction kit or just uprate my poanel filter on my00 subaru impreza uk model! if i was going to go with a induction kit what is the best one to use with my model car? and if i was to uprate my panel filter instead whats the best to go for i hear the green is the best is this true? Im not to concerned about increasing the bhp of my car im just after that air sucking type sound wich i love!!! apparently tho the induction kit is best for this is there anyway around it or will it be ok just to go buy a kit? any help on my subject would be much appreciated as i dont want to cause any damage to my precious scooby

 

I would stay clear of an induction kit as it may destroy the MAF, the later
classics don't like them.

A good quality panel filter such as J&R, Green, K&N or a STI version would
be best, avoid heavily oiled filters as they can also affect the MAF.

Rob

 

Cheers for the advice mate thats quite a few people now said that to me so must be true what panel filters are the least oily ones then?

 

Any of those I've stated above are good, I have the J&R which is a little
dearer than the others, apart from the genuine STI version.

I got it from scoobyworld.
www.scoobyworld.co.uk

Rob

 

If you must go with an induction kit, then it would have to be the GGR one .... which is a modified K&N kit and supposed to be MAF friendly, because not only is it not oiled, but it is also a very tight fit against the inner wing .... its not just the oil that MAF's dont like .... vibration also!!

A colleague uses a Pipercross kit as well and has had no problems with it on a MY99 car (for probably the same reasons as the GGR kit)

As far as panel filters go, I would stick with the STi one or maybe the Green cotton filter as neither are oiled .... dont know about the others??

 

Stick with the panel filter.

 

You can always remove the resonator from the inner wing to allow a plentiful supply of cold, clean air, rather than a restricted flow of dirty warm engine bay air. On some models it also allows the induction and DV noise to be more audible, and only takes 1/2 hour to do for no money. Allied with a good panel it's the most cost effective and safe induction mod you can do. I can recommend the JR panel, but due to the sensitivity of 98-00 MAF's then a Green may be better for you.

 

Would be good to panal it mate un your aim is in the region of 360 plus on bhp etc..could also do the above too..

 

if u go for a panel filter then u can remove the front of ur air bow jig saw out the lower portion of the box this is best way to do it

 

just removed the inner wing resonator yesterday,bloody huge restictive thing,and added some ducting from the front wedge to the airbox,nice cold air supply now,fitted a samota panel filter also.... will try it later to see how it goes

 

rigga, be careful running ducting up to the airbox. Water and muck can be directed straight in and can overwhelm the filter very quickly, and if enough gets through it it's another way of killing a MAF. I recommend sealing up the holes in to the engine bay to prevent heat and muck/fumes being induced and effecting a seal around where the airbox meets the wing (I used a length of rubber hose). There is plenty of air getting into the wing so ducting is unnecessary and dangerous IMHO. There was a post last year (would look for it but search is pants right now) where a guy had killed a new-age MAF by running ducting from the foglight aperture of a blobeye. When he fitted the new one, the knackered one was caked in muck and dirty water.

 

Afaik its not the actual induction kit that causes the failure of the MAF, the MAF sensor is apparently very delicate and will fail with excessive vibration, poorly fitted induction kits which allow the MAF housing to vibrate more than the standard fitment are possibly the most common cause of MAF failure.
I say this as i have a pipercross induction kit fitted and the brackets which come with it secure the whole kit solid, it has been on there for 6 months and works just fine with no problems - so far!
Now i do understand that this might not be the same opinion as lots of other experts (not that i am one) but this is just my opinion based on my own experience, and i stand to be corrected on it.
I do know that the MY98-00's have a percieved problem in this area and i myself have suffered a blown engine (melted 3 pistons!) as a result of MAF failure but this was on a standard airbox with no other mods, i also had no warning of engine failure before it happened and all was running fine before hand?
Its my guess that you can fit one as long as it's fitted correctly and securely so as to aleviate the issues a have already mentioned.

 

well i was led to believe the cold air ducting was a good idea,will monitor the filter regulary for a while to check on the ammount of crap that gets sucked up to it,going to give it a good run in a bit and see how it is,didnt want an induction kit as mines the failiure prone 99/00 maf fitting....

 

Cold air is a good thing. This is how I did mine:

1) Notice that the hole in the inner wing is huge in comparison to the hole in the airbox: pic 1
2) Remove these from the airbox hole and with a jigsaw, enlarge it to match the inner wing hole here and here
3) Bridge the gap between the inner wing and airbox with duct tape to seal out engine bay air like this.
4) Run ducting towards the airbox but not into it like this

Job done! Lots of cool air and a larger surface area to get it into the airbox!

 

Unless you are going for big power stick with the panel filter which has the advantage of breathing cold air in the first place.
I have had good results with both the K+N reusable and the STi panel filter.
Both are available from Roger Clark Motorsport or API Engines.

 

Had a good run from Brum to Derby today to pick up a decat downpipe for the next stage,the cold air box mod seemed to work fine,car ran faultlessly all day,increase in induction noise,poss slightly better pick up,but hard to tell for sure,but as cold air is good,and hot air is bad im happy with it

 

Alrite mate glad to hear the air box mod! went ok SO FAR!!! can u kep me up to date with how ure getting on with it cus im in iraq at the moment and dont get bk for about 2 months so by then if it was goin to do any harm to the filter, or maf sensor you would of probably noticed it by then! Im goin to do the mod when i get back decided i think its thebest thing for my car seeing as my00 is prone for the maf sensor to go wrong! You got any tips on the modification or is it pretty much how the pictures show you how to do it? anyway cheers mate keep me up to date on how you get on and let me know how it sounds with your new down pipe. How much you pay to buy the pipe and fitting?

 

CAN YOU EMAIL THE PICS AND EXPLANATION OF HOW TO MODIFY THE AIR BOX PLEASE AS IM NOT SURE IF I CAN DO IT ON HERE CHEERS MATE MUCH APPRECIATED IF YOU COULD? Have you had any problems since modifying it?

 

Excellent guide, thats going to help a lot of people

I've got an induction kit due to FMIC pipework not allowing me to keep the airbox. Otherwise I'd have stuck with the K+N panel and airbox / resonator mod that has run faultlessly on all my other scoobs

 

Have you tried a before & after run on a rolling road? Be interested to know how big a difference it actually makes.

Have you also removed the inner wing resonator? A piccie guide of how to do that would be good too seeing as I don't know what one looks like.

You can't beat freebie power mods

 

This is my snorkel removal

http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/showthread.php?t=475488

It straightforward to do, a srewdriver and a few spanners and out it comes.

 

Is it the location of the ducting thats causing the water ingress problems?

If it is then I might leave that out - enlarging the hole into the airbox should give me some improvement and as I'm not after big power gains then it shouldn't be an issue for me.

Andy - I noticed the hosing you used was ribbed - don't you think a pipe with smoother internals would be much more beneficial?

 

Yes, I had removed the resonator box previously but unfortunately hadn't took pics. I have no forward and after power figures as my car has never been on the rolling road but there was a measured improvement in mid range pull. Using my AP22 performance meter, I recorded a 60-100 mph time before and after the mod (same day, and same stretch of road). Before the above mods and with just the resonator removed I managed a 8.7sec 60-100. After the airbox mod the car felt much stronger mid-top end. I recorded a 7.45sec 60-100....that's a nice increase for 1 hours work!

 

when i went out on sunday the weather was really poor,heavy rain all day and loads of muck thrown up at the car,wipers were on nearly constantly and had to keep washing the screen to keep it clean.....was a bit worried by the comments regarding the ducting to the air filter,and all the crap that might get thrown up the pipe...... took the air filter out today,not a mark on it,as new, so im happy that if it was fine in those conditions,it will be ok now

 

Alrite mate could you send me a picture of the rubber pipe mod you have done from the side of your wing to the airbox because im being a bit thick and cant quite picture using the rubber hose and also why is this any different from using ducting ?whats the best wa around preventing the muck building up in the filter then?

 

what diameter is the tubing