s83osl

big end is not well in my type r .

i am looking for more power about 350 - 400 bhp and higher torque, with rebuild was wondering what the pros and cons are for all the options rebuild 2.0 / 2.2 stroker / US 2.5 sti lump.

i have previously rebuilt my 2.0 befor using eagle billet conrods JP racing pistons and sti 9 crank . thought it would last forever but after a big cloud of smoke changed oil and found piston ring gone. pritty sure turbo needs replacing aswell.

so which way should i go?

any information would be great

cheers

Floyd

iTrader: (9)

What was the spec of the blown engine and who built it? Just trying see what went wrong before advice for next build.

F

s83osl

the last engine was spec was

eagle billet H conrods
JP racing pistons & rings
sti 9 crank
rogerclark uprated mains bearings
rogerclark uprated oil pump
full new gasket set
block and heads cleaned
new head bolts

roger clarke lightend and ballanced fly wheel
new AP organic clutch

standard turbo

uprated air filter

full turbo back exhast systeme

ECU had been chiped by previous owner details unkown

car used to peak boost 3000rpm 1.3 cm2 / kg ? and hold to red line !
( not sure of measuremnet on boost gauge)

however it had been overboosting and i believe this may have caused some detonation which i think caused piston to crack / melt hench piece of ring in
sump , i also woke up late for a plane on morning about a month before it went pair shaped and drove the car at top speed for about 11 - 15 mins solid not so clever :-(

no swarf so hopping crank and con rods ok , i am assuming bore is scored and turbo gone .


engine was built by local mechanic with astonishing reputation he is highly recomended and i helped out so understand how all goes together wil be dong it myself thistime with some guidence.

john banks

"ECU had been chiped by previous owner details unkown"

That is what rings alarm bells to me, especially on a JDM car.

No knocklink?

You can destroy a built motor in short order with a bad or inappropriate tune.

Get the tune right and even a boggo standard UK engine will likely take 350 BHP for a long time.

s83osl

it had been chipped by scoobymania and car was well known to them i changed non of the spec that would require a re map. However i bought car off a dealer and i was unaware of the ecu being chipped or remapped untill recently.

anway i was looking for some advice on wether to build a 2.0 2.2 or a 2.5 next time please

scoobyDAZZA

and i'm the proof

surely after all them mods you should've had a tweak to the remap

scoobyDAZZA

if you got the wonga then go 2.2

Neilo

but the 2.2 is actually only abot 2.15, not really worth it, the 2.33 is where its at at the moment.....and there wont be much difference in the cost between building a hardcore 2.0 to a hardcore 2.33 either

David MY99

take an 2.0 cdb and stroke it. Cheapest and can easy take the power your after.

Danny Boy

iTrader: (2)

I have been wondering if you can make a nice closed deck 2.5 from a normal 2L CDB? Is there enough meat in the block to take that sort of bore?

s83osl

whats required can i use my billet con rods and uprated pistons again and just replace the crank .

would i need an aftermarket ecu or can the standard version 5 type r one be remapped

cheers guys

911

You obviously cannot make your mind up...know the feeling...about the engine.
Is it best to strip it down to see what is useable?
If the damage is to the one bore and the piston but the rest is right, why not re build it all again with fresh bearings (and a new pump filter) and build a strong engine on that 2 liter? ie bigger/better externals such as a TD05 18 or 20g etc?

A 2.5 is the easy solid route, cheap and reliable, the 2.33 is sexy and ballistic but difficult to build up (I've read, not done) and relatively speaking $$$$$$$.

I would have a look at what you have in the engine. If there are bent rods and a run crank, I think I would opt for an Axis stage II 2.5 with forged pistons, use your heads etc, 20g and supporting mods and an Apexi FC mapped by the Scottish Wizzard, AndyF

400 x 400 engine, solid and so drivable by all accounts.(gearbox can be the weak link but it will be for a 2.33 too.
You can get Andy to tune it to 350 x 350 for a 'last for ever' engine (1.1 bar?)

John Banks above is The Man on 2.5's and I'm sure that he is right about the mapping, more important than the parts almost!
I would definitly take note of what John says.

Anyway, my 2 peneth. Let us know which way to go and why, always interesting.

Graham.
380 x 350 2 liter mapped by AndyF

R19KET

How did the new pistons effect the compression ratio ?

The US piston manufacturers commonly increase the compression to 8.5:1 on their "shelf pistons".

If this is the case with your engine, and you used a map based on circa 8:1, det' would certainly be an issue.


Mark.

David_Wallis

Wrong! Big difference.

Neilo

just going on what i was quoted........

David_Wallis

Having built a 2.3 and Knowing what a 2.0 can be built for Id say big differences..

Find a 2.0CDB for your 2.0 build for example - Easy
Find a EJ22T block for you 2.33 - not so easy...

or you go back to the 2.0 and reliner it to the correct bore for 2.33.. = More cost over the 2.0

You end up needing to change more for a 2.33 IMHO than a 2.0

And I ran a 2.0 at 345bhp back in 2001/2002.. Back in the days of only really me and andyf producing this power on cars with std ecus and std turbo's etc.

David

IanW

I know the person who imported the car into the UK, and had work done on the car at ScoobyMania, and I am 99.99% certain that when he sold the car it wasn't chipped.

Just found a spec from when he had the car advertised on here in 2003, not sure how many keepers it has had since then or how long you have had it. -

Danny Boy

iTrader: (2)

David what do you think about relinering a CDB to a 2.5L Bore, do you think this is viable or even worth it over the 2.33 version, do you think there will be any large advantage in those extra few cubic inches verus rev ability?

Dan.