Have seen this on ebay.........

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SUBARU-IMPREZA...QQcmdZViewItem

Should i? shouldnt i? whats the script with them?
Anyone fitted one? do they make a difference?

Cheers in advance.

 

Only really used for heavly moded cars that get driven hard, or for track days drag strips etc other whise not much point. Would be interested to see what the ebay one is like though.

Neil

 

That's not exactly cheap for the kit really. You'd be as well to get one directly from the oil control masters at Mocal. They supply all the tuners, racers and road modders.

To turn to the question of whether you need one or not, well that depends. Firstly do you actually know what your oil temps run like? For example on my old Clio 16v which had a proper oil temp and pressure gauge in the dash, it would run at 100 C most of the time but under track use, high speed autobahn cruising (both constantly between 6000-8000 revs) and sometimes when quarter miling it would hit 120, 130, 140 fairly easily. This is not good for the oil, because it's out of its normal operating range, although being good quality synthetic it could handle it OK.

Fitting an oil cooler kit (16 row/235mm cooler, 1/2" ID braided hoses, sandwich plate with built in 85 C 'oilstat') was probably the best £100 I ever spent. Ever since then I never saw a temperature out of the 85-100 C range under any conditions, however harsh. All that would happen is that while the oil was cold the oilstat stayed closed and the oil takes its normal route through the engine and filter. Once it warms up the stat opens and the oil flow is diverted out to the oil cooler (which I had front mounted in a bumper inlet, Evo 6 TM style) and back in the engine. It's a perfect system with no downside except you have to keep a little more oil in the engine and recalibrate your dipstick.

Best thing to do is contact Mocal, tell them the sort of temperatures you're trying to get rid of, the physical room you've got for the cooler itself, how long the pipes need to be, whether you want plain rubber or braided etc and they will quote you. I can be almost certain that you won't find similar spec anywhere cheaper.

 

Cheers for that mate, an eye opener to say the least.

Basically here is here score.......

Blew engine back in august and have fitted a brand new bottom end to it which is now ready for first oil change re map etc etc. Im running a vf35 on a classic with tek 3 and fmic uprated everything else etc etc. At present the oil temp and pressure gauges aint connected due to waiting for the sandwich plate to go in on oil change so i dont know what temps im running yet. Is it worth speaking to mocal now or wait, see what temps im running then give them a bell you think?
Cheers.

 

How can you make a sound decision when you do not have the relevant facts...................like what is your oil temperature. When you know the answer to that question you will be better able to make an intelligent assessment.

 

Exactly.
You might find that the whole thing's pointless. If your temps are OK then you needn't run the oil cooler system. I fitted mine in response to a problem. 'Valver' engines were renowned for being able to run at high revs comfortably but they did run hot when used like this, so it was done to protect the engine. If you don't need it, don't do it.

As Harvey said, get your oil temp (and pressure) gauges plumbed in first, drive around for a while getting used to how they change in different conditions, then see if there's anything out of range that needs fixing. As a side-note, I found that more stable oil temp definitely kept my coolant temps nice and tight as well. High speed runs in particular were an ordeal, watching the coolant temp 3/4 of the way up instead of 1/2, but the colder oil definitely kept the whole engine at the right temp as well. But then you're getting more into general heat management, which is a whole art in itself.