Sump quite corroded - Replace?
01 October 2005, 01:13 PM
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Sump quite corroded - Replace?
Hi All,
Just noticed the sump on my MY98 UK turbo is quite bubbled with rust. I'm wondering if to replace just incase it decides to bust.
Any ideas how thick the metal is in the sump? Should I be worried and get it changed now. Its looked a simple job to replace until you see the bolts at the rear nicely tucked above the sub-frame. I presume a engine lift job?
Cheers,
Wayne.
Just noticed the sump on my MY98 UK turbo is quite bubbled with rust. I'm wondering if to replace just incase it decides to bust.
Any ideas how thick the metal is in the sump? Should I be worried and get it changed now. Its looked a simple job to replace until you see the bolts at the rear nicely tucked above the sub-frame. I presume a engine lift job?
Cheers,
Wayne.
01 October 2005, 05:45 PM
#2
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Just done this for a mate 
The sump was actually leaking oil through the rust bubble!!
As you say the 4 bolts at the back are a pain in the ....!
Then getting the pan out between the headers and the oil filter
If I did it again I would remove the headers first and lift the engine up a few inches.
You can get to 2 ofthe rear bolts through 2 holes in the subframe (need to remove the little plate/strengthener) but you will need a small 10mm socket to get through the hole or put it on once the extention is through The 2 outer bolts can be done with a wobbly socket. you can use a flexable long screw driver if you can get enough purches on the head with out slip.
The sump was actually leaking oil through the rust bubble!!
As you say the 4 bolts at the back are a pain in the ....!
Then getting the pan out between the headers and the oil filter
If I did it again I would remove the headers first and lift the engine up a few inches.
You can get to 2 ofthe rear bolts through 2 holes in the subframe (need to remove the little plate/strengthener) but you will need a small 10mm socket to get through the hole or put it on once the extention is through
The 2 outer bolts can be done with a wobbly socket. you can use a flexable long screw driver if you can get enough purches on the head with out slip.
01 October 2005, 06:18 PM
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Thanks for the reply Dyney, just what I was looking for!
Looks like I better get mine done before it starts leaking
Any idea how much the new sump was?
Cheers,
Wayne.
Looks like I better get mine done before it starts leaking
Any idea how much the new sump was?
Cheers,
Wayne.
Originally Posted by Dyney
Just done this for a mate
The sump was actually leaking oil through the rust bubble!!
As you say the 4 bolts at the back are a pain in the ....!
Then getting the pan out between the headers and the oil filter
If I did it again I would remove the headers first and lift the engine up a few inches.
You can get to 2 ofthe rear bolts through 2 holes in the subframe (need to remove the little plate/strengthener) but you will need a small 10mm socket to get through the hole or put it on once the extention is through The 2 outer bolts can be done with a wobbly socket. you can use a flexable long screw driver if you can get enough purches on the head with out slip.
The sump was actually leaking oil through the rust bubble!!
As you say the 4 bolts at the back are a pain in the ....!
Then getting the pan out between the headers and the oil filter
If I did it again I would remove the headers first and lift the engine up a few inches.
You can get to 2 ofthe rear bolts through 2 holes in the subframe (need to remove the little plate/strengthener) but you will need a small 10mm socket to get through the hole or put it on once the extention is through
The 2 outer bolts can be done with a wobbly socket. you can use a flexable long screw driver if you can get enough purches on the head with out slip.
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