Shell 10w60
22 August 2005, 01:30 PM
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Shell 10w60
Who has used this on his heavly modified sub. i have 2.35 cdb. going for 450hp.
planning to us Silkolene PRO S 10w-50, but want to know the experiences from you guys.
And Simon i do know you wont recommend the sae 60 :P
coolgecen
planning to us Silkolene PRO S 10w-50, but want to know the experiences from you guys.
And Simon i do know you wont recommend the sae 60 :P
coolgecen
22 August 2005, 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by coolgecen
And Simon i do know you wont recommend the sae 60 
Have been using Castrol RS 10/60 in my mildly modded Type R for a couple of years now!
As you are not in anyway a standard scoob, the usual reply of using oil as specified in the handbook can surely not apply?
Last edited by TonyFlow; 22 August 2005 at 02:54 PM.
22 August 2005, 03:31 PM
#4
What I can say is Its not cheap
Used it in an Jag v12, after strong recommendation. Made absolutely no difference to oil pressure when compared to the thinner grades it was using previously - which pointed to that most of the oil was being pumped straight back out of the relief valve.
In a modded scoob, I can't really comment though. Personally I would stick with the silkolene or Motul...but that is based on gut preference moreso than any fact or experience.
Used it in an Jag v12, after strong recommendation. Made absolutely no difference to oil pressure when compared to the thinner grades it was using previously - which pointed to that most of the oil was being pumped straight back out of the relief valve.
In a modded scoob, I can't really comment though. Personally I would stick with the silkolene or Motul...but that is based on gut preference moreso than any fact or experience.
22 August 2005, 04:22 PM
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my engine is been built by crawford performance and they use in there region (california) 15w30. Strange haaaa. So i thought in the first place i should be using 15w50.
Coolgecen
Coolgecen
22 August 2005, 04:57 PM
#6
On the other side of the pond, they are pretty much obsessed with "shear stable" low viscosity oils and sae 30 is definately the favorite.
I think you'll find that sae 30 is a recommended oil for engines post around 2002 and this appears in many owners handbooks as 5w-30 or 10w-30.
Tuners tend to go for heavier oils on highly tuned engines running above stock power but there is always a middle ground in my opinion.
The reasons for using thicker than specified oils are usually to ensure that the oil can cope with the extra heat and stresses that is being asked of it without thinning and losing viscosity known as "shearing" however there is another school of thought here to which I "semi-subscribe" in certain instances and this is where the American way of thinking comes in.
Oil technology has moved on, thanks primarily to the use of "synthetics", the proper types (pao/ester) not the petroleum based (hydrocracked) ones.
This means that oil manufacturers (generally the higher end of the market ones) are able to make low viscosity oils, 0w-20, 0w-30 and 5w-30 oils that are incredibly resistant to thinning with use and therefore can cope with the same levels of heat as much thicker petroleum oils due to their composition.
This is achieved by using light synthetic basestocks (made in laboratories not dug out of the ground) which are very thermally stable and almost non-shear!
The element of an oil that is prone to shear is the VI Improver that is added and the less of this that's required the stronger the oil actually is as it contains a higher percentage of basestock which does not shear.
For example a 0w-20 race oil (as used in Formula cars and Superbikes etc) contains only basestock and these special oils (which are not really suitable for road use today although are being developed for eventual use in road cars) are unbelievebly stable. A properly formulated 0w-20 can take bulk sump oil temperatures above 155degC and remain in grade!
Many OEM's are now moving in this direction, Audi, VW, BMW to name a few now recommend 0w-30 oils for extended drain periods and these are the only oils that can be used in variable service applications. The reasons for this are as I've stated above, the viscosity gaps are so narrow and they contain such a high percentage of basestocks that they remain in grade far better for far longer.
If you think that these are the ramblings of a mad man, watch this space!
Within 5 years (the Japs are rather slow on all things oil) your new scoob will have 0w-30 as the recommended oil, you'd better believe it!
And..........this oil will be much better for your engine from a wear perspective.
Cheers
Simon
I think you'll find that sae 30 is a recommended oil for engines post around 2002 and this appears in many owners handbooks as 5w-30 or 10w-30.
Tuners tend to go for heavier oils on highly tuned engines running above stock power but there is always a middle ground in my opinion.
The reasons for using thicker than specified oils are usually to ensure that the oil can cope with the extra heat and stresses that is being asked of it without thinning and losing viscosity known as "shearing" however there is another school of thought here to which I "semi-subscribe" in certain instances and this is where the American way of thinking comes in.
Oil technology has moved on, thanks primarily to the use of "synthetics", the proper types (pao/ester) not the petroleum based (hydrocracked) ones.
This means that oil manufacturers (generally the higher end of the market ones) are able to make low viscosity oils, 0w-20, 0w-30 and 5w-30 oils that are incredibly resistant to thinning with use and therefore can cope with the same levels of heat as much thicker petroleum oils due to their composition.
This is achieved by using light synthetic basestocks (made in laboratories not dug out of the ground) which are very thermally stable and almost non-shear!
The element of an oil that is prone to shear is the VI Improver that is added and the less of this that's required the stronger the oil actually is as it contains a higher percentage of basestock which does not shear.
For example a 0w-20 race oil (as used in Formula cars and Superbikes etc) contains only basestock and these special oils (which are not really suitable for road use today although are being developed for eventual use in road cars) are unbelievebly stable. A properly formulated 0w-20 can take bulk sump oil temperatures above 155degC and remain in grade!
Many OEM's are now moving in this direction, Audi, VW, BMW to name a few now recommend 0w-30 oils for extended drain periods and these are the only oils that can be used in variable service applications. The reasons for this are as I've stated above, the viscosity gaps are so narrow and they contain such a high percentage of basestocks that they remain in grade far better for far longer.
If you think that these are the ramblings of a mad man, watch this space!
Within 5 years (the Japs are rather slow on all things oil) your new scoob will have 0w-30 as the recommended oil, you'd better believe it!
And..........this oil will be much better for your engine from a wear perspective.
Cheers
Simon
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