Help : What is this?
11 June 2005, 05:03 PM
#1
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Help : What is this?
Sorry lads not an impreza owner but my mate is. He brought it round today to do an oil/filter change.
I noticed that a small plastic filter type thing next to the air filter was broken and the pipe was hanging loose.
On the pic its the small pot on the left and you can see that we glued it back together and stuck a tie wrap around it to get him home.
What is this and will it harm the car if our temp fix fails?
Also whilst Im asking - we were going to change the spark plugs - they do seem really hard to get to! Is this a diy job?
Cheers
I noticed that a small plastic filter type thing next to the air filter was broken and the pipe was hanging loose.
On the pic its the small pot on the left and you can see that we glued it back together and stuck a tie wrap around it to get him home.
What is this and will it harm the car if our temp fix fails?
Also whilst Im asking - we were going to change the spark plugs - they do seem really hard to get to! Is this a diy job?
Cheers
11 June 2005, 05:10 PM
#2
Scooby Regular
I think that's the carbon canistor 
If it is, then no harm done. It's to condense excess petrol vapour and return it to the fuel system (I think). Many people remove it as it weighs a tonne.
The spark plugs are tricky, and require the removal of the airbox on one side and the battery on the other. Many models have coil packs too, so be careful as they are easily damaged and pricey to replace. I've never done the plugs myself, but I seem to recall being advised to remove the rubber gromit in the plug spanner which grips the plug for some reason
I hope you followed the "****" oil change prodedure by prefilling the filter and disconnecting the CPS and priming the system. Proper Subaru filter and good quality oil too
If it is, then no harm done. It's to condense excess petrol vapour and return it to the fuel system (I think). Many people remove it as it weighs a tonne.The spark plugs are tricky, and require the removal of the airbox on one side and the battery on the other. Many models have coil packs too, so be careful as they are easily damaged and pricey to replace. I've never done the plugs myself, but I seem to recall being advised to remove the rubber gromit in the plug spanner which grips the plug for some reason
I hope you followed the "****" oil change prodedure by prefilling the filter and disconnecting the CPS and priming the system. Proper Subaru filter and good quality oil too
11 June 2005, 05:14 PM
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Cheers for the reply.
The problem bit is the tiny pot on the left of the pic. Not the big pot on the right.
"disconnecting the CPS and priming the system" ?????
Yes primed the filter but what is this CPS etc???
Just done a search on hear re the plug thing - found some good threads!
The problem bit is the tiny pot on the left of the pic. Not the big pot on the right.
"disconnecting the CPS and priming the system" ?????
Yes primed the filter but what is this CPS etc???
Just done a search on hear re the plug thing - found some good threads!
11 June 2005, 05:20 PM
#4
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CPS - Crank Position Sensor
It's just under the alternator and detects the speed of the crank. On start-up it won't allow ignition and fuelling until the crank is over 200rpm (or something like). By disconnecting it and then turning the engine over without it starting it allows the new oil to be circulated around the engine with no load. After 20secs, reconnect it and start the engine properly, letting it run for 5 minutes before going for a spin. After doing this the CEL will be on for 5 starts until the ECU is satisfied that the sensor hasn't failed, or there isn't any other problems. Then leave the engine to stand for 20 mins before re-checking the levels. It's also worth using a small length of rubber hose when checking oil levels to blow down the dipstick tube. They have a tendency to airlock and give false readings, but by blowing down it and letting it settle for a couple of minutes you'll get an accurate reading every time.
It's just under the alternator and detects the speed of the crank. On start-up it won't allow ignition and fuelling until the crank is over 200rpm (or something like). By disconnecting it and then turning the engine over without it starting it allows the new oil to be circulated around the engine with no load. After 20secs, reconnect it and start the engine properly, letting it run for 5 minutes before going for a spin. After doing this the CEL will be on for 5 starts until the ECU is satisfied that the sensor hasn't failed, or there isn't any other problems. Then leave the engine to stand for 20 mins before re-checking the levels. It's also worth using a small length of rubber hose when checking oil levels to blow down the dipstick tube. They have a tendency to airlock and give false readings, but by blowing down it and letting it settle for a couple of minutes you'll get an accurate reading every time.
11 June 2005, 05:27 PM
#6
Scooby Regular
Not essential, dealers certainly don't bother 
but certainly advisable given the high incidence of engine failures shortly after services. Only takes an extra 2 minutes when you know what your doing.
but certainly advisable given the high incidence of engine failures shortly after services. Only takes an extra 2 minutes when you know what your doing.
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15 June 2005, 03:54 PM
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yeh come on you bods, where are you [i wanna know too]
re the spark plugs ; recently i done this on my uk99. i had to take out the air box [easy just a couple of screws,and pipes but fiddly getting it out of the way] and unscrew the boost solenoid bracket next to it and budge it out the way
and unscrew the windscreen washer water container and budge it out of the way.
the pain is if you havnt got the right tools ;
10mm spark plug socket [or was it 14mm?]
long ratchet
and a universal type knuckle adaptor[the attachment that fits between ratchet and socket so you can use it at an angle]
when putting in new spark plugs do it up finger tight with the spark plug socket and then use the ratchet to do a half turn [dont over tighten]
spark plug gaps - 0.7mm [ngk pfr7b]
re the spark plugs ; recently i done this on my uk99. i had to take out the air box [easy just a couple of screws,and pipes but fiddly getting it out of the way] and unscrew the boost solenoid bracket next to it and budge it out the way
and unscrew the windscreen washer water container and budge it out of the way.
the pain is if you havnt got the right tools ;
10mm spark plug socket [or was it 14mm?]
long ratchet
and a universal type knuckle adaptor[the attachment that fits between ratchet and socket so you can use it at an angle]
when putting in new spark plugs do it up finger tight with the spark plug socket and then use the ratchet to do a half turn [dont over tighten]
spark plug gaps - 0.7mm [ngk pfr7b]
15 June 2005, 04:07 PM
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Guys theres threads on s/net about this carbon cannister and doing away with it !
Thats a 1 way valve mate that vents the petrol vapours into the carbon cannister which in turn vents it to atmos through a pipe in the bottom up the chasis rail,load of crap really just enviro friendly i suppose..
Do loads of reading guys if your gonna mess all the answers are there
Thats a 1 way valve mate that vents the petrol vapours into the carbon cannister which in turn vents it to atmos through a pipe in the bottom up the chasis rail,load of crap really just enviro friendly i suppose..
Do loads of reading guys if your gonna mess all the answers are there