LillieUK300

Since I have had my car I have had a problem with it pulling a bit in higher revs. Had the cat changed, the airflow sensor and the plugs ad compressions etc sorted.
The car is not going as well as it should...and when I have been in it for a while and been giving it some...it starts to lose power at around 5k revs.
It also has trouble starting sometimes and ticks over...with quite alot of knocking at just under 500 revs.... not sure if that is normal.
I had been on a blast on sunday and let it cool down for ages. Nipped to to the shops....came back out...went to start engine and the alarm started to make a noise but like it was running out of battery and the car wouldn't turn over at first.
The dealer is stumped and I am getting bit fed up of keep having to take it back in.
Has anyone got any idea what it could be.
Thanks

lucy-loo

ZIPPY

The 1st thing i would check is:

The earth from the battery to the chassis and any other battery connections.

The car is around 4 years old now and it may well have some corroded connections.You have had the MAF sensor changed which would have also been on my list.
Has the dealer checked the coil packs ?

Zippy

LillieUK300

Had all the above checked and took it out yesterday to fix it once and for all....turns out it's the dump valve. So I need to fit old recirc one back on and run it for a while, if it fixes it then I will sort about getting new dump valve.
Any recommendations on this??...existing one is Baileys. Was thinking about getting blitz one.
Thanks for advice Zippy. x

Gidney&Knowlesy

Not yet, just make sure the recirc is doing its thing & the issues aren't replicated.

ZIPPY

Mate stick with the standard dump valve the VTA ones offer no gains at all and cause problems as you have found out.

Zippy

Graz

The hesitation/pulling you describe could well be down to the dump valve as mentioned further on. If it's leaking at high boost pressures then it could be the cause. Stick the proper original Subaru re-circ one and dispense with the VTA sillyness Apart from making the whooshing sound they do nothing performance wise and can cause over fuelling issues. This can cause bore wash and eventually damage the engine.

Aside from that check the hoses for splits, leaks etc. You can also put the engine management into a diagnostic mode and see if there are any error codes, can't remember the exact details but there are some plugs under the steering column , if you connect them together it will tell you any fault codes and you can do a reset on the ECU. Do a search on "ECU reset", you'll find the details.

This does sound electrical, either the battery itself is on it's last legs or there may be an earthing or connection problem. The earthing on Scoobs isn't great and many fit addtional earths to improve it with an earthing kit (DIY or shop bought). May be worth a shot?

Hope that helps

Dark Blue Mark

All of what you've said is consistent with an air leak, so the DV will probably be the problem. The idle thing will be air leak too, but nocking sounds a bit suspect. Does it go away once warm? Does it only do it 500 rpm or does it settle out at normal idle?

MB