Mike P

I think I have some air trapped in the slave cylinder on my clutch. Having done a search on SN, there doesn't appear to be an idiot's guide to clutch bleeding.

Being an idiot and about to bleed my clutch, can anyone list the correct procedure?

As far as I can see I need to do the following (please correct me if I'm wrong)

1) Remove Intercooler
2) Clamp slave cylinder shaft to prevent loss of back pressure and the pedal sticking to the floor
3) Undo bleed nipple
4) Gently press clutch pedal until fluid runs out
5) Tighten bleed nipple
6) Release clutch pedal
7) Refit I/C
8) Hope problem solved

I'm not sure if I should release the pedal before doing up the bleed nipple. Will this draw air back into the system?

Any help/corrections appeciated. This might seem a bit noddy but I'd rather know how before I break out the spanners.

Cheers

Mike

CustomScoobyIOM

As above and always make sure plenty of fluid in the master cylinder.

- Pump up pedal and hold it in (Get a mate or someone else to do this)
- Whilst holding pedal down undo the bleed nipple with a clear tube going into a bubble soyou can see air in the system.
- Keeping pedal held down tighten bleed nipple.
- Pump the pedal up again and hold it.

Repeat steps above basically. Keep going until you don't see any air in the clear tube.

If you release pedal whilst bleed nipple is still undone yes it will draw in the air into the system.

Jon.

Mike P

Cheers for the reply, Jon.

So I'm right in assuming that you clamp the slave so that when you pump the pedal you can build pressure in the system?

One more quick thing, when you say pump the pedal, are you repeatedly pressing and releasing it prior to undoing the bleed nipple, or are you just pressing it in once & holding it down? Apologies if I'm being a bit slow, but I have visions of building pressure levels that spray clutch fluid all over the place if I'm not careful

Mike

STI5300

iTrader: (4)

Pump the pedal usually means depress the pedal a couple of times before you finally depress it prior to your mate loosening off the nipple and allowing fluid to come out. I usually suck out the old fluid with an old syringe then refill with new fluid then set about bleeding the rest out. As you press the pedal you are pressurising the system who ever is on duty at the nipple end will be able to see the lever moving back make sure he locks the nipple before it has fully returned. Don't think you need to lock the release lever, I can't remember doing that.
Have fun !!!!!

GTTurbo

Sorry to be a pain, but how does one know when there is air in the system?

I have recently had a new clutch fitted, it was lovely for about 200 miles and then got really heavy - does it need bleeding?

Thanks

Scott.T

iTrader: (2)

I think mine needs changing, as I think it's boiling when stuck in traffic.
Clutch pedal goes really hard and bites at the top even after a new clutch.
This seems to of got worse since the VF28 was fitted, so I assume this turbo runs slightly hotter. I've put a layer of heatwrap on the inside of my turbo heatshield for now......

I had a similar problem with the ABS on my XR4x4. The resovoir was above the exhaust manifold. When it got hot the ABS light came on and the brakes switched to non-assisted. When I put fresh fluid in the problem went away.
My father had the same problem a year or so before with his Sierra 4x4 Ghia estate (same engine as XR4x4). Ford never found the solution to the fault after many trips to the dealer and diagnostic checks. A quick change of fluid would of sorted it.

CustomScoobyIOM

Sorry for late reply Mike.

Check out www.ravensblade-impreza.com for bit more info mate. Photos etc.

Mike P

Thanks for the links and guidance. I've also managed to dig up this, which looks like Subaru USA's guidance for upgrading the clutch hose. Handily, it also includes full intstructions for removing the Intercooler bleeding the system and doing a full fluid replacement.

http://techinfo.subaru.com/html/down...LUTCH_HOSE.pdf

Cheers for the help.

Mike