Notices
General Technical
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: CARiD

Clutch pedal adjustment for classic

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Apr 2, 2005 | 04:22 PM
  #1  
Mike P's Avatar
Mike P
Thread Starter
Scooby Regular
 
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 394
Likes: 0
Question Clutch pedal adjustment for classic

Does anyone have instructions for adjusting the spring return on the clutch for a classic turbo?

I had the master cylinder replaced and now occasionally the clutch is slow off the floor. Checked the spring under the intercooler is in place, which it is, and I don't think there's any air in the fluid.

I think the problem is the point at which the big spring at the top of the pedal assembly is switching from resistance to assistance. Can this be adjusted by rotating the threaded shaft which runs from the pedal into the master cylinder?

If anyone has ideas or the relevant service instructions (UK MY98) that'd be very helpful. This is starting to wick me off!

Mike
Reply
Old Apr 3, 2005 | 07:14 AM
  #2  
911's Avatar
911
Scooby Regular
 
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 11,341
Likes: 1
Default

Know the feeling.
i removed the pedal assister springs totaly.
Not that much difference in pressure, top of traval a little less defined, got used to it!
That was 2 years ago now, and all is well.

There is a pedal adjust screw under there so you can get the 6 to 10 mm travel right.
I think when you have found that and changed things all will be well.
It is easy to spot and to gat at just for a change

Graham.
Reply
Old Apr 3, 2005 | 09:45 AM
  #3  
Roojai's Avatar
Roojai
Scooby Regular
20 Year Member
 
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,178
Likes: 0
From: Taunton
Default

Originally Posted by Mike P
I think the problem is the point at which the big spring at the top of the pedal assembly is switching from resistance to assistance. Can this be adjusted by rotating the threaded shaft which runs from the pedal into the master cylinder?



Mike
Yes. You can adjust the bite-point position by turning the bracket on this threaded shaft. Bit of a pain to get to as you need to get your head into the footwell, but you can remove the clip and take out the sliding pin that connects the pedal to the clutch shaft, then you can either turn the bracket on the shaft, or hold the bracket still and turn the shaft, whichever is easier.

You want the bite-point to be set so that the clutch pushes the pedal just past the point where the springs lift the pedal the rest of the way. If it is too low then the pedal will only come up half way - and perhaps suddenly spring up. If the bite point is moved too high then the clutch begins to feel heavy as you have to push against the clutch plus the spring. It also makes it harder to feel the bite point if it is high, and you run the risk of not allowing full return to the master cylinder so that it may self-adjust.
Reply
Old Apr 3, 2005 | 01:21 PM
  #4  
Mike P's Avatar
Mike P
Thread Starter
Scooby Regular
 
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 394
Likes: 0
Default

Thanks for the feedback, I'm going to have a go at adjusting it and see if it improves things.

Mike
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Pro-Line Motorsport
Car Parts For Sale
0
Sep 27, 2015 11:23 AM
alex_00s
Drivetrain
2
Sep 26, 2015 06:07 PM
speedrick
Subaru Parts
0
Sep 26, 2015 03:01 PM
Scooby_Lee101
General Technical
3
Sep 26, 2015 12:04 AM




All times are GMT +1. The time now is 08:43 PM.