CJAF7R

evening!

Fitted a knocklink earlier to my import WRX (MY95) went for a drive to see how it was doing and here are the results:

1st gear - 1st green light up to 6.5k
2nd gear - 1st green light up to 6.5k
3rd gear - green light but the odd very slight flash of red around 6k (not always tho and didnt see any build up through amber, unless it was too quick?)
4th gear - green light and again very odd flash of red for a split second (only happened once in 4th)

if it flickered red and it wasnt on a gearchange then it would flicker at 5.5 or 6k then go back to green up to 6.5 just before i changed

i also noticed a slight flash of amber in 3rd once too, but other times it was just the 1st bright green (@ over 6k) all the way through to the end of 4th!

I dont tend to drive the car ever over 6krpm so if it is detting a bit then it wont have been detting prior to fitting the knocklink which is good, but im still a bit concerned.

I also noticed that sometimes the slight flicker of red was on cue with a gear change!

any advice folks.

thanks a lot!

p.s the car is running optimax, millers octane booster and engine mods are decat downipipe, blitz exhaust and k&n.

CJAF7R

thats knocklink not knockling btw

timmyajmy93wrx

iTrader: (27)

hey there

well similar story to how mine was....
i have a 93 wrx and fitted my knocklink sensor and had it set on half. The car has optimax (scooby chip to run on optimax) and the higher the mph and rev range the more lights flickered. Thought it was me with crap plugs etc etc, and/or just giving it a bit to much. Still happened if i put millers in. So just carried on as normal thinking it was just supposed to be like that.

However, i have just had a big end bearing fully shatter on me damaging the crank and conrod, so full strip and rebuild was on the cards. So obviously then the knock link was indicating the 'give' in that worn bearing.

Now its all back together and running sweet as a nut (and with loads of parts &help from dave at api!!! ) the knocklink is set on full and does not bat an eyelid (or shud i say flash at all!).

I'm guessing at this is what could happen to you, i'm no mechanic or wizzkid on these cars but just letting you know - dont let this frighten you im sure someone in the know will have a nicer answer for you!!! or a better reason. untill you find out for sure just lay off the gas abit.

Tim

CJAF7R

thanks for the input mate i believe its set on max sensitivity at the mo!

during my normal driving style it was all good on green, just when i gave it that little bit more stick to see if it changed i got the odd flash! it was litteraly a slit second flash of red tho and seemed to go back to green after that.

So what was happening to yours tim? Whats different since the rebuild to make the knockllink show contant green?

cheers

Scott.T

iTrader: (2)

The hot spot is between abut 4,800 and 6,000rpm. If you are getting a flash in that area then I suspect it is detting due to too much ignition advance in those zones.

Are you running with an induction kit. If so and if possible switch back to a good panel filter. You may find that cures it due to the induction kit causing it to run lower on the load scale. The lower down the load scale the more the ignition advance.

timmyajmy93wrx

iTrader: (27)

I got the normal green lkight on normal driving then when you went through the revs to get full use of the rev range i got ambers and occassional red flicker to gear change then back on the gas and again higher the speed and higher the revs the lights there were flickering.

Since the rebuild the engine is tight and has to bed in and afaik hopefully thats a good sign as all the parts are working correct with no excess give as to rattle and cause lights to flash like a sodding crimbo tree!!!

Yours will probably be nowhere near as drastic as that - it maybe just some play in the engine somewhere which you can expect with the age and thats what is getting picked up.

Do you have an afr gauge? That could help to see if it is actually detting from running lean or whether its picking up rattles.

CJAF7R

yeah the car came with a K&N on it matey.

i will try and get hold of a standard airbox and panel filter.

i will take it steady, and keen a close eye on it!

i might give scoobyclinic a ring tomorrow as they are only down the road.

Roojai

It's much less likely to be play in the engine and much more likely to be Det as this is what the knocklink is designed to pick up . Sounds like classic det to me. IC not be effective enough, poor fuel, or too much ignition advance in japanese map. Fix one of these three and you will probably be sorted.

CJAF7R

yeah iv got the crappy slanty I/C on it at the mo. ill be filling up with some fresh optimax tomorrow and some OB.

Are there an downsides to having a remap to 98ron fuel?

is it worth getting an uprated fuel pump maybe?

Scott.T

iTrader: (2)

Just re-read and realised it's a 95WRX......I wouldn't expect an MY95 WRX to be detting even on 97RON, unless there is a problem elsewhere i.e MAF, Induction or it's not running the standard boost levels.

Prodrive use the WRX95 map in their PPP for Pre96 cars and even up the boost from 12.7psi to 13.64psi.

CJAF7R

yeah its a jap 95 WRX. If its used to using jap high octane fuels how come it wouldnt det on 97ron over here matey?

im not too clued up on these cars at the mo.

i think ill be getting rid f the induction kit asap and possibly a bigger I/C! is the standard box with sti panel filter the best option then?

thanks again!

Roojai

No downsides to a remap to UK fuel at all.

Infact a remap will allow much more power (higher boost and quicker spool up).

I've had same problem as you in the past with my 94 WRX and now I have a bigger IC and a remap.

A remap is your most complete solution but will cost about 350-500 quid. I can put you in touch 'Pat the mapper' who can help, or just contact David from API and he can arrange a remap by Pat. A scoobyECU may be a cheaper solution but very hard to find.

You can fit a later IC but it is not easy. They cost around 100-200 second hand.

OB plus optimax (NF) will definately help but using OB for the rest of your cars days is a bit of a hassle and not so good for spark plugs.

Even with a remap I would suggest a better IC so perhaps get this first and see how it goes?

CJAF7R

ok. well i live 10mins from scoobyclinic so i might give them a call tomorrow and see about a remap if they can do them!

in the meantime an uprated I/C and standard airbox is being fitted ASAP!!

can anyone advise me if it is worth buying this one as an upgrade from my small slanty one thats on it at the moment --> http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/showthread.php?t=409341

cheers for the help folks!

CJAF7R

Roojai - what I/C did u upgrade to matey?

cheers

Roojai

No pictures or information about the 65quid one so hard to say if it's a good one. Cheap though so could be a good option.

I upgraded to a 2002 WRX intercooler
http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/showthrea...ed+intercooler

I think any of the 'square' IC from post '97 would be an improvement, Sti especially. I think my 2002 is slightly bigger again. Mine cost about 180quid with samco hoses.

You can buy brand new TMIC kits for about 500quid, but can also get a FMIC for this sort of money.

Scott.T

iTrader: (2)

The map in a Z4 ECU (95 WRX) is the same map that Prodrive used for it's PPP upgrade on PRe96 UK cars. The recommended fuel was 97RON.

This is also the base map used by some of those remapping with ScoobyECU, as it was onw of the better maps from a late(ish)WRX

Once again... I would not expect a Z4 map to be casuing problems in a 95WRX .... if it is still running 12.7psi, with a panel filter.

CJAF7R

cheers scott!

right then, panel filter, and better I/C on the do to asap list

So would it be better for me to just run it on optimax rather than sticking octane booster in there as well if it is recommended on 97ron?

Scott.T

iTrader: (2)

It could be a MAF problem so worth a clean with carb cleaner and a cotton bud.

Jay m A

iTrader: (2)

Fit the panel filter and see how it goes! If the knocklink is quiet then try optimax only - remember to reset the ECU

Roojai

Mine did det on a Z4, even at standard boost. My engine is a wagon JDM engine which is rumoured to have a higher compression ratio so this may have been the cause. I was on a panel filter and tried two different MAF's.

I got it remapped and it was a lot quieter (and at 16psi), but I found that with the slanty intercooler I still got det if I did a few bursts of speed in succession (ie IC got warmed up). the upgraded IC solved the problem completely.

I agree in theory it should be ok on Z4 with standard set-up on optimax though

martin850

iTrader: (51)

Just want to check that I have got my knocklink set to max. If you have the front of the knocklink towards you which way do you turn the dial to set it to max?

The only reason being that I only get a second green light when I start the engine and after that during driving it only keeps the first green faint showing that it is on.

Thanks in advance

CJAF7R

martin im not sure mate, the guy i bought mine off had it set to max already!

bit of an update today. filled up with optimax and octane booster again, havent been driving it as hard, but still been giving it a bit every now and again, and nothing more than the 2nd green apart from one occasion when i saw the first orange! no reds! but i wasnt giving it quite as much as yday!

still gonna swap the airbox and I/C though!

Scott.T

iTrader: (2)

I assume your Wagon JDM was also converted to run a TD05 aswell then.
Yes I think the compression is different, just as is the Turbo. It's all aimed at giving the Wagon more low down torque for towing etc..etc...

dj219957

Very interesting reading.
I didnt realize the z4 ecu was set up for 97 ron fuel? Am i reading this correct?
I thought all ecus that came on jdm cars (inc z4 map) were set for 100+ ron fuel? I am just about to buy a new map from "pat the mapper" thinking that it will be better for uk fuel (i always run optimax anyway). Ahhh (thinking as im typing) i spose a remap will run less ignition advance ..yes? thus reducing risk of det. Think i will get it anyway.

IMO any ambers or reds on the knocklink which pop up as often as desicribed by the chap in this thread need to be sorted ASAP.
I used to get the odd flash of red on lift off but the z4 eventuallty learnt to map it out itself in the self learn.

Hope you get it sorted mate.


Andy

Neil_G

Very interesting thread. I have just upgraded the ecu on my 94 WRX from the W9 to the Z4 and have noticed a significant difference in perfomance and less activity on the KL. It wasn't bad before but now there is very little activity at all even at high RPM.

Roojai

Yes it had a TD05 fitted. DJ219957 (posted above) has done the same thing with his JDM wagon.

I ran the Z4 with optimax and full decat for a while and the KL was fairly quiet but still got oranges quite often and sometimes a red. I re-catted the car as I thought this would help, and it did a little bit but still had a problem. I

When I got the remap it made a big difference. Only got one green on boost, and sometimes a second green towards top of rev range. I never got any oranges after the remap. I would get the very occasional sudden sparks all the way to red in conditions where heatsoak may be occuring in IC (eg after extended period of high boost (>30 secs). Surprisingly this got worse with cold weather but I think this is due to much denser air resulting in higher boost. The IC upgrade really sorted this. Last weekend I used 20 quid of petrol in 1 hour blasting around Exmoor, seriously punishing the car and never saw more than one green, something I could have never done before remap +IC.

I do get lift-off det occasionally but only when I am doing very rapid gearchanges from close to 7000rpm, usually just in first. This could be a problem with my map and could be mapped out, although Bob Rawle suggests using cooler spark plugs (8's) to prevent this 'dieseling effect'. If I drive smoothly then this is not an issue.

CJAF7R

how much was the remap matey?

Neil_G

What sort of ecu are you using now?

CJAF7R

I believe its a Z4? its standard ECU on an import MY95 WRX?

Roojai

Should be a Z4 on your car. A remap on any pre-97 car is between 400-500 quid. I paid 480 through API but I know if you go direct to Pat it should be a bit cheaper.