I am writing this post so that hopefully I will be able to understand more about exactly what effect an engine rebuild will have on my scoob.

I am having to have a full engine rebuild on a UK my00 impreza (big end's!!). I understand that it will require running in and generally the same principles as if you are picking up a new car. But will it have any other effects?

I hear some people say 'I had the rebuild, got the car back to scratch and then sold it' - but why? As far as I can see a rebuild simply means just that, rebuild the engine so that everything is working properly again. You are not having a rebuild to a level less than it was, but solving problems that have occurred and making the engine strong again.

Should I be expecting a weaker engine than before (once run in)?. I understand that there may be teething problems with the engine but once run in it should be as strong as the original, and with a warranty on the engine there is some piece of mind as well.

Am I missing anything, or should the engine rebuild simply resolve the problems I have at present and once run in, it will be to a level 'as reliable' as the original engine was?

 

IMHO:

If the rebuild has been done correctly, the engine parts are right for the job, the process carried out right then all should be well.
There are sensible 'tricks' to be used:
1
On first filling the 'new' engine with oil, remove the crank sensor connection, remove plugs.
2
Saturate the filter to the brim, takes 5 mins to do this, and fit. Do not use Mobile 1 types of oils, they are too slippy and the surfaces will not bed-in correctly.
3
Crank the engine over for 30 secs on a fresh battery to prime the pump and galleries and bearing surfaces.
4
Replace everything and fire.

Drive the car very gently, do not labour the engine, warm is up and do not exceed 3500 for 1000 miles, etc etc etc etc
If it is a stock engine then with a good early oil/filter change you should have a great car again.

If sub standard short-cuts are taken then you will compromise the outcome, common sense.
People sell because confidence is lost, costs are high, even if you DIY the job, and there is the fear it will happen again.
This is the case for any car i think.

911

 

Top advice above there

For a peace of mind aftermarket engines rebuilt from API Engines do excel IMHO. Speak to APIDavid on here or check his website.

Jon.

 

I understand the theory of cranking the engine over to get the new oil around the system, but won't you end up burning out the starter motor??

 

Personally i would rather change the starter motor than have the slight chance i need an engine rebuild. I know how common a problem they are to go after an oil change so hence wouldn't bother me to crank the engine.

Stuart

 

Thanks 911 will follow your advice. The rebuild is being done at a cost, I was advised other 'short cut' methods but decided if I'm going to spend money I may as well make sure it is right as I have no intention of selling the car.

Will it make any difference to the running in period/method having a PPP, induction kit and exhaust?

p.s. looking through old posts it seems that even some of the renowned/well known engine builders on scoobynet say that Mobil 1 is fine. Is this a contreversial subject as you mention it being no good for running in a rebuilt engine?

 

I always thought it was the grade that was the important bit i.e. not less than 10w/40 - the different makes seem to be down to personal choice??

Can't see the running in of a car with PPP etc. being any different but I'm sure somebody will clarify this one way or another

 

We sell starters at £25.00 plus VAT Engines are a liiiiiiitle bit more.

David APi Engines / APi Impreza

 

There will always be a huge debate on engine oils.
Personal choice IMHO.
I have used Shell Helix in my hill climb 911 for 14 years, thraped to an inch of its unburstable life and still perfect.
My hill climb Impreza has been thrashed for 3 years on road and hill climbs and is great. David at API has seen inside the bores and the cross-hatching was still there.
My Yaris also runs Helix!

Just followed my own advice today on my engine, starter motor is fine after 3 sessions of 20 second cranking over, all's well as there is no compression to fight.

The wizz kid on this lot is David @ API above as they do dozens of engines each month.
Just that I've done this for 15 years and more now and it works for me!

911.

 

As implied above, if you take the plugs out there is very little load on the starter as there is no compression - it sounds odd, just whizzes away.