Black oil in 3k miles?
#1
Scooby Senior
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Essex
Posts: 2,600
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Black oil in 3k miles?
Another oil question to add the many before...
Did an oil change @ 10miles and now only 3k later it's already very dark, is this normal? and is darkened oil knackered? surely after 3k it must still be ok.
The oil in my last car (honda CTR) didn't seem to darken so quickly, any ideas why?
Dipster
Did an oil change @ 10miles and now only 3k later it's already very dark, is this normal? and is darkened oil knackered? surely after 3k it must still be ok.
The oil in my last car (honda CTR) didn't seem to darken so quickly, any ideas why?
Dipster
#2
Yup same with mine. Years ago I read that showed the oil was doing it's work and holding "stuff" in suspension. However as your Honda our 99 1.3 Micra I change oil 4.5K and it looks cleaner than Scoob at 3K.
Lots on here change at 3K some 2K and trackday fans often before and after each trackday.
Anyway oil is lots less than engine rebuild.
Lots on here change at 3K some 2K and trackday fans often before and after each trackday.
Anyway oil is lots less than engine rebuild.
#3
Scooby Senior
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Essex
Posts: 2,600
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Vegescoob
Yup same with mine. Years ago I read that showed the oil was doing it's work and holding "stuff" in suspension. However as your Honda our 99 1.3 Micra I change oil 4.5K and it looks cleaner than Scoob at 3K.
Lots on here change at 3K some 2K and trackday fans often before and after each trackday.
Anyway oil is lots less than engine rebuild.
Lots on here change at 3K some 2K and trackday fans often before and after each trackday.
Anyway oil is lots less than engine rebuild.
metal, carbon, air contaminants or just the heat of a turbo?
Do you think I would get less colouration using a different oil?
Cheers
Dipster
#4
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
Only real way of knowing is sending a sample off to an oil lab and get it tested - then you'll know exactly what is going on. (something I would love to do myself, testing with various oils to call an end to the great oil debate - if only I had the time )
Just a question though....before you changed the oil, how long had the oil been in there before you changed it to the current oil, and how many miles? Also how "black"?
If you had mucky oil before your oil change, then as soon as you pour some fresh oil in it will go black very quickly. It's not that the oil has got dirty all of a sudden, more so it's just mixed up with whats left of the old oil hanging round in the nooks and crannies of the engine.
And finally, how you been driving it (like a learner, like you stole it, or like you want to break it)? and what oil type (ester synthectic, synthetic or semi synthetic)?
Just a question though....before you changed the oil, how long had the oil been in there before you changed it to the current oil, and how many miles? Also how "black"?
If you had mucky oil before your oil change, then as soon as you pour some fresh oil in it will go black very quickly. It's not that the oil has got dirty all of a sudden, more so it's just mixed up with whats left of the old oil hanging round in the nooks and crannies of the engine.
And finally, how you been driving it (like a learner, like you stole it, or like you want to break it)? and what oil type (ester synthectic, synthetic or semi synthetic)?
#5
Really waiting for one of the oil experts to come along to say what exactly in "stuff" but I think as you say, perhaps apart from metal, hoping tiny metal particles are mostly in filter!
You don't say which oil you use. Do a search on here under oil and read. You will find this is hotly debated and ultimately you have to decide what make/grade to use in your car with reference to type of use, your driving and engine spec/mileage.
You don't say which oil you use. Do a search on here under oil and read. You will find this is hotly debated and ultimately you have to decide what make/grade to use in your car with reference to type of use, your driving and engine spec/mileage.
#7
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Bournemouth - 5x Ex Impreza owner. 997 GT3 CS.
Posts: 7,333
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I can get oil analysed quite easily
Suspended particles are a combinations of things as per above, that are either disolved in the oil, or held in suspension. Anything begger gets caught in the filter media.
Bit of a tricky one on oil changes, you seem to increase the chance of an engine failure every time you change the oil in a classic scoob
MB
Suspended particles are a combinations of things as per above, that are either disolved in the oil, or held in suspension. Anything begger gets caught in the filter media.
Bit of a tricky one on oil changes, you seem to increase the chance of an engine failure every time you change the oil in a classic scoob
MB
Trending Topics
#10
the blackness is a combination of the "sheared" molecular chains of the oil due to friction and "cooking", particles of carbon and engine material and the effects of the added detergents.
#11
Typical UOA mix of M1 and Redline
Element Smpl Avg
Aluminum 3 5
Chromium 1 1
Iron 5 10
Copper 1 6
Lead 1 4
Tin 1 4
Moly 139 93
Nickel 0 0
Manganese 0 0
Silver 0 0
Titanium 0 0
Potassium 2 2
Boron 103 67
Silicon 5 8
Sodium 6 6
Calcium 2591 2143
Magnesium 12 113
Phosphorus788 778
Zinc 896 919
Barium 0 0
Visc@210 59.7 54-61
Flashpt 405 >365
Fuel% <0.5 <2.0
A/F% 0 0
Water% 0 <0.1
Insolubles0.3 <0.6
Element Smpl Avg
Aluminum 3 5
Chromium 1 1
Iron 5 10
Copper 1 6
Lead 1 4
Tin 1 4
Moly 139 93
Nickel 0 0
Manganese 0 0
Silver 0 0
Titanium 0 0
Potassium 2 2
Boron 103 67
Silicon 5 8
Sodium 6 6
Calcium 2591 2143
Magnesium 12 113
Phosphorus788 778
Zinc 896 919
Barium 0 0
Visc@210 59.7 54-61
Flashpt 405 >365
Fuel% <0.5 <2.0
A/F% 0 0
Water% 0 <0.1
Insolubles0.3 <0.6
#12
Originally Posted by buzzard
the blackness is a combination of the "sheared" molecular chains of the oil due to friction and "cooking", particles of carbon and engine material and the effects of the added detergents.
#13
Scooby Senior
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Essex
Posts: 2,600
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Vegescoob
I understand that but why in our examples does the oil from the Scoobys seem blacker than the longer mileage oil in the Honda /Nissan. Is it just that the Scooby engine is working harder cos of it's higher specific output than the others? Cos our Micra propably spends longer at higher revs than the Scoob.
Dipster
#15
also becaus of boxer engie oil is working in a different way, has to travel further etc plus heat from turbo
you could try using a top fully synthetic oil bu to be honest regular changes is more adviseable, depends how hard your driving it
you could try using a top fully synthetic oil bu to be honest regular changes is more adviseable, depends how hard your driving it
#17
Originally Posted by Dark Blue Mark
The motion of the pistons is the same so makes no odds. The heat is the key thing...
MB
MB
#19
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Bournemouth - 5x Ex Impreza owner. 997 GT3 CS.
Posts: 7,333
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I dont think there is any issue here, as said, the oil will turn darker as it picks up contaminants and that's not neccasarily a problem. Its why the interval is 7.5k on classic scoobs, and about 10-15k on N/A cars.
Yes it will run hotter as it passes the turbo, and will be subject to coking in bad cases, if the oil isn't left to circulate afer a hard run. As its not a scavenge system, some of it will sit on the turbo when the car is off, and get a bit fried hence a cooldown period is a good thing, as is a very good grade of oil.
Not sure what their justification is on moving out the frequency on newer scoobs is though...
MB
Yes it will run hotter as it passes the turbo, and will be subject to coking in bad cases, if the oil isn't left to circulate afer a hard run. As its not a scavenge system, some of it will sit on the turbo when the car is off, and get a bit fried hence a cooldown period is a good thing, as is a very good grade of oil.
Not sure what their justification is on moving out the frequency on newer scoobs is though...
MB
#20
Originally Posted by ALi-B
Scoobs do have a oil cooler as standard...an oil to water type - just above the oil filter if you look.
It also serves a handy purpose of heating the oil when cold as well as cooling it when hot
It also serves a handy purpose of heating the oil when cold as well as cooling it when hot
#21
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (9)
Basically, if the oil is black then it's doing it's job. Some discolour more than others and synthetics tend in the main to be more efficient cleaners than others and can discolour quickly but this doesn't mean the oil no good.
Just pull out the dipstick and rub a sample between your fingers, it shouldn't be too gritty and shouldn't smell burnt.
Cheers
Simon
Just pull out the dipstick and rub a sample between your fingers, it shouldn't be too gritty and shouldn't smell burnt.
Cheers
Simon
#24
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Bournemouth - 5x Ex Impreza owner. 997 GT3 CS.
Posts: 7,333
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I blame it on the Flux Capacitor
Dave, Subaru do not specify a fully synth oil, but its widely regarded as better practice to use fully synth. Especially if its modded or you do track days.
MB
Dave, Subaru do not specify a fully synth oil, but its widely regarded as better practice to use fully synth. Especially if its modded or you do track days.
MB
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
speedrick
Subaru Parts
0
26 September 2015 03:01 PM