O2/Lambda sensor voltage - what readings should i be seeing?
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From: 2010 Time Attack Club Pro Champion - Powered by ScoobyClinic
what voltage readings should i be seeing at idle, cruise & on boost? and should it be a steady, constant reading? need to know if my lambda sensor is knackered or not
Idle/cruise should show anything between 0 and ~0.8, and should be quite dynamic.
Open-loop should be around 0.9, give or take, and should be fairly static.
A knackered one (like mine, for instance) will under-read, and the worse it gets the more it will under-read. This is where your fuel consumption goes pear-shaped (assuming you do a fair amount of closed loop driving). If your AFR gauge is segmented from 0 up to 1v, you will notice many more segments lit up together than normal, as the ECU struggles to find the stoichiometric ratio using the dodgy info being sent to it from the lambda sensor.
How old is it? And what type? Mine lasted about 12 months, and was a £25 Bosch universal beast from a local Motor Factor. Apparently the Subaru OEM lasts alot longer, but costs more than 4 times as much...
Open-loop should be around 0.9, give or take, and should be fairly static.
A knackered one (like mine, for instance) will under-read, and the worse it gets the more it will under-read. This is where your fuel consumption goes pear-shaped (assuming you do a fair amount of closed loop driving). If your AFR gauge is segmented from 0 up to 1v, you will notice many more segments lit up together than normal, as the ECU struggles to find the stoichiometric ratio using the dodgy info being sent to it from the lambda sensor.
How old is it? And what type? Mine lasted about 12 months, and was a £25 Bosch universal beast from a local Motor Factor. Apparently the Subaru OEM lasts alot longer, but costs more than 4 times as much...
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From: 2010 Time Attack Club Pro Champion - Powered by ScoobyClinic
i'm taking the readings from my power fc commander, i'm getting 0.02v -> 0.86v on idle/cruise, but it's not a constant reading, it just goes up and down (i'm not into all this electronic jargon
) about once per second 
i've been trying to wire in my lambdalink but i'm not seeing any of the lights light up
the lambda sensor is probably the orignal one (my95)
) about once per second 
i've been trying to wire in my lambdalink but i'm not seeing any of the lights light up

the lambda sensor is probably the orignal one (my95)
In Closed-Loop (i.e. idle or cruising), then it should be like a SIN wave (viewed in something like DeltaDash), gently rising to a peak and then dropping down to a minimum, then backup again ... and so on.
When mine was knackered it say at 0.03v constantly.
Stefan
When mine was knackered it say at 0.03v constantly.
Stefan
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right, so the voltage rising and dropping is correct
glad i've got that sorted 
so can i presume the lambdalink is not working then? or, the wiring diagram i used for my ecu to wire it up was wrong (used the my96 as thats the only one available on the net)
glad i've got that sorted 
so can i presume the lambdalink is not working then? or, the wiring diagram i used for my ecu to wire it up was wrong (used the my96 as thats the only one available on the net)
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just fitted a lambda link to my 94wrx but all i get is a constant green(far right). had a new o2 sensor fitted about a year ago. should i get any activity on the lambda link or is a constant green ok?
nathan
nathan
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From: 2010 Time Attack Club Pro Champion - Powered by ScoobyClinic
in the same boat as me, i wired mine in the wrong way and got a constant green light, wired in the right way now and i get nothing
how should it be wired? i got mine wired direct to the o2 sensor coz im running GEMS and the sensor is not used by this. the sensor has 3 wires coming from it, a red, a black and a white. i have tapped into the white for a signal. correct??
nathan
nathan
Apart from Powercrazed, I'd say you're all using the wrong pin on your ECUs...!
Powercrazed, I think the signal wire is the black. The red and white are the + and - for the heater.
Powercrazed, I think the signal wire is the black. The red and white are the + and - for the heater.
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