bren@apex

iTrader: (20)

Looks like Ive just got my self a new toy, a 1993 WRX Type RA Impreza.

I dont know a great deal about these cars so can I get some help working out what my model has got. Ive tried doing a search but gave up after a while

This is what I know and need to know:

Its a lightweight rally edition

Its got aluminium bonnet and other bits. What bits exactly?

Its got a close ratio box. What sort of top end will it have?

Its possibly got adjustable centre diff? Or is that just the later cars?

Its got a highly tunable engine apparently. Something to do with it being a closed deck sand cast. What does that mean and how does it make the engine stronger?

Ive also read that they come with a fifth injector. Is this used with the standard map?

The cars got coilovers, exhaust and some other basic tuning components. What else can I do to make it more exciting. Ive read that the bump steer mod makes a lot of difference so thats high on my list of things to do.

Apparently the cars running 0.8bar. Is this standard boost? What boost can they run safely without other mods?

Can someone please give me a rough list and order as to how to tune the engine please. Ive also got a 200SX running 368bhp@wheels so the Scoobys going to feel pretty slow without some tweeks. The 200s got nitrous kit on it thats not being used at the moment (the 368 is on standard rods and pistons! It wont take nitrous as well) so thatll probably go straight on the Scooby for an instant hit.

Any links to info on the car would be cool.

Any help would be greatly recieved as Im seriously into tuning my cars so would love to have some mods lined up for when the car gets to me

RRH

I hope this helps. Driving an RA is in some ways like driving a powerful rwd car due to its rwd bias- just take it easy and build experience and confidence. I really would not recommend getting her sideways on your first trip- as they're quite different on the edge to a pure rwd car.

bren@apex

iTrader: (20)

Thanks for the info, much appriciated The 200s pretty good at transferring the power partly because its got traction control and partly because it rolls on Yoko 048s so you struggle to get it out of shape in the dry without trying

One of the main driving forces to buying the car is that Ive sold the engine out of my S14 (368 one) and our S13, although it will be high spec and decent power, still isnt finished We have two sessions booked in at Trax and I want to go in something other than Ann (my other halfs) track Civic.

Im not into drifting or getting the back end out on the road but I am seriously into getting out on a track and have ALWAYS wanted a Scooby. This one was offered to me yesterday and with the close ratio box and light weight just seemed ideal until we get our S13 together and get the proper engine in our S14 (we are going for serious power for next year ).

Im into Apexi stuff, Im assuming a Power FC will be fine in terms of management?

So whats going to stop me getting to 340bhp? The clutch will be on its edge at that level but it might take it? The engine should be happy at this level? what about the box? Im not into abusing cars on the launch so it wont be given seriously grief.

What about the injectors?

Im assuming the cars got some sort of induction kit but probably not a decat with it being a Jap import. Ill sort one of those straight sway. Are they the same for all Impreza turbos or are they model specific?

I assume the brakes are going to be pretty pants. What are they, 276mm fronts with twin pot calipers? I know some Scoobys run the same front pads as the 4 pot 200 calipers but I dont think our car will have 4 pots will it?

Thanks again for the help

RRH

The engine box and clutch should all be ok at 340. make sure you monitor fuelling by way of an AFR and I would fit a knock-link immediately.

I'm not quite sure what route is best to get you there though; a 94 type RA only has 240 as standard, although it will feel bloody quick due to the short gearing.

I would try to avoid anything that is going to tax the drivetrain- stay away from drag-style starts and let it roll a little before booting it.

RRH

http://www.sidc.co.uk/faq.htm

TopBanana

Mine doesn't feel rear-biased?

RRH

Injectors should be ok but not sure which ones the early cars run. an uprated fuel pump and reg may be wise.

brakes- they'll do the job just, but your early ones will be two pots. either look for a set of four pots from a later car, or go the AP / Brembo / Godspeed route.

I'd also consider doing the ARB drop links and the ARB's possibly, check the coilovers and service / re-valve if deemed necessary. the RA can be transformed by a proper geometry set-up- and you can tame or emphasis the rear-drive side of things as much as you like with adjustable rear castor.

induction wise, the earlier cars have a hot wire MAF sensor so are better with induction kits that the later cars (which have a hot film MAF and are prone to failure) it should increase the responsiveness quite nicely, but just make sure it doesn't run too lean.

RRH

TopBanana, it is mate. It is relative however- have you driven a UK car on non- typeRA? they can feel quite 'inert' in comparison. the geometry on yours may have been set up to dial out some of the **** end out tendancy.

The RA has a torque split of 37/63% front/rear (ish) as opposed to roughly 50/50 of other models excluding the type R.

beario

hi there bren i have a 94 ra also..and i can asure you it does not feel slow,due to the close ratio box..mine has a few bits on it,about 270bhp...and i ran a 13.6 @ 1 bar at santa pod..i have just bought some spec -r headers and am waiting to reiceve them..i have been informed that i should get roughly 10-15 bhp and 25 torque from headers,,but i will draw my own conclusions when i rolling road...whats your location..i am in herts..cheers nigel

bren@apex

iTrader: (20)

The Power FC comes with a knock display Ive got a wide band so can keep a check on fueling whilst we are messing with the car. Im not a hooligan and have a fair bit of mechanical sympathy so wont be giving the car serious grief off the starts.

What pumps do you guys fit? Are Walbro GSS 341s a common upgrade? Also rebranded as Systec in the UK.

We do a 310mm kit for the 200s, Im sure we can convert and modify it to fit the Subarus with the later 4 post calipers. The kit works very well on 200s, even semi competition machines, so it should be ok for a light weight Scooby

What ARBs do Scooby guys go for? Are Whitelines commonly used?

Ive had a look through the sidc faq section but it seems very basic and focuses on Prodrive etc conversions rather than the bolt on and tune side. Thats the side Im interested in.

When you say Spec R Im assuming youre not meaning Spec R the shiny bits people in the UK?

Im thinking of fitting a Hybrid intercooler. i know theres a huge thread on them but without delving through all 12 pags of it can anyone give me a simple yeah theyre great or no theyre cr@p verdict on them please

I cant wait to get the car, Im like a kid at Christmas!!

bren@apex

iTrader: (20)

Im in Bradford near Leeds, Yorkshire

I think your car has a better engine than the earlier 93 ones. Defo more power anyway.

TopBanana

Hmm, I'm certain the WRX Type RA has the same viscous centre diff as the UK models - with a 50/50 torque split. It's the STis that have the 35/65% split.

TopBanana

Yep that's the one everyone seems to fit.

I've got Whiteline 22mm / 24mm front / rear. Works well on my RA.

Very good. Fitting can be more involved that other models but it sounds like you enjoy that sort of thing

bren@apex

iTrader: (20)

Aye I dont mind getting stuck in

Ive built up a list of first round mods, this is where Im at so far:

New 16" (seem to be best for ultimate handling according to sidc faq) rims with Dunlop D01Js

Whiteline roll bars front and rear

Bump steer mod: not sure now as there seems to be some contention about it??

Decat (if its not been done)

Induction filter (if its not been done) although Im a bit dubious about this after reading that changing the filter can effect the maf signal?

Colder plugs

Boost controller to raise boost to 1.1 bar (with wide band to check fueling)

Walbro GSS341

Hybrid intercooler

310mm brake kit if we can make it fit.

Recirc bov

Just got to get the car now Thanks for the help guys

TopBanana

At 1.1bar you won't need to uprate the fuel pump, go to an FMIC or install colder plugs. The standard dump valve also works very well. I'd get a ScoobyECU (£100) instead of a boost controller. This will remap the original ECU with both a 1.1bar boost target and ignition settings suitable for Optimax. PM David Wallis on here, who supplies them.

Go over to 22b.com. There's a thread about how to do the bumpsteer mod yourself It involves shimming the steering rack.

If you intend to go over 1.1bar in the future, I'd skip the ScoobyECU and get an Apexi PowerFC. You can then add FMIC, fuel pump etc in future when you're ready. Just bear in mind that Subaru gearboxes are quite weak!

bren@apex

iTrader: (20)

Id rather 'over engineer' the car now, so to speak, and stick an FC straight on. We get the pumps and intercoolers for not a lot of money so the car will get them anyway

I only say 1,1 bar because someone said that was a sensible level to go for. If I can run more then i will. Presumably the standard thrust bearing isnt going to like much higher boost than that though?

If we fit FMIC, pump, Power FC, colder plugs then whats the next weak link? Injectors presumably? What about the turbo, what boost can they run without destroying themselves?

If we were going to change the turbo then whats a good proven replacement to run upto the limits of the stock engine and box? What about the standard clutch, whats that good for?

Sorry for all the questions but Im a knowledge seeker and like to know what Im doing and where Im going with my cars

TopBanana

Excellent - can you sort me one then please

It's the sensible limit with standard injectors, fuel pump, intercooler etc.

Yep the injectors are 380cc, and are good for about 280bhp and std fuel pressure. That's about the point where the std pump starts to become out of its depth too. Worth going to 550cc's, but they're quite hard to come by for a reasonable price! The turbo itself is very strong. I know the rally boys push them towards the 2 bar figure in the mid-range, but if it were my car I'd happily run it at 1.6bar reducing to 1.2 bar at the top. You will kill your gearbox doing this though, be warned

The standard turbo in the early cars (TD05-16g) is capable of killing the gearbox. People have produced very big power on standard engines, but Subaru engines are very vulnerable to damage by det. I would recommend keeping your standard turbo and changing the compressor cover to front-entry at the same time as installing the FMIC.

No worries... just don't get the impression I know what I'm talking about - there are some more clued up people than me on here.

bren@apex

iTrader: (20)

What injectors do people run? Densos, HKS?

What kills the boxes? Is it hard starts or can they just not take the torque on acceleration? What do people do to upgrade the boxes?

They run a Greddy type turbo then? Or a Mitsubishi one? How do you change the compressor cover, I mean where do you get the new covers from and why change it?

The 200s also have strong engines but are also very suceptible to det. Im running our S14 on standard rods and pistons so I know to be careful re det

Looking round I cant seem to find decat front pipes for sensible money. Theyre £200+. Am I missing the local cheap Scooby supplier or do I just import an Apexi GT Spec front pipe and have done with it?

No probs, let me know what you want, seriously

bren@apex

iTrader: (20)

Ive found some new straight fit 540cc injectors for £250 delivered inc vat

It seems Scooby shops are selling them for £440 +vat, i.e. £517!! And then they arent a straight fit and require wiring modifications!!

TopBanana

Densos seem a popular choice

I think it's just the torque - it's normally third gear that goes IIRC. Obviously hard starts are going to kill it very quickly indeed. You can get a dog gear kit, for about 2k or so, but most people these days are going straight to a 6-speed synchro conversion from the new-age STis. An expensive change (£1700ish seems the going rate), but they seem almost indestructable. Second best choice is to go for a 5-speed from a 99/00 STi, as they seem to be much stronger.

People change them to front entry in order to avoid a 90 degree bend in airflow. I'm not sure how much difference it makes, but all the big power boys seem to swear by the mod. A guy called Andy.F on here does the conversions, and sells the parts too I believe.

Sounds like you know the score then! Your RA will have cast pistons, but I think the cams are a bit funky. I think the valvegear isn't as good as the STi stuff though, so you might not want to rev it too much. Someone else can probably give you more info on that.

Check out the for sale section - the second-hand parts Scooby community is thriving. Otherwise yep, importing stuff is often a cheap option.

bren@apex

iTrader: (20)

Thanks muchley, thats plenty to get me going. The cars being delivered on Sunday, cant wait!