Knocklink modification
#1
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: SIDC East Sussex Regional Organiser and 555 Wagon Squadron Flight Officer
Posts: 770
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Knocklink modification
Some time ago, I recall a thread detailing a little box with LEDs that you plugged into the knocklink itself. Someone was providing this modification to allow more freedom of mounting with this remote unit.
I have tried a search but to no avail.
Can anyone recall this, and is the modification still available?
Thanks for any help.
Keith
I have tried a search but to no avail.
Can anyone recall this, and is the modification still available?
Thanks for any help.
Keith
#2
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Swilling coffee at my lab bench
Posts: 9,096
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Several people have physically removed the LEDs from the KL itself, soldered on extension wires and mounted them somewhere visible (even within the instrument cluster itself), while keeping the less-than-pretty KL box itself hidden. There's no 'official' mod of which I'm aware.
#3
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 649
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Here is the thread you are after. Guy you want is Turbo Steve.
http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/showthread.php?t=322881
http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/showthread.php?t=322881
#4
Hello T'was me!
Just a comment on extending the LEDs...have seen a couple of these "spaghetti" mods, and simply running wires from the PCB to the LEDs strikes me as a nightmare: not only have all the ones I have seen not secured or protected the wires in any way, but they have also used twice as many as required. Knocklinks use a common l+ve to the LEDS, so simply bringing a single +ve and 5 -ves is sufficient, and allows you to choose a decent multicore cable. Additionally, solid cores should NOT be used, as they break (as discovered by Harvey). The best choice is usually line level audio cable.....6-core.
Also, moving the leds, soldering them and then holding them in position with hot-glue really isn't that sufficient, as the connections can work loose inside the hot glue. Leds need to be correctly supported at the lens, and need to be adequately restrained at the legs. Ideally, this means mounting them in a PCB or at least a piece of veroboard.
Just a comment on extending the LEDs...have seen a couple of these "spaghetti" mods, and simply running wires from the PCB to the LEDs strikes me as a nightmare: not only have all the ones I have seen not secured or protected the wires in any way, but they have also used twice as many as required. Knocklinks use a common l+ve to the LEDS, so simply bringing a single +ve and 5 -ves is sufficient, and allows you to choose a decent multicore cable. Additionally, solid cores should NOT be used, as they break (as discovered by Harvey). The best choice is usually line level audio cable.....6-core.
Also, moving the leds, soldering them and then holding them in position with hot-glue really isn't that sufficient, as the connections can work loose inside the hot glue. Leds need to be correctly supported at the lens, and need to be adequately restrained at the legs. Ideally, this means mounting them in a PCB or at least a piece of veroboard.
#7
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: SIDC East Sussex Regional Organiser and 555 Wagon Squadron Flight Officer
Posts: 770
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Turbo Steve
Are you still doing this mod and if so how do we go about this? I am obviously very interested.
Keith
Are you still doing this mod and if so how do we go about this? I am obviously very interested.
Keith
Trending Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Wingnuttzz
Member's Gallery
30
26 April 2022 11:15 PM
blockhead
Subaru Parts
19
07 November 2015 11:50 PM