Check engine light!
#1
Check engine light!
My little check engine light made it's maiden appearance today. It came on as I was driving to work, about a minute after setting off. I nursed the car to work, below 2500rpm, and a mile before I arrived it went off again. Now, the questions I'd like an answer to..
1. What could have caused it?
2. Why would the answer to 1 have disappeared?
3. Do I need to do anything or just keep an eye out for it coming back?
I did phone a dealer who suggested a bit of dirty fuel that passed (1/4 tank at the moment), but I know that ignoring these things can be very costly!
For the technically minded amongst you: MY2000 turbo, Decat centre, BOV, Backbox, K&N Panel.
Thanks for any feedback
Worried Si
1. What could have caused it?
2. Why would the answer to 1 have disappeared?
3. Do I need to do anything or just keep an eye out for it coming back?
I did phone a dealer who suggested a bit of dirty fuel that passed (1/4 tank at the moment), but I know that ignoring these things can be very costly!
For the technically minded amongst you: MY2000 turbo, Decat centre, BOV, Backbox, K&N Panel.
Thanks for any feedback
Worried Si
#2
CHECK ENGINE
I had this on my old 99. got more and more persistent but never near dealer. They said they just recet ecu. Only day came on and stayed on was the day i traded in for new one so never new what it was but would be interested to know
#5
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http://www.ponyexpressperformance.co...liminator.html
It can also be the lambda sond that is damaged. Try first to reset the ECU by taking the power connectors of the battery
It can also be the lambda sond that is damaged. Try first to reset the ECU by taking the power connectors of the battery
#6
Originally Posted by Boyakasha
Probably due to your decat, get someone who has delta dash etc to check your car as the fault should be registered.
Si
#7
Originally Posted by Swede-STI
http://www.ponyexpressperformance.co...liminator.html
It can also be the lambda sond that is damaged. Try first to reset the ECU by taking the power connectors of the battery
It can also be the lambda sond that is damaged. Try first to reset the ECU by taking the power connectors of the battery
Thanks for all this guys... keep it coming
Si
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Originally Posted by Si of Sheff
Can anyone confirm this? I've had the decat centre for 16 months, and it's still got the cat in the downpipe. Would it take this long to light the bulb? PS all other 'mods' (harsh term for the tame stuff I've done!) are as old or older than 16 months.
Si
Si
Some cars can get this fault when they use a bov that wents to the atmosphere.
It can take 6 month.....1 year....2 year before this faults happened. It just depends how lucky You are.
#9
Originally Posted by Swede-STI
If a turbocar for example goes fat (to much fuel) The result will be a damaged cat.
Some cars can get this fault when they use a bov that wents to the atmosphere.
It can take 6 month.....1 year....2 year before this faults happened. It just depends how lucky You are.
Some cars can get this fault when they use a bov that wents to the atmosphere.
It can take 6 month.....1 year....2 year before this faults happened. It just depends how lucky You are.
Thanks for the hlp Swede-STI
Si
#10
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Originally Posted by Si of Sheff
I still don't understand why it would take 16 months and 20k miles to show up? Is it that the fuel mix could have changed, ******** the remaining cat?
Thanks for the hlp Swede-STI
Si
Thanks for the hlp Swede-STI
Si
I had the same fault on my Porsche before when i went for bigger hybridturbos and a open BOV. It sounded real good when it wented for the atmosphere but the cars MAF will be confused and sometimes gives the engine to much fuel.
I am not 100% familliar with the Subaru engine yet. But I read somewhere before that You could buy a upgraded MAF or something like that to prevent the MAF for getting damage when using a open BOV and to prevent the car to go fat.
#11
Hi Mate,
Same thing happened to me on my MY00 with no mods at the time. Took it to the dealer who said it might be the Oxygen sensor.
They put it on the diagnostic and there was no reading of the fault.
I have since had my ECU reset (still OEM) and it hasn't happened since.
If you're really worried take it to Subaru and get it on the diagnostic.
Same thing happened to me on my MY00 with no mods at the time. Took it to the dealer who said it might be the Oxygen sensor.
They put it on the diagnostic and there was no reading of the fault.
I have since had my ECU reset (still OEM) and it hasn't happened since.
If you're really worried take it to Subaru and get it on the diagnostic.
#12
[QUOTE=Si of Sheff]My little check engine light made it's maiden appearance today. It came on as I was driving to work, about a minute after setting off. I nursed the car to work, below 2500rpm, and a mile before I arrived it went off again. Now, the questions I'd like an answer to..
1. What could have caused it?
2. Why would the answer to 1 have disappeared?
3. Do I need to do anything or just keep an eye out for it coming back?
I did phone a dealer who suggested a bit of dirty fuel that passed (1/4 tank at the moment), but I know that ignoring these things can be very costly!
For the technically minded amongst you: MY2000 turbo, Decat centre, BOV, Backbox, K&N Panel.
Thanks for any feedback
Had this on my rb5,only came on for short time then went off.Took it to dealer who said it was a sensor(02 i think),in the top of exhaust,needed replacing which they did under warranty.Couldnt get it out so had to replace exhaust part as well.Thank god I took out the extended warranty.
1. What could have caused it?
2. Why would the answer to 1 have disappeared?
3. Do I need to do anything or just keep an eye out for it coming back?
I did phone a dealer who suggested a bit of dirty fuel that passed (1/4 tank at the moment), but I know that ignoring these things can be very costly!
For the technically minded amongst you: MY2000 turbo, Decat centre, BOV, Backbox, K&N Panel.
Thanks for any feedback
Had this on my rb5,only came on for short time then went off.Took it to dealer who said it was a sensor(02 i think),in the top of exhaust,needed replacing which they did under warranty.Couldnt get it out so had to replace exhaust part as well.Thank god I took out the extended warranty.
#13
Originally Posted by Si of Sheff
Can the Lambda sensor be checked, or is it a replace and hope job?
Thanks for all this guys... keep it coming
Si
Thanks for all this guys... keep it coming
Si
If this sensor is u/s you should be using more fuel than normal.
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There are a couple of things you can do. The first one Richiewong suggested above. If your lambda sensor's gone, it will flash a code 32 at you.
The second is to carry out an ECU reset. If the lambda's shot, the reset will flash a code 32 at you. If it's on it's way out, but with a bit of life left in it, the CEL all clear will take significantly longer than usual (10 seconds).
If you need a new one, they're about £30 from a Motor Factor (use Yell...)
The second is to carry out an ECU reset. If the lambda's shot, the reset will flash a code 32 at you. If it's on it's way out, but with a bit of life left in it, the CEL all clear will take significantly longer than usual (10 seconds).
If you need a new one, they're about £30 from a Motor Factor (use Yell...)
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Si, the CEL (Check Engine Light) could be coming on for a number of reasons. All the above suggestions are pure guesses because we don't know what the fault code is. You can get the fault code without any special equipment whatsoever, it's a doddle. Follow Richie's link above, it tells you how to do it.
Post the fault code(s) back on here and I'm sure someone will help you.
Post the fault code(s) back on here and I'm sure someone will help you.
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Does anyone know where the connector block is on the link above?? It looks to me if its behind the dash. Also do you need a special connector to make the connections.
Cheers
Simon
Cheers
Simon
#18
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Originally Posted by Simon C
Does anyone know where the connector block is on the link above?? It looks to me if its behind the dash. Also do you need a special connector to make the connections.
Cheers
Simon
Cheers
Simon
There should be 2 black connectors and 2 larger green connectors.
Sometimes they are taped up. Very easy procedure to check/reset ECU once you locate them
No equipment needed, simply plug them in and of your like me, put your effing back out from crawling around
Last edited by richiewong; 20 July 2004 at 10:24 AM.
#20
Gents -
You've all been a great help. I'll be passing the dealer this saturday so I'll get them to 'plug in'. It hasn't reappeared since so I assume whatever sensor caused the problem is doing its job at the moment. I'll update if all is not well
Thanks
Si
You've all been a great help. I'll be passing the dealer this saturday so I'll get them to 'plug in'. It hasn't reappeared since so I assume whatever sensor caused the problem is doing its job at the moment. I'll update if all is not well
Thanks
Si
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Can someone take a photo of where they are please or try to describe where they are. I've just looked under the drivers side dash and all I can see is yellow and black connectors. No green ones.
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You have to push the drivers seat right back and, as the judge says, do a sort of crab so you back is lying across the sill and into in the footwell. Look up behind the dash. You should see some disconnected black connectors. Simply plug them together, switch the ignition on and see what fault code flashes on the CEL. You do not need any kit or other wires/connectors, simply connect what's there.
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There are a lot of black connectors under my dash and they are all the same, males and females. Which ones go together, or if I do it by trial and error, am I likely to do any damage?
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Not all of them but most are on short think wires. How many wires are going into these connectors?? Maybe I should add that my car is a MY97 Sport.
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Update time. I've foun the 2 single wired connetors and connected them together. When the iginition was turned the CEL flashed indicating all ok. Now I cant find any green connecters under there, so took it as a ecu reset and went for a drive, slowly and sedaitly. And its running as it was before all this started.
Now I do have 1 question rising from this. I have 1 connector thas female with 2 wires going into it and no male under the dash. I also have 2 bare connectors as the photo shows. Any ideas??
Cheers
Simon
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/verminh...Picture(3).jpg
Now I do have 1 question rising from this. I have 1 connector thas female with 2 wires going into it and no male under the dash. I also have 2 bare connectors as the photo shows. Any ideas??
Cheers
Simon
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/verminh...Picture(3).jpg
Last edited by Simon C; 20 July 2004 at 07:22 PM.
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