BuRR

Does anyone else have this setup?

I also have full Decat, green panel filter and walbro fuel pump. Fuel reg to follow.

I have my boost set to 1.1 bar on a Dawes, however am getting a fair few warnings on my knock link.

I've tried Octane booster, which has helped somewhat, but am still a little bit paranoid. - I think I'll eventually be heading down the TEK3 route if I can't sort this properly.

I'd be interested to hear details other people's setups. (or similar ones for that matter)

NM

I had my UK MY98 with VF24 turbo remapped by Power Engineering Phase2/Tek2 in Jan so here is my graph and info

GRAPH !

Thats

1.3 BAR peak boost producing 288 Lbf torque

Max power is 311 BHP @ 6811 RPM

She holds over 260lbf between 3400 - 5900 revs


The mods

Zaust
Downpipe, 3" Modified HKS straight through (now a twin dump)
Centre, 3" decat straight through (prototype)
Back box, Magnex 6x4

Engine
KNi induction kit with cold feed via resonator removal and when not raining mini bonnet scoop, home made heatshield.
VF24 turbo from an STi4 with heat shield in a nice shade of manifold red (don't ask !)
440cc STi 5 yellow injectors, fitted with Pavlo's adapters.
Walbro in tank fuel pump and regulator with adjustable gauge.
Intercooler tilted, air splitter, manual / automatic water spray.
Samco hoses fitted to Intercooler.
AP organic clutch
Roger Clark 5.5kg flywheel
Engine undertray removed (Harvey reckons its 7deg C heat reduction)

Monitors
Knocklink with Bosh sensor, located under intercooler next to engine number.
Dawes AFR
Boost gauge


Cheers

Neal

Scott.T

iTrader: (2)

From Memory the PPP ECU runs fairly lean compared to a AE801 or AE802 ECU. It may even run leaner then a stock TEK2.
You may be better off picking up an AE802 (which are normally cheap) and run that with the Dawes. The Ae802 runs he richest of the lot.

The advantage of this is you could then flog the PPP ECU which will help to fund a remap of the Ae802 should you need it.

WREXY

Actually the PPP ECU runs very rich, much like the 802. It's the timing and boost which is aggressive on the PPP ECU. Scott you mixed it up m8 with the lean running to the timing and boost, which is easy to do with all these different ECUs, however, good advice offered that the PPP ECU won't be safe for this application and to go for an 802.

BuRR

So can you explain (as layman terms as possible) why the PPP ECU isn't adequate for the job please?

dowser

Timing is more advanced. However, this shouldn't necessarily be a problem when switching from a TD04 to VF24 (car should take more timing with the larger turbo). You may well be off the end of the load scale though.....

Where are you getting the knocklink activity? - is the boost being held at 1.1 bar to the redline? Was the knocklink noisy on the TD04 too? Has the MAF been changed?

Richard

BuRR

The MAF has been checked on delta dash, and is within acceptable parameters.

On this particular tank, I'm running on SUL with about 1/2 a tin of Pro-Boost in it, and for the most of the time, the knock link is as quiet as a mouse..... apart from third. Every now and then, usually when working up through the gears at a high rate of knots I'll have several reds as I progress through the rev range - but only in third! The other gears are as quiet as a mouse.

Could it be some other noise in the engine bay?

I've turned boost down slightly on my Dawes, to 1.0 bar and still have the same activity.

I'm due to be fitting a fuel reg very soon.

Scott.T

iTrader: (2)

Sorry about mixing it up, but as I stated it was from memory....

Interesting that the timing can be more advanced with the VF24.

I am about to do a similar mod with a VF28, but I have a PE Tek's ECU.

WREXY

As Richard said you may well be off the end of the ignition advance load scale, which is why I pointed out that it may not be safe to run the PPP ECU.

As for other noises in the engine bay that the knocklink may pick up, I know of a few cars that have had a vibrating heatshield due to the bolts being loose. The knocklink was lighting up at certain revs due to this. Once the bolts were tightened, problem solved.

Scott,

I'd check the VF28 and Ecutek ECU, on Delta Dash to see if it's OK. I'm not sure what the parameters are on the PE Tek maps. Do a few logs, post them on here and we'll take a look if you like. If you don't already have a knocklink, I'd recommend the fitment of one to be able to check for det.

Cheers,

George.

BuRR

Well, I've now found a squeak from the front of the car to be down to a missing downpipe/gearbox bracket bolt, so maybe the 3rd gear knocklink lights might be down to this? Thew weird thing is that there is absolutely no other activity on the KL except in third gear.

ozzy

The ONLY way to correlate Knocklink activity is to get someone experienced to have a listen with det cans.

Did DeltaDash show any knock activity? I wouldn't trust it until someone tells you they can'y hear any det, but you'd need to rule out the bracket bolt first.

Stefan

dowser

What Stefan said