Peanuts

iTrader: (15)

in light of the response to my other thread I am hoping to perform a clutch fluid change over the weekend.

anyone got an idiots guide?

Andy

mart360

Hi Andy,

it should be the same as a brake bleed,

1) remove as much fluid from the cluch resovior as poss.

2) fill with sparkly new stuff.

3) depress clutch pedal.

4) keeping pedal depressed get a mate to crack open the bleed nipple on the clutch cylnder.

5) once your foot hits the floor, get your mate to close the nipple.

6) lift foot off pedal

repeat steps 3 - 6 until clear fluid runs through.


nb use a propper spanner for the nipples.... and give it squirt with wd40 or similar to free it off


give me a call if you get stuck

Mart

DeanF

iTrader: (1)

Just be aware, the clutch pedal can stick down when the bleed nipple is cracked open & even pulling the pedal back up does not sort it, The piston in the clutch master cylinder sticks to the bottom due to no back pressure. If this happens you will have to push the clutch lever arm (on the gearbox) the opposite way of normal travel, Hold it there (friend required) & bleed the system with it held like that for a few clutch depressions

Dean

911

Use Dot 5 brake fluid!!
911

drb5

iTrader: (4)

where is the bleed nipple exactly though?

jhdee

Don't get any fluid on the paintwork - unless you fancy a re-paint job

jhdee

911

you DO need some directions!
To make the above approach easy, remove the intercooler and this will expose the clutch slave and the nipple. It is bolted to the top of the box 'bell housing' quite close to the starter motor.
If you are very nimble handed you might be able to do the bleed job without removing the intercooler, but i can't do it!
Good luck,
911

Ian D

I bled my clutch the other week, can just about do it with the car on ramps and working under the car just on the left side of the gearbox. The bleed nipple/cylinder is just aft of the engine on top of the gearbox tunnel. As has been said the clutch pedal can stick down but on my car could just be pulled up during the bleeding...

Peanuts

iTrader: (15)

cheers everyone, got Jamie on his way round now to help and gonna give it a shot

Andy

Peanuts

iTrader: (15)

righty ho!
just got back in now from bleeding/changing the fluid.
removed the i/c no probs, flushed the system through till clear 5.1 fluid ran through the hose, had the problem with the clutch pedal sticking at the bottom due to no pressure.

finished up and found that the pedal travel starts way before the clutch engages, ie you have to depress the clutch about an inch or so before you start to engage the actual clutch, much more than before.
I know its a very technical description but can anyone shed anylight on it?

the clutch works well again and during a quick drive it was no hassle selecting the gears, there was no whining either which was nice...
in fact everything would be fandabydozy if I could just get the pedal to engage the clutch immediately rather than 25-30mm down the action.

I thought about taking the slack out on the pedal itself but then the pedal would sit much lower than the brake or accelerator pedals which would be ****.

big thanks to Jamie for coming round and doing all the hard parts

Andy

911

Sounds like there is still air in there.
a good trick is to remove the slave off the gearbox. pull the plunger pin out and the rubber boot too.
GENTLY PRESS THE PEDAL DOWN, GENTLY! and remove the piston.
Take out the coil spring and stretch it to about 60 mm free length. Put it back, and the piston and clamp the piston down deep into the cylinder.
Fully bleed the cylinder with the nipple pointing upwards. Air rises (!) and any bubbles will go to the nipple naturally.
Finish off buy replacing the bits, and I think the pedal will be to your liking!
Good luck,
911