Transitional Detonation
I ve tried the search function with only 2 posts showing,so i dont think its SIAL
Occasionally the car after running a constant throttle,press the acc to overtake,turbo boosts up then i get a brief flash of the Big Red,then single green up the rest of the rev range.The Afr flickers between green and blue
Is this,as i believe to be,Transitional Detonation?.When the ECU is switching from Closed loop fuelling to Open loop fuelling
Is this a problem?,the other posts only say that its "Uncontrollable and Unpredictable" by PAT
If it is a problem What can i do about it? As i said it is only occasionally,If i gun it round the back roads i only get 1 or 2 greens on the KL It only occurs when i go from old fart mode to young hooligan mode
Mods ............. MY 95 @ 20psi of boost
Walbro pump
FSE Adj regulator
K+N Air filter
HKS turbo back exhaust
PFR6B plugs
Zerosports ECU
Ran on Opti plus OB
Appreciate any help on this from the techy big guns
Cheers Grant
Occasionally the car after running a constant throttle,press the acc to overtake,turbo boosts up then i get a brief flash of the Big Red,then single green up the rest of the rev range.The Afr flickers between green and blue
Is this,as i believe to be,Transitional Detonation?.When the ECU is switching from Closed loop fuelling to Open loop fuelling
Is this a problem?,the other posts only say that its "Uncontrollable and Unpredictable" by PAT
If it is a problem What can i do about it? As i said it is only occasionally,If i gun it round the back roads i only get 1 or 2 greens on the KL It only occurs when i go from old fart mode to young hooligan mode
Mods ............. MY 95 @ 20psi of boost
Walbro pump
FSE Adj regulator
K+N Air filter
HKS turbo back exhaust
PFR6B plugs
Zerosports ECU
Ran on Opti plus OB
Appreciate any help on this from the techy big guns
Cheers Grant
Try renewing the lambda sensor - could be carbon build up (caused by under-reading lambda making closed loop fuelling too rich), leading to det when you first boot it.
A colder plug (7's instead of 6's) would likely be a good move too. Do you have oil in your intercooler? If so, add a catch tank to the list.
I don't know much about the Zerosports ECU; worst case (assuming waaay too advanced ignition) it could be causing your problem by switching back and forth between high and low det maps between cruise and wot.
Good luck, Richard
A colder plug (7's instead of 6's) would likely be a good move too. Do you have oil in your intercooler? If so, add a catch tank to the list.
I don't know much about the Zerosports ECU; worst case (assuming waaay too advanced ignition) it could be causing your problem by switching back and forth between high and low det maps between cruise and wot.
Good luck, Richard
I get the same thing on my MY98 WRX that also has a Zerosports ECU. I get the red light only in 4th gear when going from cruising to WOT at around 4k.
This is with Millers and Optimax. I dont seem to have any problems and I never get anything other than the green pair when koshing it.
What other Zerosports kit is on yours mate?
Ive got the up pipe and downpipe with freeflow cat.
This is with Millers and Optimax. I dont seem to have any problems and I never get anything other than the green pair when koshing it.
What other Zerosports kit is on yours mate?
Ive got the up pipe and downpipe with freeflow cat.
Its just the ECU which is Zerosports Im gonna try and borrow a 95 std ECU to see if theirs any change ........ 
Is transitional det for a fraction of a second a serious problem?
Cheers Grant

Is transitional det for a fraction of a second a serious problem?
Cheers Grant
The plug grade could prolly do with upping to PFR7's as the 6's may be causing pre-ignition running that amount of boost, also the zero-sports Chips do seem to run quite alot of ignition advance so this may also be a problematic area. Are you running a TMIC or FMIC?
Cheers
Cheers
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