buzzerboyroy

hiya,
after fitting a 2nd hand ecu on my 94 wrx import(my other ecu had a knock sensor fault),,i tested it the other day to find i am pushing out between 21lb/square inch to 26lb/square inch boost pressure.
now,, this sounds way to high to me considering i have no dawes device or bleed valve fitted.
i do have a full decat and a k&n filter but cant see these mods causing such high boost.

any ideas anybody ????

bigsinky

this is approximately twice as much boost as normal. i would be very careful here until the problem is sorted. 26 psi is nearly 1.8 bar which is way too much with these mods. i would be driving this car off boost until you get it looked at.

cheers

sinky

buzzerboyroy

yes i thought this to be honest,i am going to get it checked over today,,,,any ideas on what i would look for ?????


roy

bigsinky

boost solenoids, acctuator, waste gate control, ecu could be a number of things.

cheers

sinky

buzzerboyroy

mmmmm,
all looks ok exept a small split in the i/c pipe from the turbo to the i/c(the one thet has to be removed to get the i/c off).

would this cause it do you think???

The_Judge

Probably wouldn't help. You might want to also check the restrictor in the pipe between the turbo compressor and the "T" piece. Might need to have a larger diameter hole.

There's also obviously a fuel cut defender fitted somewhere. It could be mechanical, in which case it would be in the engine bay between the manifold and the MAP sensor, or electrical, in which case somewhere near the ECU. Or, worse still, the new ECU could have a superchip fitted...

What fuel are you using? Do you know if the new ECU you have fitted has been remapped at all? And is there a knocklink fitted to the car? The thought of 95RON UL, and 26psi boost on a Jap Import with a standard ECU mapped for Jap fuel... doesn't bear thinking about really.

buzzerboyroy

superchip,,,shudder !!!!

i hope not

unfortunately i dont know the ecu's past life,,it may have one ,,i dont know.
i will check tommorow ,,will i be able to reconize a superchip in the ecu ????

i am using super unleaded so no worries there

STE.W.

Without sounding too insulting......

Are you sure your gauge is correct?????

26 psi is massive.

I cant see how your engine and or gearbox would withstand that.

Also your car would be fast enough for top times at TOTB with that sort of boost.

Can you get hold of another boost gauge to clarify?

Not technical enough to point at anything else but you would have noticed a huge difference in performance between your old ecu and the new one. It would be motorbike fast at 26 psi.

Ste.

buzzerboyroy

ste,
yes its fast,, very fast in fact its the fastest scoob i have driven,,which worries me even more as i have driven some serious scoobs in the past,,and they have had some serious work done on them to make them fast.

i realy hope it is a simple thing like a knackered boost guage as i will be very happy with the speed its pushing,,but i am tending to lean towards a valve or something sticking ???

would a dawes device rectify my problem ????if so i will buy one for piece of mind.

i will try a different guage tommorow just to make sure .

cheers

roy

The_Judge

Personally, I'd be keeping my right foot off the throttle until you've sorted this out. If your boost gauge is OK, and it is boosting to 26psi, I'd bet my house that it's detting, particularly as you're only using SUL (albeit better than UL) without octane booster. If you had a knocklink, I think the red bulb would probably have exploded...

buzzerboyroy

boost guage is ok,,tested it last night at work.

cheers for the advice everyone,
but is there any other solutions i could look for,,,,

is it worth me buying a dawes device ?
or is it worth stripping down the ecu to see if it has a superchip fitted(will it be marked up??)
or has anyone had this problem before???

roy

The_Judge

A manual boost controller might help, assuming the reason for your boost is ECU or wategate solenoid controlled, and not a split pipe elsewhere (other than the one you've already mentioned).

STE.W.

Roy,

As before, I dont know enough about em to dare advise technical stuff but you could try swapping the ecu for another to see if thats where the problem is. If youve got a mate or know where you could beg and borrow one from just to see that would be my next step rather than looking at a circuit board trying to see if anything looks strange or broken.

What I cant understand is where is the overboost protection. In mine I'd have been thrown towards the screen at anything over 17 psi. So **** knows why you havnt got that to protect things either.

I thought it could have been a stuck shut wastegate button on malfunctioning actuator but the boost cut and severe overboost seem too related to me.

keep us informed on progress mate and as judge says keep off boost till youve got is sorted.

26 psi .......


Madness

The_Judge

If the new ECU has got a superchip fitted, doesn't that simply remove the fuel-cut...?

buzzerboyroy

chriiiiiiiiist !!!!!!!!!
upon opening the ecu i found not a normal ecu inside,,,have a look if you dare,,,,,


any ideas what a P S S ecu uprgade is ??????????????

roy

STE.W.

One that needs removing straight away mate!

from stuff that Ive read on here, if its jap then it wont be mapped for uk fueling and will fcul up the engine in no time.

Scot T, Dave Wallis and Pavlo (Paul) are the daddies at ecu remaps. They would be better people to be asking for help than low life trash like me

Have you got money / time and ability to fit monitoring eqpt to see whats going on??

I've got Dawes afr and knock link fitted to monitor my scooby ecu along with a boost gauge and dawes device. All is well but without the above gauges, I'd have been in the **** a couple of times during setting up

Its all well documented on here regarding the above ecu upgrade and monitoring eqpt.

Good luck mate.

Just thought.....

If you find the instructions for scooby ecu ,they mention cutting link J1.

Have a look under the silicon holding the upgrade board to the main board and there should be an orange colored resister that been snipped at J1. If its still there you could rejoin it with a blob of solder or solder a link to join the two contact points on the main board where it should have been.

If you do the above disconect the batery first and leave it off for a bit (20 mins from memory) this should reset the ecu.

Once the link has been reconected and the upgrade board has been removed you should be in a position to reconect the battery and go for a spin.

The car should be back to standard settings.

Thats what I can do on mine.

Ste.

buzzerboyroy

mmmm
cheers ste,,
i will have a look tommorow as i have to goto work in a bit,
i want to return it to standard as eventually i will have a gems fitted to it later in the year,but i want an engine left before i do that !!!

roy

Delboy2

Hello m8,
If you look at the piccy below J1 is located in this area but looking closely at the picture of your ecu J1 (looks like a brownish 1/4 watt resistor but is actually a wire link) looks as though it has been completely removed. This means you will have to re-solder the link back into place to use the factory map and of course remove the additional board.



The Ecu Error codes and reset procedure is HERE

Cheers

buzzerboyroy

delboy,,
yhm matey,,cheers

roy