calgonis

After reading the other thread on these I have a few questions before I decide to purchase the chip.

I have a 94 WRX RA (260bhp) HKS induction Kit, Partial Decat, Stainless Exhaust system (Think its HKS), uprated brakes/clutch. The boost gauge shows a smidgen under 1 bar on full pelt (about 14.5 p.s.i, I dont actually know what the standard boost level for my car should be but suspect that to be close to correct i.e. standard - someone may be able to enlighten me on this).

The scooby ECU chip info I got here

http://www.scoobyecu.co.uk/

says

"Target Boost level to approx. 14psi. Standard UK and early WRX run approx. 11.5psi peak."

Therefore I guess I would see no performance improvement or worse by fitting it to my Jap import as I would be effectively keeping the same boost level or reducing it?

However I figure I would get the benefit of (probably) smoother running and mapped for SUL as opposed to Optimax plus Octane booster?

Has/Can anyone request custom boost setting straight from the order and if so would 17psi be acceptable for my engine? more/less?

And finally has anyone done this conversion on the RA on the standard 14 p.s.i map or greater boost - and did they have and problems afterwards and any Rolling Road figures? before/after? faster/slower?

Am I looking in the wrong direction for performance mods for an RA?

Thanks for any info folks.

Andrew

EDIT: Name wrong thanks Jonny gav

jonny gav

iTrader: (1)

you can get a 16.5 psi version.

its a scoobyECU, it has nothing to do with scoobynet before the mods jump on you

Scott.T

iTrader: (2)

If it's a 94RA with the Radio Aerial on the 'A' pillar your target boost should be 11.47psi.

If it's a 94RA (95 Model) with the Radio Aerial on the rear wing then target boost should be 12.7psi.

If you are running more then that then it's either already been chipped or you have an dodge boost gauge.

If it was chipped in Japan then take it out and fit a ScoobyECU, which will be better mapped to UK fuel.

Most of the Jap chips that I have seen have just increased the boost and put far to much timing advance in the map for UK 97/98RON.

THOMO

CHANGE THE TUBE FROM THE TURBO TO THE BOOST SOLENOID TO A 7- 6MM INNER CORE IM RUNNING AT 15.5 SHOULD RAISE THE BOOST A LITTLE. I NOTICED THE DIFFRENCE.ITS PROBABLY 4-5 MM AT THE MOMENT.I HAVE THE SAME MODS AS YOU.

calgonis

Thanks for the replies.

It's got the radio Aerial on the 'A' pillar which makes it look more likely to be jap chipped/boosted and less likely to be the HKS boost gauge out because of the size of the descrepency.

Having said that I have looked up the chassis code before and its definately the 260ps version. I had it rolling roaded at the last Chelmsford Rolling Road day, and many thought the RR was down on the day approx (30bhp), I recorded 231.5 bhp on Optimax plus octane booster and therefore thought that was spot on for the stainless/decat/induction v less octane UK fuel even with booster v low rolling road readings. I also had a missfire on the day due to the set of spark plugs choosing a bad time to pack in (On the way to the RR).

I guess my options are.

Take ECU from car and open up to see if it's had the spare chip slot filled.
Head to a Xtreme and see if they can tell whether its been played with / boost check.
Do the next rolling road session and see what it records.

Scott.T

iTrader: (2)

The aerial moving from the A-pillar to the rear wing coincided with the upgrade from 240ps to 260ps.
Along with the standard wheels changing from 15inch grey and silver 5 spokes to 16inch 5-spokes. But like most I expect these have been changed

You will probably find your ECU is marked W9 (or maybe U8, W6 or 2C). All of which peak at 11.47psi.

The increase from 240ps to 260ps was from Sept 1994 onwards. Cars at this point had Z4, Z5 or 6K ECU's set to 12.7psi

calgonis

Thanks fo the replies so far.

Ok Ive just stripped the carpet out and removed the ECU protector plate to see a Z5 ECU staring back at me. Whether its been changed from production would be impossible to say.

I noticed a screw missing from the ecu protector plate so I havent been the first person under there

So my question is.. will a scooby ecu add-on fit in my current ECU or will I need to source a different ecu and if so what ECU model number am I looking for?

Cheers

Andrew

TopBanana

Best thing to do is to post up a pic of the circuit board if you can

Scott.T

iTrader: (2)

Z5 not a problem...I done a couple of those.

A Z5 is from a post Sept 1994 car but not a stock WRX (stock WRX is a Z4 from that period).
I think it may be from an RA or an STi of sorts (Well POC's 95/96 RA was a Z5, and went like stink.....)

Doh...just read the top of this post and it is from an RA, so my memory serves me correctly

If I was still doing them the a 16.5psi map could of been fitted.

It's not a bad ECU on it's own tho...one of the better ones.

P.S I think a Z5 may even have the socket already fitted (unlike the majority of WRX ECU), so you should be able to just plug the ScoobyECU/Chip in and remove the 'J1' link.

TopBanana

Mine now!

Pavlo

RA usually has a socket already.

Z5 I think is early RA 240ps version, although you can never tell with the early sti or RA versions!

Paul

Katana

A Z5 is for a post 94 type Ra I think. Thats what I took off from my car.

calgonis

Thanks again for the information especially scott.

Well the good news seems to be the change should be no more complex than a fit and snip job.

Now to get my hands on one

Cheers

Andrew

K9VYN

calgonis,

FYI - i have a Z4 ECU and intially had a Scoobyecu (to 16.42psi) from Scott.T (worked well, very smooth increased power delivery). Subsequently, I had a rebuilt engine after cooling issues with the former one and then a custom map by Pavlo on the Scoobyecu (reprogrammable chips this time) which produced some fantastic results (1.3 bar held) - like a totally different car.

This proved too much for a poorly built early WRX engine which died the day after making 295/264 @ Powerstaion. Now I have an STi II RA engine (still running in, so can't comment on long term performance/reliability). It runs fine, but once run in and serviced i will get the map tweaked accordingly as Scoobyclinic have also just fitted a APS FMIC.

The RA block (to 6/96) is closed deck with uprated heads/internals (afaik), so re boost levels, my 1.3 bar (18.85 psi) shouldn't be a problem with the new intercooler. I'm guessing you have the stock slanty intercooler??? Your engine will be strong, but can't really advise on the boost levels where the stock intercooler is retained - I'm guessing 17psi peak would be tolerated by your engine. Perhaps Pavlo/Scott can comment.

Kevin

Scott.T

iTrader: (2)

Check first about the socket before you get to excited. I do know that the Z5's that I done were all done by the owners i.e I didn't have to fit a socket to the ECU then send the ECU back in the post.

SO I am assuming the Z5 already has one fitted. I know a 7K has one which is an STi RA ECU from a similar period.

Scott.T

iTrader: (2)

K9VYN,

Why did PowerStation not detect anything was un-toward during the RR Shoot-out. If it was running lean/rich or detting they should of picked this up an aborted the run.

1.3BAR is alot, but maybe there were other factors contributing to the demise.

K9VYN

Scott,

I think I would have made over 300hp had PS not spotted that the car was detting (hats of to them for spotting it and advising). However, I think by that time (the build was 6.5 weeks old) the failure was pretty much imminent. Basically the last failure came off the back of 3 poor quality builds by a so called specialist.

See here.

The block was neither closed deck (original requirement), nor STi3 as advised , cylinder walls were badly corroded, bolts were missing and misplaced, conrods showed signs of high mileage wear, etc etc. So yes, in hindsight this engine wasn’t capable of running 1.3 bar. Recompense will be sought once the full engineers report has been completed.

In the meantime I'm looking forward to running in the new RA block and then checking/tweaking the map.

Kev

Postie

I had a look at my ECU which is a 2C ECU. My car is a 1994 WRX, is this a standard ECU for my car? and is it able to accept a scoobyecu chip? I am worried it will not be programmed to run on our fuel and cause engine damage

can I change the ecu for a different one off other models?

Im new to all this ECU business, so I need help!!

Thanks

Simon

Scott.T

iTrader: (2)

The 2C is a bit of an in-between ECU and falls between the early U8, W6 and the better Z4 ECU.

It has the performance maps from the earlier ECU, but the map locations of the later ECU. It has been found to be a bit querky and spikey in some cases, which is probably down to the code rather then the maps.
IMHO you would be better getting hold of a Z4, Z5 or 6K which run slightly higher boost then a 2C, W6 or U8 (i.e 260ps instead of 240ps) and have a much better fuel/ignition map, more suitable for UK fuel.

A ScoobyECU could then be fitted to any of these with better results, then if fitted to the 2C

taffy sparky

Hi I rescently had to change my wrx my93 turbo as it had split in it, so I bought a second hand wrx RA turbo from a 97/98 car which only had about 20,000 miles on it ( after someone rolled it ). Im no expert but would this turbo be running more boost than the old one as the car has a standard ECU, U8 on it. From what you are saying though this is pretty much a bog standard ecu, am I correct. Again if this is so, which ECU would be a better exchange for this turbo? and would it still pass all emmission tests. The chap I bought the turbo off sorted the car out for my mot last week and as he breaks broken scoobys as a hobby he might be able to get one which you might advise me on.. Any help would be appreciated. p.s what sort of price should one pay for a second hand ecu??

Chris from llanelli, s.wales

calgonis

UPDATE: I have one of your 15.5psi chips Scott heading out to me as I am buying one from az555, aparently its one of the Aus ones that you dispatched 70 of in October.

Will update thread when I fit it to my ECU to say how I got on.

Fingers crossed I havent got any slowly dying MAF problems that might surface as its the first time I will disconnected the battery and reset the ECU.

Hope the J1 resistor is well labled

These are the instructions im planning to follow: By Scott Taylor

Tool :
10mm Spanner
10mm Socket and ratchet
Philips Screwdriver

1. Disconnect the car battery
2. Remove the kickplate from beneath the carpet in the passenger footwell. The ECU will now be exposed.
3. Disconnect the 4 multiplugs from the ECU.
4. Remove the 2 nuts which hold the ECU in position.
5. With a fine tipped Philips screwdriver remove the 6 brass screws from the ECU top cover. Remove the lid.
6. You should now be able to see the spare IC socket on the ECU board.
7. Plug the ECU adapter into the spare socket and ensure all pins are located and the fit is tight to the socket.
8. Cut the 'Brown' vertically mounted resistor labelled 'J1'. DO NOT cut the resistor labelled 'L1'
9. Refit the ECU lid and refit the ECU.
10. Re-connect the Car Batter and start the vehicle to ensure correct running.
11. Enjoy….

If required at stage 8 above, wires can be solder to the cut resistor and run to a dash mounted switch. Thus enabling a 2-stage boost setting.

Scott.T

iTrader: (2)

If it's from someone called Ayaz Aslam then it should be suitable for a Z5 ECU.
It will be a 27C1028 Fujitsu chip, and not a ScoobyECU adaptor as seen on http://www.scoobyecu.co.uk. But the end result is the same.

calgonis

Hi Scott,

The model number is IMP-ECU-S2-V9
He thinks its compatible with all < 96 ECU's

Im buying it off the guy in this thread and not the person you metioned above.

http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/showthread.php?t=305122

I didnt actually realise any of the chips were a different fitment to each other.

Could you please confirm for me Scott that this one is compatible with my Z5 ECU.

Thanks

Andrew

Scott.T

iTrader: (2)

Yep, that'll be fine in a Z5...enjoy

jjm555

Is there such thing as a 2E ecu? Had a look at mine and that's all I can see which may relate to which version it si It's in a MY95 WRX.

John

Scott.T

iTrader: (2)

Personally I've not seen a 2E, but have seen the following :

U8, W6, 2C - WRX 92-94
1C, V5, V9, 3B - WRX Wagon(inc Auto)
W9 - WRX RA 93/94
SB - WRX STi
Z4 - WRX 95/96,
Z5, 6K - WRX RA 95/96
7K - WRX STi 2 RA
7D, 6D, V7 - Aus & Euro Turbo

jjm555

Scott,

Dunno if I'm looking in the right place for this code, the 2E bit is on the yellow plastic connector. Only got a pic of it at the mo so can't have a good look. By the way you provided me with a scoobyecu last Sept/Oct, sent you a pic of it then.

John

Scott.T

iTrader: (2)

John,

Looking at my records yours was the Zero Sports ECU that I supplied one of my maps for. The piccie you sent showed the Zero Sports chip (Jap mapped to 100RON) fitted and the chip label included 'Z4' in the part number.

This would indicate that yours is a Z4 ECU, which is the correct ECU for a 95 WRX.

The ECU should have a large label on the top cover, stating Z4 in big letters along with lots of small letters. But Zero Sports may of removed this.

The chip I supplied you is suitable for a Z4 and mapped to 15.5psi.

jjm555

Yes that's right, although there is a Zero Sports sticker on top of the casing...I seem to recall that I was supposed to send you the Zero Sports chip so you could have a look at it, think I forgot. I know you're not supplying the chips anymore but if you're still interested I could send it to you, I could do with knowing what map is on it as I will sell it if it's worth selling.

Scott.T

iTrader: (2)

I no longer have easy access to a programmer (see http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/showthrea...1&goto=newpost)

But I would still be interested in reading out the contents. If you want to send it to me I can get thje info out via an alternative means..it might just take a little longer tho'