uh oh- it might be serious..
31 January 2004, 05:24 PM
#1
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car is MY00, has link ECU (pat map), FMIC and all accompanying mods inc fuelling etc....
problem: car fires up - races to 3K (with no input from me on accelerator)then straight back to Orpm and it stalls.
ANY input from me and it still stalls.
fuel pump has STOPPED priming on ignition.
so; checked fuel pressure on guage from reg- not good at all.. dropping rapidly
I *think* I can hear the relay click before it fires up (lot of other cabin 'beeps' etc from clifford/door locks/etc..
I changed the pump- no change
(Walbro back to OE)
tried to get the ECU cover off to see if anything has blown on the board itself - I cant get the frigin case off!!!
the grub screws were done up so tight by the last person (not me!) that there is no posi' thread to bite into!!! ARRGH
I have a temp Main Fuse (80A) that DW made up for me (thanks again DW!) as ALL the local dealers are ***** and cant be bothered to get their fat overpaid ***** into gear and get me an OE 80a fuse in !!
Yes beechdale derby I mean you! [img]images/smilies/mad.gif[/img]
David's temporary fix still seems to be fine.. i think..
All other fuses appear to be fine.
gutted at the prospect of having to wait for the link to go to OZ, IF its been fried,to be fixed, and Im far up **** creek without a paddle really.
so for tonight - (freezing, dark and absolutely p1ssing it down) I have downed tools in frustration..
fooked off.
unfortunately my garage isnt big enough to work inside..
problem: car fires up - races to 3K (with no input from me on accelerator)then straight back to Orpm and it stalls.
ANY input from me and it still stalls.
fuel pump has STOPPED priming on ignition.
so; checked fuel pressure on guage from reg- not good at all.. dropping rapidly
I *think* I can hear the relay click before it fires up (lot of other cabin 'beeps' etc from clifford/door locks/etc..
I changed the pump- no change
(Walbro back to OE)tried to get the ECU cover off to see if anything has blown on the board itself - I cant get the frigin case off!!!
the grub screws were done up so tight by the last person (not me!) that there is no posi' thread to bite into!!! ARRGH
I have a temp Main Fuse (80A) that DW made up for me (thanks again DW!) as ALL the local dealers are ***** and cant be bothered to get their fat overpaid ***** into gear and get me an OE 80a fuse in !!
Yes beechdale derby I mean you! [img]images/smilies/mad.gif[/img]
David's temporary fix still seems to be fine.. i think..
All other fuses appear to be fine.
gutted at the prospect of having to wait for the link to go to OZ, IF its been fried,to be fixed, and Im far up **** creek without a paddle really.
so for tonight - (freezing, dark and absolutely p1ssing it down) I have downed tools in frustration..
fooked off.
unfortunately my garage isnt big enough to work inside..
31 January 2004, 05:55 PM
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If you have a spare std ECU, remove the plugs from the Link ecu and fit to a std ecu. Start the car with the std ecu in place and allow the car to heat up as normal (let the fans cut in).
Once that is done, refit the Link ECU and you'll find it should start as normal.
I suspect you will find your problem is the ISCV positioning. Starting the car with the std ecu will get it back into its correct position.
Do you have a tuning module?
Alan
[Edited by AlanG - 1/31/2004 5:56:37 PM]
Once that is done, refit the Link ECU and you'll find it should start as normal.
I suspect you will find your problem is the ISCV positioning. Starting the car with the std ecu will get it back into its correct position.
Do you have a tuning module?
Alan
[Edited by AlanG - 1/31/2004 5:56:37 PM]
31 January 2004, 06:16 PM
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If you have a spare std ECU, remove the plugs from the Link ecu and fit to a std ecu. Start the car with the std ecu in place and allow the car to heat up as normal (let the fans cut in).
BUT- if I can borrow one will do.
Once that is done, refit the Link ECU and you'll find it should start as normal.
I suspect you will find your problem is the ISCV positioning. Starting the car with the std ecu will get it back into its correct position.
Do you have a tuning module?
thanks Alan.
31 January 2004, 06:28 PM
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Yes!
Switch on ignition and on the tuning module press the up button on the far right of the module. Cursor up until you see the idle screen.
On here you will see a value in brackets and the idle rpm the car is set to on the right.
When the car is warm, the ecu tries to maintain a value of *60*
When the car is cold it can be in the mid 100's but don't be too concerned about the value.
If the value however is in the 200's i.e. 250ish, then you can find that starting is difficult.What this indicates is that the ISCV is out of position and when the car starts, the revs are all over the shop and dies when you try to press the accelerator. It also tries to die when you do nothing as well.
Using a std ecu for some reason brings everything back into their proper position, so use one to get the car warmed up a bit, then change back to the Link.
Another suggestion i was given was to unplug the ISCV and try and start the car but didn't need to since i had a spare ecu sitting there.
Alan
P.S> you also have mail
[Edited by AlanG - 1/31/2004 6:31:19 PM]
Switch on ignition and on the tuning module press the up button on the far right of the module. Cursor up until you see the idle screen.
On here you will see a value in brackets and the idle rpm the car is set to on the right.
When the car is warm, the ecu tries to maintain a value of *60*
When the car is cold it can be in the mid 100's but don't be too concerned about the value.
If the value however is in the 200's i.e. 250ish, then you can find that starting is difficult.What this indicates is that the ISCV is out of position and when the car starts, the revs are all over the shop and dies when you try to press the accelerator. It also tries to die when you do nothing as well.
Using a std ecu for some reason brings everything back into their proper position, so use one to get the car warmed up a bit, then change back to the Link.
Another suggestion i was given was to unplug the ISCV and try and start the car but didn't need to since i had a spare ecu sitting there.
Alan
P.S> you also have mail
[Edited by AlanG - 1/31/2004 6:31:19 PM]
31 January 2004, 07:19 PM
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Can anyone suggest ways of bringing the stepper motor on the ISCV back to its' default position without using a std ecu to do it?
Tried a suggestion of disconnecting the plug to the ISCV but made no difference in chromes case.
Alan
Tried a suggestion of disconnecting the plug to the ISCV but made no difference in chromes case.
Alan
31 January 2004, 07:57 PM
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Brad... I notice you tried selling your MAF earlier this month.
If you *did* manage to sell it, I have one you can use (if you need one with a standard ECU, that is!)
If you *did* manage to sell it, I have one you can use (if you need one with a standard ECU, that is!)
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31 January 2004, 08:04 PM
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hehe no- not sold it mate. I wanted a knackered one to replace the good one in the MAF pipe.
cheers anyway- you still in need of a MAF Burr?
cheers anyway- you still in need of a MAF Burr?
31 January 2004, 09:12 PM
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just to clarify- I dont use the MAf at all.. I have a LINK..
the MAF that I have is in the MAF pipe as thats the pipe that was to hand
LINK uses MAP sensor 
I just need an OE ECU to reset the ISCV..
hopefully- that will work and al will be good.. otherwise there will be tears on my part..
the MAF that I have is in the MAF pipe as thats the pipe that was to hand
LINK uses MAP sensor I just need an OE ECU to reset the ISCV..
hopefully- that will work and al will be good.. otherwise there will be tears on my part..
01 February 2004, 07:43 PM
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right. where to start..
swapped the fuel back again to the Walbro, replaced the faulty FSE reg, installed AE802, ran the car to reset the ICSV.
ok so far.
reconnected the link- turned the engine over- fuel pressure loss
3bar-0bar in less than 10 secs
double checked everything.
reconnected 802, ran fine (idle only)
finally rang pat in frustration: "check the dip switches Brad.."..
VOILA!! Eureka! It worked!!
bloody dip switches...
thanks to Sonic for bringing his 802 down to me!!
Cheers mate!
Bob- I will be in touch re: board/dip switches
(its a "Q" board btw)
very relieved- and again learn lots about the car and got hands on
swapped the fuel back again to the Walbro, replaced the faulty FSE reg, installed AE802, ran the car to reset the ICSV.
ok so far.
reconnected the link- turned the engine over- fuel pressure loss
3bar-0bar in less than 10 secs
double checked everything.
reconnected 802, ran fine (idle only)
finally rang pat in frustration: "check the dip switches Brad.."..
VOILA!! Eureka! It worked!!
bloody dip switches...
thanks to Sonic for bringing his 802 down to me!!
Cheers mate!Bob- I will be in touch re: board/dip switches
(its a "Q" board btw)
very relieved- and again learn lots about the car and got hands on
01 February 2004, 09:19 PM
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No probs mate, glad to have helped
May I add at this point, that the DIP switches were in the correct positions, just needed a damn good turning on & off to clean the contacts up !!
BTW your Car is very quick !! mine felt so slow driving home
Also would like to add thanks to Brad for the hospitality (food & coffee, and his daughter for being so cheeky, and making me laugh)
Steve
May I add at this point, that the DIP switches were in the correct positions, just needed a damn good turning on & off to clean the contacts up !!
BTW your Car is very quick !! mine felt so slow driving home
Also would like to add thanks to Brad for the hospitality (food & coffee, and his daughter for being so cheeky, and making me laugh)
Steve
03 February 2004, 12:32 PM
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still playing up.
going to try and see if the voltage from the pins for the the fuel pump relay is ok or not..
Also got hold of a spare crankshaft/cam sensor just in case (cheers JaseMac)
The fuel pump just isnt running with the link.. so must be somewhereon the board.. just a question of troubleshooting it..
meanwhile I am running a temporary 12V feed to the pump from the cabin fuse pocket (wipers) so the pump is always on with the ignition regardless of the link.
going to try and see if the voltage from the pins for the the fuel pump relay is ok or not..
Also got hold of a spare crankshaft/cam sensor just in case (cheers JaseMac)
The fuel pump just isnt running with the link.. so must be somewhereon the board.. just a question of troubleshooting it..
meanwhile I am running a temporary 12V feed to the pump from the cabin fuse pocket (wipers) so the pump is always on with the ignition regardless of the link.
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