What is involved with a re-map?
As stated above, I have a Legacy with the twin sequential turbo setup. I have only just picked up the car, and it has no history at all. I am running it on SUL, but would like to get it onto UL fairly soon. I can't be arsed fitting knock links and all the rest - I just want it sorted out so I don't have to worry about it.
Is that reasonable, or am I missing the point.
I am based in Hampshire.
Any help/suggestions much appreciated.
Cheers

[Edited by Huw - 12/14/2003 9:17:50 PM]

 

I hope you like SUL because your car sure will not like 95 normal unleaded in the slightest. DO not use unless you are desperate, regardless of what anyone else says to you. The car is mapped for 100RON jap fuel, so 97 is pushing it to be honest.

Remaps are few and far between, but it is possible.

Don't play with the boost unless you know what youare doing, primary turbo is easy to overspeed, especially with a decat pipe.

Paul

 

Good advice there from Paul.

Just upping boost without adjusting timing, fueling etc is a recipe for disaster with the TT engine. Not to mention the fact that they HATE poor fuel. And they are much harder to tune safely and effectively than the single turbos.

A good tuner will be able to map the car IMHO, just not many who have taken the time/trouble.

HTH

OT - Paul, are you doing them?

edit to add: take a look on yahoo groups for "legacyb4" to find a bunch of us owners...

[Edited by AJbaseBloke - 12/15/2003 2:27:34 AM]

 

Thanks for the advise. I am using SUL at the mo, but it would be nice to get it mapped to run on UL if it is possible!
I'm sure I could handle a slight decrease in power if that is what it takes - after all, the car has loads!
I will get onto the Yahoo site - cheers.

What mixtures do you run yours on?
And how do I tell if the engine has been damaged due to poor fueling?

Many thanks.

 

Oh - I have absolutly no plans to try to 'tune' it.
It is super fast as it is.
Cheers

 

I am sorry, but there is no easy fix, short of a reprogammed ECU.

Running 95 RON fuel will also rob you of around 20hp.

Your options ECU wise are much more expensive than running on 97 SUL for a year or two.

Paul

 

Thanks Paul
Will I do any/much damage on 97Ron?
Should I consider boosters, etc?

I've just got it and stories of blowing holes in pistons don't do my heart any favours
Any tips you can give me?
Thanks again for your responses.
Cheers
Huw

 

I think 97SUL will be okay, the difference between 97 and 95 is quite significant in terms of ignition timing.

Optimaex seems to be the best of the bunch, it's claimed to be 98.6, and has other long term benefits too it would seem, even if you fill up with a tank of brand X 97 ron fuel.

Best bet on legacy TT specific stuff will be on yahoo, or maybe on here if you wait a while.

Paul

 

Running on SUL should be OK, as Paul says. However, when the ambient temps are up the propensity for knock goes sky high. Because boost comes in lower in the rev range and quite quickly (among other things), it makes the engines very sensitive to fuel quality.

IMHO the knocklink is a no brainer for keeping your investment healthy. It doesn't stop knock, but because it tells you when it happens, you can get a handle on the pattern of situations when it can happen, therefore allowing you to drive around it/minimise it.

Personally I would use booster, but that's just me. Keeping it fed with the good juice is the way to go at the very least IMHO. I've had a wally at a servo (they are still full service here in the main) whack me with a tank of NUL and the car ran like a dog (cue large amounts of booster, gentle driving and quite a few stops for 5 litre tops ups with 100 ).

Also, the other usual basics should be followed like: check the oil regularly and change it often if you hammer it.

See you on the TT list.

Cheers

 

Ooops - forgot to include that people are remapping their JDM cars even for 97/98RON (mostly Imprezas until ECUTEK finish their B4 stuff, even then some of the older cars may not be covered). And it is not just for power... Although I bet no one is complaining when they get more

BTW, even with a remap, when the intercooler gets roasted in summer traffic and you hammer it the car (obviously) can still knock severely even with a tune for UK fuel.

 

I've always used Optimax in my 1996 Legacy GT-B, and have had no problems with pinking.

Also Optimax is readily available, and usually costs about 79.9p a litre (more on motorways, often less in city centres). The only think with Optimax is not to let it sit in the tank for weeks on end, as it's octane rating does go down fairly rapidly (all petrol does, but Optimax seems to go down faster than most). But then, the twin turbo Legacy uses fuel fast enough for that not to be too much of a worry most of the time!

Like has been said above - the extra couple of pence per litre you'd spend on Super or Optimax over a couple of years will cost you a lot less money than you'd spend getting the ECU remapped.

Rich.

 

Optimax or SUL with booster it is then - many thanks.
Now I can put my lead right boot on with confidence!
Cheers

 

Optimax or SUL with booster it is then - many thanks.
Now I can put my lead right boot on with confidence!

Do any of you guys have a Legacy GT service manual or/and owners manual I can get a copy of? I got nothing
Cheers

 

Huw,

There is a company that does them in the UK. Best to ask on the legacyb4 group IMHO, although you may well get that info on here.

Cheers

 

Thanks
I am now registered for the Yahoo forums (took a while for some reason) so I will ask there.
Thanks again.
Huw

 

Any one here know, is front and rear brake pads for legacy b4 rsk year 2000 same as imperza turbo or sti?What about part numbers Such as mintex or ebc brake pads?Its front disc 295mm and 4 pots or 2 pots?Thank You .Peter.

 

#1 m8, do as Huw did and get on the legacyb4 group @ yahoo.

In short - if you can live with them, the front pads are the same shape as the H6 Outback's - 2 pots that is. NOTE: Outback pads are not as high perf as std RSK spec stuff, and have been known to fade rather quickly when pushed hard. Perhaps ask other makers if they have that pattern in an upgraded material?

BTW, many cars in Japan get the 4 pots done to them - they'll be obvious coz they are opposed piston jobs with a big Subaru written down the side, where as the std 2 pots are of floating design (pistons only on the back).

The rears are the same 1 pot floating design as used on many other turbo scoobs. I bet UK members on here or on the yahoo group will be able to help more.

HTH

 

Huw, forgot to suggest checking all fluids - if any look at all old get them changed pronto. Bad or very old oil will do nasty things. All the other usual things apply to these cars: old, poor brake fluid won't help, gear box and diff oils when replaced can make a surprising difference to the performance of the car in all aspects (esp older ones).

Also, earthing can smooth things out, and help the stereo sound better

HTH

 

Aj,

You listen to the stereo?

Mark

 

yeah but surely if you use just optimax or sul without booster a remap is better and gives more peace of mind and will reduce the risk of piston melt down?

 

yeah but surely if you use just optimax or sul without booster a remap is better and gives more peace of mind and will reduce the risk of piston melt down?
oh and is optimax not 98ron and sul 97ron?

 

I have a 2001 GTB about to be remapped by ECUTEK
Have done around 15K on 97ron - seems OK
great drive - the higher the speeds the more responsive
Happy to cruise at 140-150!!! but drinks like mad

 

got a good owners manual from a New Zealand tech book shop on-line
I think it was jpnz.com or similar
Here in a week for £20ish

 

Have you got the right address cos a 'something like' address is no good to anyone?