Syxx - Pac

hi all, ive got up to 150 to spend on a dump valve which one do you suggest?? are bailey DV's any good?
Also is there an advantage of getting an aftermarket one other than the whoosh noise?

CHEERS

PeterUK300

iTrader: (1)

For £150 it is either a Forge or a Bailey's.

Choice is yours. Both very similar.

Forge would be my choice

7 Foot

When I was having my ECU re-mapped I was advised to lose the Forge VTA dump valve and put the standard re-circ back on.

I did.


Moral of story: spend your money on something else. Use the search function and read all the rows about quicker spool up, flames etc.

My car ran better with the standard item on it.

Dark Blue Mark

Agreed, after buying and selling a few, the car doesnt run like it should, and any passengers automatically assume you're a bell end, or your car has a serious cold

MB

babber

I've had both the Forge VTA and the HKS Super SQV on my MY99. I also run a John Banks Tek 2.5 ECU, with a K and N 57i induction kit. Idle, etc has been fine with both models. Had the Forge first, but wanted something a little noisier HKS is a lovely sound and now I get pop backs on demand. Great for frightening old grannies, etc Think the fuel economy has suffered, but it probably me changing my driving style

I did put the OEM DV back on when I had a leak on the HKS, but the car sounded awful IMHO. DV won't make the car quicker, but is well worth it for entertainment valve

Phill

RICH WILD

What about the range of MRT dumpvalves on

www.jap-innovations.co.uk

They do VTA, recirc and hybrid which covers every possible option.

A VTA dumpvalve will only cause your car to run badly if:

a) it is installed wrongly or badly
b) it has the wrong spring or spring tension
c) it is broken
d) it is a crap 50p effort

Rich

EddScott

So fitting a HKS SQV won't harm my engine? I used to have one on my GTIR and although it dropped economy it sounded great. I've avoided fitting a VTA to my scoob as I've heard more people saying they are bad for scoob engines.

If Babber's is OK does that mean his re-map has helped any problems? Also running an induction kit? another source of should I/Shouldn't I.

Mad Hammer

iTrader: (55)

I have a bailey twin piston which has not caused a problem since I fitted in January. Cost about £120. I reckon at higher revs (over 4000) it works much better than the standard. Although at lower revs below 3000 I sometimes get slight hesitation between gear changes, but it's worth it for the noise !

babber

A Forge and a HKS are both ok on a standard car!! I mentioned it as I'm running higher boost (17.4 PSi target boost) and still both valves are ok with this. I had a remap as I wanted to run higher boost and better timing than the pants PPP.

I have used a K and N 57i induction kit, as it's the only one a certain person recommends and is safe on a MY 99 / 00, and won't contaiminate the MAF.

Hope this helps, Phill

PS The HKS Super is the dogs, IMHO

7 Foot

Rich

Mine had a distinct jerk on lift off with my VTA fitted, which cost a lot more than 50p, was tried with both the red and blue springs (no, not at the same time ), was fitted by TSL and wasn't broken.

greasemonkey

As stated above, spend your £150 on something that will actually improve the car. Wasting it on something that is only designed to scare old people seems a bit of a waste IMO.

Dark Blue Mark

Get a dawes and a boost gauge

MB

RICH WILD

7 foot,

Must be the way you drive then

Agree with greasemonkey, spend your £ on something that enhances the car first. Dumpvalves are just costume jewellery.

Rich