AFR gauge
01 September 2003, 08:20 AM
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You share the OE one. The impedance on the Dawes/Link etc. gauges is very high so it doesn't (as long as you wire it up right!) upset the voltage the ECU sees.
01 September 2003, 03:21 PM
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The standard one is narrowband - it's effectively a switch that flicks back & forth over the stoichometric point (14.7:1) and therefore can feed this information back to the ECU for correct mixture (for a cat, anyway 
). It can be used for a slightly wider AFR readings than 14.7:1, but isn't very accurate, isn't linear & the range is only really 11:1 to 15:1 (and that rather vague!). Very vaguely £50 for the sensor, and it simply generates its own current (which is then read). Basically, a single wire, although there can be up to four (signal, signal ground, heater current, heater ground).
Wideband is considerably more complex & uses a different type of sensor, and some electronics that control it. The sensors are £50 (if you're lucky) up to £250, and the control box £300 for a DIY, £1,000+ if you go for a 'brand name' type thing. But, it should accurately give AFR between 9:1 & 30:1 (or thereabouts), typically in a linear readout, and is therefore much better for setting a car up, but usually can't be used with a 'standard' ECU without additional electronics to 'fake' a narrowband (at which point you could say it's a bit pointless).
I think that covers most stuff?
). It can be used for a slightly wider AFR readings than 14.7:1, but isn't very accurate, isn't linear & the range is only really 11:1 to 15:1 (and that rather vague!). Very vaguely £50 for the sensor, and it simply generates its own current (which is then read). Basically, a single wire, although there can be up to four (signal, signal ground, heater current, heater ground).Wideband is considerably more complex & uses a different type of sensor, and some electronics that control it. The sensors are £50 (if you're lucky) up to £250, and the control box £300 for a DIY, £1,000+ if you go for a 'brand name' type thing. But, it should accurately give AFR between 9:1 & 30:1 (or thereabouts), typically in a linear readout, and is therefore much better for setting a car up, but usually can't be used with a 'standard' ECU without additional electronics to 'fake' a narrowband (at which point you could say it's a bit pointless
).I think that covers most stuff?
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