Help! Fitting full Scooby Sport Exhaust
#1
Hi to all you experts out there (especially Pete C. if you have time)
I have managed to get hold of a full brand new ScoobySport system from a friend who decided he's overspent and needs to raise some cash (lucky me!)
I am going to fit it this weekend to my '02 WRX and am going to go full system from the turbo back. (It's the Janspeed system and I've also got a CEL fix to put on) It includes the upipe but, to be honest it scares me thinking about fitting it after reading the guide on ScoobyMods. I shall post this for sale later in the week.
I am fairly mechanically minded person and not concerned about fitting the exhaust but would appreciate any advice. I have had a read through past posts and am now a bit confused about heatshields.
Do I just fit the Scooby Sport system as is or do I have to retain any of the heatshields?
Do I need to use any different exhaust gaskets on retain the original ones?
Is there anything else I am going to need for the job as from experience you only find out when it's all in bits?
I would appreciate any pointers as I don't want to have to tell the RAC man "the wife did it" if it all goes wrong!
Cheers
Matt
I have managed to get hold of a full brand new ScoobySport system from a friend who decided he's overspent and needs to raise some cash (lucky me!)
I am going to fit it this weekend to my '02 WRX and am going to go full system from the turbo back. (It's the Janspeed system and I've also got a CEL fix to put on) It includes the upipe but, to be honest it scares me thinking about fitting it after reading the guide on ScoobyMods. I shall post this for sale later in the week.
I am fairly mechanically minded person and not concerned about fitting the exhaust but would appreciate any advice. I have had a read through past posts and am now a bit confused about heatshields.
Do I just fit the Scooby Sport system as is or do I have to retain any of the heatshields?
Do I need to use any different exhaust gaskets on retain the original ones?
Is there anything else I am going to need for the job as from experience you only find out when it's all in bits?
I would appreciate any pointers as I don't want to have to tell the RAC man "the wife did it" if it all goes wrong!
Cheers
Matt
#2
No one else wants to answer so I will try to help you.
I presume the downpipe is de-catted, it is worth wrapping it with the 2" heatwrap made of glassfibre weave. You need about 10 metres. This makes up for the lack of heatshields which are on your original downpipe and makes the exhaust quieter and more pleasant in the car. You can also leave the lower heatshields around the turbo off if you have wrapped the pipe,you don't actually have to remove the lower one to get the downpipe off though, but dont bin the one on top of the turbo.
The nuts which hold it to the turbo are likely to be very tight so before you do the job give them a few soakings in WD40. It is worth getting a straight sided socket (14mm) rather than the multi faceted one because this is less likely to take the corners off the nuts. Dont forget to use new gaskets. You will need a good shifting wrench for the socket.
There are two bolts with springs on which hold the joint from the centre pipe to the downpipe together. It is worth being careful with these since one end has a reduced diameter and they can break if a bit rusty-use plenty of WD40 and maybe even get a couple of spares before you start.
Apart from getting the nuts undone it is not a complicated job. Hope this is of help to you.
Les
I presume the downpipe is de-catted, it is worth wrapping it with the 2" heatwrap made of glassfibre weave. You need about 10 metres. This makes up for the lack of heatshields which are on your original downpipe and makes the exhaust quieter and more pleasant in the car. You can also leave the lower heatshields around the turbo off if you have wrapped the pipe,you don't actually have to remove the lower one to get the downpipe off though, but dont bin the one on top of the turbo.
The nuts which hold it to the turbo are likely to be very tight so before you do the job give them a few soakings in WD40. It is worth getting a straight sided socket (14mm) rather than the multi faceted one because this is less likely to take the corners off the nuts. Dont forget to use new gaskets. You will need a good shifting wrench for the socket.
There are two bolts with springs on which hold the joint from the centre pipe to the downpipe together. It is worth being careful with these since one end has a reduced diameter and they can break if a bit rusty-use plenty of WD40 and maybe even get a couple of spares before you start.
Apart from getting the nuts undone it is not a complicated job. Hope this is of help to you.
Les
#4
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Dude, do not go to Subaru for the bolts, you could probably get them from B&Q or something, I picked up 4 bolts from Subaru when I picked up an oil filter and they charged £1.08+VAT Per bolt.... nearly passed out man...!
The zorst should come with gaskets and what not so just use them, only buy some more if they are trashed, I didn't have to replace any when I did mine.
The only thing I would say you have to be careful of, is the DP, the thread is REAAAAAAAALLY fine on the Turbo studs and cross threads Very easily, We had all sorts of fun trying to Hammer and Chiss a cross threaded bolt off!!!!
I would love to be able to help you with up pipe info but not changed one, all I can guess is that the new one goes on exactly the same way the old one came off, make sure if you can put the heat shields back on that you put them on properly and very tight or you'll get a 'orrible rattle that will do your nut! (trust me I have one at the mo )
The zorst should come with gaskets and what not so just use them, only buy some more if they are trashed, I didn't have to replace any when I did mine.
The only thing I would say you have to be careful of, is the DP, the thread is REAAAAAAAALLY fine on the Turbo studs and cross threads Very easily, We had all sorts of fun trying to Hammer and Chiss a cross threaded bolt off!!!!
I would love to be able to help you with up pipe info but not changed one, all I can guess is that the new one goes on exactly the same way the old one came off, make sure if you can put the heat shields back on that you put them on properly and very tight or you'll get a 'orrible rattle that will do your nut! (trust me I have one at the mo )
#6
Buy a 10mm and 14mm ratchet spanner before you start, some of the bolts on the heat sheild (10mm) and one of the ones on turbo end of the down pipe (14mm) are hard to get to with a socket, I also found removing the Intercooler helped as well.
Andy
Andy
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