supna

Well

I just bought a 94 Legacy GT 2.0 Twin stage turbo. It occasionally flicks on the Check engine light and stays on and puts the car into like a safe mode not allowing it to rev over 3K revs. If I disconnect the battery and reconnect (Reset ECU) it clears and is fine again. It has just been serviced about a month ago by the previous owner. Does this sound like the wastegate problem with the oil level being too full. I also thought it could be the MAF sensor as I beleive this are renowned for packing up? BTW its an Auto and makes no strange noises and drives great until this light comes on. It does have a pipercross filter fitted to it instead of the standard airbox.

Thanks

David

GTB Limited

David,

You need to dig the codes out of the ECU.

twin turbo subaru site

Above site gives all the info.

Then you can work on the problem.

Another site of interest is 'legacyb4' on yahoo groups, a dedicated TT site

HTH

Mark

supna

What a star, just what I was looking for. I have joined the yahoo group but still waiting for conformation email

David

pch

David;

Lots of posts on Yahoo/LegacyB4 forum re the dreaded E66 error code, unfortunatley this is a catchall code & just says twin turbo system not working as it should. My 94 GT auto wagon also suffered, but I have replaced the exhaust recently and so far no more "limp" mode. ECU should reset out of limp mode merely by switching off & on again.

Us Legacy twin turbo lot need to stick together, as what works on an Iimpreza, aint neccessarily right for a twin turbo.

Good Luck!! Paul

supna

pch

Did you have the 'limp' problem (ooer missus) often until you change the zorst. Does yours have an induction filter fitted to it. Is this the reason why it keeps going limp? I can drive for 10 miles and it will do it or I can drive for 60 miles then it will do it. Also my wastegate (I think it comes from the wastegate) makes a flutter noise on releasing the accelerator quickly, is this normal. I guess it sounds like a HKS BOV.

AJbaseBloke

Your air flow sensor is a hot wire type, so not as prone to premature death as the later hot wire type...although oil/dirt from poor or iffy induction set ups can kill them stone dead (on the other hand, some people use them for years with no problems whatsoever). If it is damaged your idle will get sloppy

A collapsing cat can cause boost issues, as can the pathetic placky BOV, dirty vaccum pipes, clogged air filter, etc etc. Also, it is a good idea to do the earth mod on the older cars as it can clean up some of the signalling...which reminds me we need to update the earthing info with the newest info...

We await you on the yahoo group In anticipation, "Welcome aboard."

pch

David;

Yes, it would regularly cut & go into limp mode when trying to welly the poor beast, so I had got into the habit of not driving it very hard & generally feeling unsatisfied with the car, but the change of exhaust & front CV joints means it feels like a new car again. I would'nt know what a HKS BOV sounds like & with the new exhaust it is not the quietest of engines, but just sounds healthy with the typical (I am told) Legacy Turbo whistle as the revs change. From comments on my posts I feel that the cat or exhaust were probably causing my problems as it had definitley got worse over time.

Paul!!